Mobil 1 for Wheel Bearings?

[harriw]

Hey folks,

Confirmed tonight my wheel wobble is bearings, not ball joints. Any reason I shouldn't use the Mobil 1 Synthetic grease for the (front) wheel bearings on my '94 4x4 (4.0 w/ Dana 35)? I was in the store, and hadn't checked to see what I should be using. They had the valvoline "for Ford/Lincoln/Mercury" too as well as the Valvoline synthetic blend, but I figured I'd spring for the good stuff - hoping I won't have to do this again any time soon.

I assume I'll have to thoroughly clean out whatever grease is on the bearings now before putting synthetic in them, right (unless of course I just replace them)?

Thanks!

-Bill

 

[Shran]

It will be fine, just use whatever. I use the red high temp stuff of any brand. If you are worried about quality of grease just repack them more often but it really doesn't matter.

and yes you need to clean out the old stuff.

 

[harriw]

Great, sounds good. Looks like they're cheap enough I'll probably just replace them. Now I gotta go learn how to pack bearings...

Thanks guys!

-Bill

 

[OHmazda4x4]

Im doing the same thing to my truck this morning (new bearings), ive never heard of any special grease for wheel bearings, i use some pretty genaric wheel bearing grease and it always seems to do the trick. Just pack'em FULL ! Like Shran said if you get worried about the quality of your grease just re-pack them more often. Thats the one flaw of these trucks, get used to replacing wheel bearings and re-packing them often if you do alot of off-roading and driving through high water/mud. Good Luck with the fix.

 

[harriw]

Hey guys,

Is this the same stuff I should be pumping into the ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. too? Or is there another type of grease you should use there?

I'm thinking of returning the tub I got and finally getting myself a grease gun and a cartridge or two. Anyone got any advice on what type works best? Air driven? Mechanical? Pistol grip? I do have a nice compressor, but I'm not sure I want to have to fire it up every time I want to shoot a little grease. How well does the snap-lock end work? Does it fasten onto the zerks well on its own, or do you have to hold it on there to keep the grease from leaking out before it gets into the zerk?

Also, do you have to clean out the flex tube each time you use it, or do you just wipe the tip and put it away? I had a small "aerosol" based can of grease I used on my tractor for years, but it just ran out, and I'm thinking I ought to go get the real thing.

Thanks!

-Bill

 

[warrior24]

I have the lucas grease gun from homedepot and it works great.

 

[triumphrider-1]

Hey guys,

Is this the same stuff I should be pumping into the ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. too? Or is there another type of grease you should use there?

I'm thinking of returning the tub I got and finally getting myself a grease gun and a cartridge or two. Anyone got any advice on what type works best? Air driven? Mechanical? Pistol grip? I do have a nice compressor, but I'm not sure I want to have to fire it up every time I want to shoot a little grease. How well does the snap-lock end work? Does it fasten onto the zerks well on its own, or do you have to hold it on there to keep the grease from leaking out before it gets into the zerk?

Also, do you have to clean out the flex tube each time you use it, or do you just wipe the tip and put it away? I had a small "aerosol" based can of grease I used on my tractor for years, but it just ran out, and I'm thinking I ought to go get the real thing.

Thanks!

-Bill

I have the mechanical lever style, works fine for me. I haven't had an issue with it not sticking to a zerk, but I do hold it once in a while if I don't think it locked on.

I do not clean the tube, just wipe the end and put away.

You may also want to get the bearing packing tool as well, it'll make packing them a lot easier and less messy. One of these:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...yDisplayName=SpecialtyTools&_requestid=442804

 

[OilPatch197]

I cannot justify the cost of synthetic for wheel bearings.

I really do not see the advantages in that application.

 

[flyingbrick]

I have the mechanical lever style, works fine for me. I haven't had an issue with it not sticking to a zerk, but I do hold it once in a while if I don't think it locked on.

I do not clean the tube, just wipe the end and put away.

You may also want to get the bearing packing tool as well, it'll make packing them a lot easier and less messy. One of these:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...yDisplayName=SpecialtyTools&_requestid=442804

I have a 30 Year old pistol grip grease gun, Don't waist your money on a barring packer they never seem to do the job i can do by hand, yes it takes 20 times longer but i know my barring wont seize or fail.

 

[OilPatch197]

the "bearing packer" you need is the GOOD type, the link above the previous post is the shitty type.

THIS is what you need, link: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-34550-Handy-Packer-Bearing/dp/B0002NYDYO?tag=959media-20

I got one, works great, prevents waste and keeps the grease clean.

 

[harriw]

Thanks for the info guys - I'll start shopping around for a mechanical gun. Is the "squeeze" pressure needed for the pistol grip type significantly more (or less) than for the lever type? About comparable to a caulk gun? Interesting thought - I've got a few caulk guns already - does anybody make caulk tubes with build-in nozzles filled with automotive grease?

Thanks!

-Bill

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

I find the pistol grip ones much easier to operate. You need 3 arms to use the big lever style ones.

 

[AllanD]

The Ford rated grease usually has Molybdenium Di-sulfide in it

Personally I use a marine grade grease as they resist being washed off.

What specific grease? well since I can no longer find the Quaker state green marine synthetic grease (or anyone who won't give me a blank look for asking about it)
I switched to "Green Grease", which is also a full synthetic grease, it is not merely
water resistant, it is rated for saltwater immersion.

I left a glob of the stuff out on a piece of cardboard from september to april,
other than collecting leaves dead bugs and pine needles the stuff was entirely unaffected by being out exposed all winter long...

I expect and trust the stuff to stay where I put it.
and stay there until I remove it...

AD

 

[88orangeandblack]

The Ford rated grease usually has Molybdenium Di-sulfide in it

Personally I use a marine grade grease as they resist being washed off.

What specific grease? well since I can no longer find the Quaker state green marine synthetic grease (or anyone who won't give me a blank look for asking about it)
I switched to "Green Grease", which is also a full synthetic grease, it is not merely
water resistant, it is rated for saltwater immersion.

I left a glob of the stuff out on a piece of cardboard from september to april,
other than collecting leaves dead bugs and pine needles the stuff was entirely unaffected by being out exposed all winter long...

I expect and trust the stuff to stay where I put it.
and stay there until I remove it...

AD

I totally agree +++++

 

[modelageek]

You want to make sure you use a high tempature grease if you have disk brakes. You cant use reguler old grease that might be in your gun for hitting frontend parts.must be hightemp. there are some great vids on youtube of how to do the work