M5od in 1st Gen 2.3 Ranger

[Mylesofsmyles]

Long story short, I'm diving into a manual transmission swap, on my '85 2.3 Ranger....automatic transmission died yesterday. I brought home puzzle pieces from three different Rangers, and now I need to make sense of it all, and figure out what I still need.

I got the M5od from a '89 2.3 Ranger....it's missing the shifter...

The flywheel came from a '94 4-cylinder, and I got the starter too...always wanted one with an integral solenoid/relay

Pedal box & master cylinder came from an '86 2.3....I wanted to get this from a 1st gen truck, so I didn't have any riddles, bolting it into my '85...

From what I could see...the x-members are all the same, automatic and manual.

I need to order a new hydraulic clutch line....found a Dorman, on RockAuto....will one for an '89 work? Are they all the same?

Will my 1-piece driveshaft in my 2.3 Automatic work?

For now, I'll run it on my Automatic ECU, until I source the right manual trans ECU.

 

[adsm08]

Lengths and positions being correct will depend on which auto you have. The M5OD is the same length as the A4LD, but it is longer than the TK transmissions, the Fm145, and I believe the C-series autos as well (I do have a C4 and an M5OD in the garage I could lay side by side to check that one).

In my 87 I had to remove the trans member mounts and relocated them to the set of holes for use with the auto. Being that your truck was made the year before the A4LD was produced I don't know if your frame will have those holes. If they do you will be able to see one just rear of the mount ears. The cross member itself is the same.

In terms of bolting up all the master cylinders are the same up through the mid-90s at least. Just the line changed, specifically the plug to connect to the slave. The line can be swapped without issue though.

Not sure if the drive-shaft will spline in or not.

 

[Mylesofsmyles]

Wow...sounds like I've got some transmission mount riddles ahead of me...greaaatttt ;-p

Since I've been rebuilding my Volvo Turbo Wagon, this truck has been my primary vehicle...didn't expect it to crap out like this, and now I need it back on the road ASAP.

I've got no idea what transmission I currently do have...so I'm still in the dark on that one...

Are you saying that the ears for the transmission x-member bolt and unbolt from the frame?

Are we talking about drilling new holes or welding, to make it fit the new transmission?

Yeah, splines were a concern of mine, but if need be, I can try and hunt down a driveshaft at a wrecking yard....will any M5od driveshaft of same cab/bed configuration work?

 

[AllanD]

M5OD-R1 uses the same length DS as the A4LD you are removing, but uses a larger output spline.

The Clutch-line you need is one for an '88-92. it will have a BLACK anodized coupler on it.
This line works only with the 1988-92 ALUMINUM slave cylinder.

The M5OD-R1 uses the same cross-member mounting position and rubber mount
as the A4LD automatic.

You will need a "floor plate" (the removable plate in the floor that the shift boot
mounts to from a 1989-1997 RBV that came with an M5OD-R1 transmission.

You will need to REMOVE the carpet fro the truck and mount the later floor plate and use it as a guide to extend the hole in the transmission tunnel (you will need to extend the hole forward towards the firewall)

While the transmission is out you will need to remove and replace the Catalytic converter heat-shield with one from an 88-97 RBV, because the early heat-shield WILL rub against the top of the M5OD-R1 transmission making the most Godawful noise

 

[Mylesofsmyles]

Good info...

Are we certain that I have a A4LD?

I've got just about everything ready for removal...just have to unbolt the torque converter, driveshaft and x-member...

Sounds like I'm still on the hunt for a driveshaft and floor plate...

I got the floor plate from a '86 but that won't have the correct cutout.

 

[Mylesofsmyles]

Wikipedia agrees, I have a A4LD...3speed+OD

 

[adsm08]

Wow...sounds like I've got some transmission mount riddles ahead of me...greaaatttt ;-p

Since I've been rebuilding my Volvo Turbo Wagon, this truck has been my primary vehicle...didn't expect it to crap out like this, and now I need it back on the road ASAP.

