I recently did a manual swap on my 97 ranger and now it won't start with the key. I can start it by touching the starter wires but not when I turn the key. is there any way to bypass the neutral safety?
I think we need more information...such as: Did you swap over the computer and wiring harnesses for the manual? This would include the harness under the dash as there is a clutch interlock switch that needs to be bypassed...
You might be able to jump the neutral safety on the old harness but not sure what that might entail as far as other operating issues...and not sure if the PATS has anything like fuel pump shut off and other anti-theft features that might also affect starting and driving...someone with more experience with that could probably elaborate on it for you or you could search on PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) for Ford vehicles...
I don't have that on my 96 or I would have already reviewed it for you and could tell you more...I'm dealing with the clutch interlock on mine and I can tell you how to jumper that...but I don't even know if you have the switch...
Thanks for the replies. Yes I changed the engine computer but did not take thE harness under the dash. And I'm pretty sure it doesn't have a pats system. The engine computer is out of a 95 manual
OK, well, I think that is part of your problem. The computer needs to be told the circuit is complete...if it doesn't get that signal the ignition is simply shut down or not activated...
You can try what Adsm08 suggested if you still have that harness hooked up...I'd imagine the 95 computer would be looking for the clutch interlock to be completed and that may require an in-dash harness adjustment or replacement if the wiring is too complicated...or you may need to get a 97 computer...
The clutch interlock is a safety feature and I'm pretty sure it can't be easily deleted or otherwise bypassed...
Mark, we really need to teach you EFI. You are over-thinking this so much.
The computer is in no way involved in this. It is a simple open/closed circuit. It isn't even a different circuit for auto vs manual.
The circuit runs from the ignition switch, through the clutch pedal, through the trans range sensor, to the starter relay. If the truck has an auto there is a jumper plug in the connector for the clutch switch, just closes the circuit. Then if it has a manual the wires for that circuit just go around in a loop and run right to the starter relay.
OK, LOL...I'm actually trying to logic my way through it and probably looking at this like it is complicated...trying to solve my own issue and this one seemed very close...
What I read about the clutch interlock on the 96 says it interacts with the computer to control fuel delivery between shifts...so I assumed that this also was a function of the computer to keep the starter circuit open (not start)...however, I didn't read beyond that because I found the information I was looking for at the time...what wires to jump to get around the clutch interlock (pink and red)...
According to AutoZone website...
It requires the clutch pedal to be depressed to the floor in order to start the engine.
If cuts off the speed control system when the clutch pedal is depressed.
It provides a fuel control signal to the EEC system.
So...the automatic and computer are not related to starting issues...it's the neutral safety which will simply a cut off the starter system by not closing the circuit...
That makes sense...still more complicated than the 88 CI...
Cool Chris! Thanks for the update...and sorry about the misdirect...I meant to read more on that part of things but still learning and a bit overwhelmed due to gremlins in my wiring...this is why I loved my carb setup...
This is what u need to do where the transmission harness there are two wire that need to be connected to bypass the neutral safety. Mine were red and blue to just red. The truck doesnt need a computer to crank so its nothing you did there.
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