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live and learn.........


DRangerd

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2008
Messages
49
Age
65
City
Aurora co
Vehicle Year
91 & 92
Transmission
Automatic
I'm pretty sure this has been covered in the Tech B4, but just in case anybody missed it.........

So I'm pretty much done with the build so I take the truck up to the hills on a shakedown run yesterday, everything seems good, new suspension works great, flexes well, climbed some small rocks, floats over the trails at twice normal speed, even got it off the ground by accident a couple times, no problem, , all good, WooHoo!! .
Headin home, last half of Dakan Mtn road, Left front hub starts squeekin, OK, Have to look at that.........

Pull it apart today, Outer locknut had backed way off, enuff to turn the serrated washer into a cone, had to cut it off, and ate the inside of my new Warn hub.
Whole thing blew apart when I removed it.........Damn!!

The moral of the story- Torque that sucker like the book says.........

Shoulda stopped on the trail and checked it.......

150 Ft lbs torqued spare Warn now installed..........

live and learn..........

:fie:
 
Actually the book spec doesn't work so well either for them, they seem to still work loose with bigger tires. I, and many others here torque them down to 220+ lbs ft
 
Sounds like he didn't torque it at all.

I torque mine to 150ft#. I've never had it back off. I think since it's difficult to hold the socket on (I have a cheap 4-prong) while putting 150ft# on it, people may bounce the wrench to click it and aren't really getting 150ft# on it.
 
I did clean 'em this time, and did torque the outer to 150, I'll check 'em more often........
 
How in the world do you torque to 250? I can barely keep the hub socket on there to get 150.

x2, to get to 150 I had to have a buddy hold both feet on the socket and hold the rotor.....

I wonder if i could use a (bigger) impact wrench?......
 
How in the world do you torque to 250? I can barely keep the hub socket on there to get 150.


First, you need a special torque wrench that goes to 250, as most only go up to 150.

I place a jackstand squarely under the socket to stop it from slipping off.
 
First thing is to use a socket that "cups" over the nut.
these are less prone to slipping off.

Next turn the steering about one full turn to the left.
this lets you torque the nut without getting into the
fender with your knuckles

third use a big enough torque wrench.

I'm about to have my machinist cut out the 1/2" drive square in the
back of a Hub nut socket so it'll fit on my "Wiggus Torqus wrenchus"
It's literally FOUR FEET long and was originally made special order
for that Rich Uncle that all of us have in common (You know our uncle Samuel)
for tightening the wing box pivot bolts on an F-111 (or so I was told)

It does an admirable job of tightening things like hub nuts,
rear axle pinion nuts, FWD CV hub nuts (and snapping them off If I so desire)
and other large hard to tighten fasteners that intimidate most people.

I really impressed a friend with a stuck lugnut when I reached into the back of a toolbox drawer and came up with a 3/4drive 21mm socket and proceeded to snap off lug studs with two fingers. (we were replacing the rotor anyway)

AD

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be careful though i've damaged the threads going too tight,i'de call 250 the limit
 
I usually support the socket with a jack stand. I know it throws off my torque reading a bit but the socket never slips that way and you can get a good, clean click with no bouncing or busted knuckles. I usualy torque to 220ft/lbs and have had no problems with 36" TSL's.
 
W1269.jpg


(Performance Tool)

Pep Boys has them, and I believe Kragen/Checker/Shucks as well.
 

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