Looking for help with sourcing a front driveshaft - BW1350 t-case to Dana 35 TTB (M5OD trans)

[Austin S]

I've been browsing the forums and website for a little over a year while trying to bring life back to a teenager-owned 1992 ford ranger custom. That said, I've finally come across an issue I can't seem to find a documented answer for.

I'm wrapping up some rear axle TLC on the truck for its first outing since I bought it next weekend. I bought the truck with a bad fm145 trans in it, and opted to buy a reman M5OD after reading up. Trans is in but this has caused the front driveshaft to come up short due to the tcase sitting further back. Here is what I know:

- The VIN suggests the truck was originally 2wd from the factory, but it was converted 4wd at some point. There is custom fab work on the front. Everything looks well done.
- The trans is an M5OD
- The tcase is a bw1350
- The front driveshaft is currently 22" center-to-center from the diff yoke to the splined slip yoke on the tcase
- I've seen postings for a 26" center-to-center driveshaft that looks just like the one I have, I believe this is what I need (or to recreate)
- Measuring with the front suspension bottomed out seems to show the 4" discrepancy I have with the driveshaft
- The tcase u-joint is a 1210 spicer
- The diff u-joint is a 1310 spicer
- The axle tube is 2" dia

And that's about all I know. As I see it my options are:

1) lengthen the driveshaft myself on the tube (not afraid of doing this)
2) buy a driveshaft the appropriate length center-to-center with the same u-joint specs (I would probably opt for a double cardan if I need to do this)

Does anyone have any other ideas or pointers? I'm leaning toward spending the 1-2 hours to lengthen the driveshaft myself for this weekend, then sourcing a bw1354 and some driveshafts to pair nicely with the nicer reman trans I'm pairing it to. That's probably the better option considering this trucks main purpose is as a trail rig.

 

[Shran]

I am not aware of a bolt in driveshaft that will be a perfect length. '88 or '89 Ranger or Bronco II with any transmission will be the closest, I don't recall when they started using BW1354's but I think sometime around 1990.

Personally if I was you and it was just a temporary deal until I found a 1354 I would just lengthen it myself. Sleeve it with a piece of pipe or tube, tack it and install it, use a dial indicator to get the runout down as low as possible & burn it together. I have several front & rear driveshafts that I did that to and they work great. Rear driveshaft in my crawler is made out of 1/4" wall pipe, I can drag it through anything.

 

[SenorNoob]

If you need to be 4" longer, any chance adding a double cardan joint would add the length you need? Will double cardan work with the slip yoke on a 1350? Seems like it might have too much play.

Also, M5OD and FM146 are the same length. The D35 sticks an inch or so farther back than the D28 would have with the 1350. The TK5 was an inch shorter though. That's the combo I have now. D35, M5OD, 1350, with front driveshaft from an 86 2.3 4x4. It works out.