I've got no idea what transmission I currently do have...so I'm still in the dark on that one...

Are you saying that the ears for the transmission x-member bolt and unbolt from the frame?

Are we talking about drilling new holes or welding, to make it fit the new transmission?

Yeah, splines were a concern of mine, but if need be, I can try and hunt down a driveshaft at a wrecking yard....will any M5od driveshaft of same and cab/bed configuration work?

It sounds like your ears are already in the right spot if you have an A4LD. I didn't have to do any cutting or welding, I had to do chiseling. Then I reattached them with grade 8 bolts and mashed-thread lock nuts.

Also, even if you can't find the right length of drive shaft, you should be able to just take the front section that slides in and swap that.


Also, just a tip, before putting any of this together, connect your master and slave, turn the whole thing upside down, stick the reservoir hose in a bottle of brake fluid, and bleed it.

 

[Mylesofsmyles]

I took a look today...it'd be a bummer, if those ears had to be relocated...no extra holes, fuel filter in the way, and those ears are riveted on.

Everything is broken down...all transmission cooling components, speedo cable, dipstick, vacuum tube, drive shaft and shifter assembly. I cracked all the bolts loose, to the x-member, and removed all for the bell-housing & torque converter.

I ran out of day light, and my transmission jack is at my shop...I'll bring it home tomorrow, and get the automatic out.

It's funny, I had to remove the header I just installed,for more room to work....I started cleaning that side of the block, and I fould silver paint....I was starting to think it was painted black. It'll be as clean as I can get it, before reassembly.

My first task today, was to swap the pedal boxes and install the clutch master cylinder, with reservoir. Plan was just to bleed it in the truck, but I may take your advice.

I'll pickup the flywheel from the machine shop, in the AM...they resurfaced it for me....I've got to place my parts order tomorrow, too...get that clutch kit, pilot bearing and rear main here, before I put that flywheel on.

Glad I hustled today...I'll have plenty of time to clean, while I await parts.

 

[adsm08]

Yeah, you want the slave ABOVE the master and the master upside down for easiest bleeding. It's because the master points down and has space for air to get trapped above where the reservoir line comes in.

 

[Mylesofsmyles]

Power bleeder?

Also not certain how if get the clutch bearing in, after line is installed.

 

[adsm08]

The line has a check valve at the connection to the slave. Once it is bled it can be disconnected without introducing air into the system.

I have dicked around with vacuum and power bleeders and have yet to find anything as simple or effective as just connecting the two and pumping the rod a few times with it all held upside down.

 

[Mylesofsmyles]

I'm taking your advice!

I ordered a new clutch master too...why not, $35 ain't gonna break this reconstruction.

My truck is now as far apart as I need it...thoroughly cleaning and degreasing the x-members and engine, in preparation for reassembly.

I'm convinced I have the early type 2.3 engine, so I ordered a seals kit for motors built before 4/8/85

 

[Mylesofsmyles]

There are two plugs that were wired to the A4LD...one 4-prong, and one 2-prong...

Can anyone assist with the wiring for this....

I need to know what's Park Safety & what's Reverse Lights...and what the remaining two would be for.

 

[Mylesofsmyles]

I made sense of the wiring to the old A4LD...

Four Wire Plug
2-wires for reverse lights
2-wires for park/neutral safety switch

Seperate 2-wire Connector
2-wires to ECU


My question is what is the signal to the ecu? I'd assume it can be ignored.

 

[SenorNoob]

I made sense of the wiring to the old A4LD...

Four Wire Plug
2-wires for reverse lights
2-wires for park/neutral safety switch

Seperate 2-wire Connector
2-wires to ECU


My question is what is the signal to the ecu? I'd assume it can be ignored.

Well, I know some models have a VSS.(I'm not sure how early that goes) Might look to see if that's it. BTW, if your truck is 4wd that's part of the transfer case. No need to mess with it in that case.

If you have the sensor it's easy to tell that by the speedometer cable coming out of it.