Mazda B2300 sludge - need some help!

[Mark_88]

I don't use the synthetic oil...just regular oil...and if you want to use either in a heavier format I'd say it might help some...the oil leak can be a problem either way though...and if it is the valve cover I'd recommend the blue rubber valve cover gasket as opposed to the cork...a bit more expensive but I think it is worth the extra expense...

I used the Rotella Diesel but recently switched to Castrol Xtection 10w40 (sp) diesel oil and have had slightly better results...meaning the smoke has almost disappeared with startup...

The smoke that I was referring to was not actual smoke from the tailpipe but more like a steam from the valve cover vents and through the PCV...I had it vented to a catch can and run back through the breather (carbed application) as well as through another smaller oil/air filter...

But, anyway...there was/is a blow-by problem with my engine...as well as valve seals...and I'm in the process of swapping heads...did discover quite a bit of carbon on the pistons...so I might try the seafoam once I get it running again...just a bit reluctant to do anything like that...

 

[b23]

Maf p0102

I am having a new problem now: P0102. Related to MAF, but I just put a new MAF on! When I say new I mean used, from a 1996 Ford Windstar, but as soon as I installed it it drove much, MUCH better. No more stumbling, stuttering, or bucking on deceleration. Reset code with battery unplugged, CEL came back. Reset code with OBD scanner, CEL came back.

I have an exhaust leak, could that be related? I have sorted out all the vacuum leaks to my knowledge, though the plastic boot behind the intake looks cracked, maybe air is leaking in through there tripping the light?

Could it be the car's main computer? I think they are called ICM on this car?



I think I will be trying diesel when I change oil today, 10w40 Castrol Xtection as above poster stated.

But, anyway...there was/is a blow-by problem with my engine...as well as valve seals...and I'm in the process of swapping heads...did discover quite a bit of carbon on the pistons...so I might try the seafoam once I get it running again...just a bit reluctant to do anything like that...

I will say I have used Seafoam on just about every car I have owned (except cars I bought new or otherwise low-mile). I would not use it on a car under around 100K miles if it had been taken care of simply because it does not need it. But I have never damaged a car using Seafoam or even heard of a car damaged by the stuff. If you think your car needs it, do it. It has helped me a lot in the past.

I am daily driving this truck right now, she drives well over all and now with the new MAF is drinking a LOT less gas which is what I was expecting and hoping for. I was about to get about 200-250 miles out of a tank of all highway driving but new MAF is putting me at a solid 250 out of this tank and should be about 300-350 from a full tank.

 

[96fordranger]

the reason i use 15-40 rotella in my 300 inline 6 is the new oils dont have the zinc content that older engines require i dont run it in newer cars.

to the op you said it bogs down coming to a stop could you have a master cylender going bad causing a vaccum leak?

i mean brak boster

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The oil pressure gauge should not move. It does not indicate actual pressure, it is connected to a simple on/off switch like that used to operate a red light. The circuit goes thru a resistor in the printed circuit on the back of the instrument cluster that "holds" the gauge in the position you are seeing it in. It may move slightly due to changes in voltage, but it will not move up or down with engine speed, etc, as there is no pressure transmitter, just the switch.

This is true of all Ford trucks, big and small, made for the past 20 years or more.

***

As far as the bogging, poor performance, try a tank full of premium gas. My '91 2.3L will not run on anything but premium and it runs noticeably better on BP/Amoco Ultimate. I tried for a while after I bought the truck in 2000 to run it on regular and after fueling it with premium, I gave up on regular.

***

My '91 2.3L has 273,000+ mi on it and has been run since about 19,000 mi on Amsoil 10w-30 with 10k mi oil changes with the filter also changed in between at 5K. Truck has always used some oil as it was 9 yo and 18,500 mi on it when I bought it and I'm sure the cylinders were pitted. Oil consumption is about a quart in 5000 mi. (so I add two at the filter change.)

Charles

 

[PetesPonies]

Whereas an electrical pressure gauge is not as responsive as a mechanical gauge, it does show varying pressures. We are not talking about an idiot light. The gauges get a constant voltage, however the resistance is varied by the switches to control the gauge. When a pre-specified pressure is applied to the switch, it will cause the gauge needle to go to its pre determined location, yes. And more pressure will not make it go any higher, yes. But lower pressure will cause the gauge to read lower than it's normal location, yes it will.
Now gasoline and premium types. We are talking about the resistance to burning. That is what octane gives you. No more BTU, no difference. Only the resistance to burning. Thus higher octane fuel is needed in engines where compression and combustion pressures will cause the lower grade fuel to burn on it's own. Again, there is no difference in the BTU that the fuel brings. If you engine does not have detonation or preignition issues with regular fuel, you will gain nothing from using higher octane, nothing. Unless you mean a lighter wallet. Now it is possible for a gas company to put whatever additives they like in the fuel, cleaners and such. But nothing is different in the way the fuel makes power. The only time when this may be challenged is when an engine (computer control ) has the ability to adjust timing to achieve more power or duel economy. We call this efficiency. So if there is a knock sensor and the computer can varies the advance . . then higher octane will allow the computer to put more advance into the ignition system. But, it's not the fuel making more power, but the advance is allowing the spark to be more efficient. And "thems" are the facts folks.