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Kyle M's Ranger Rebuild


I have a feeling that it is a fuel cell :icon_thumby:

l8r, John
 
Yup, picking it up tomorrow!


I am gonna go break in the new axle this weekend, just having some issues with the brakes. After replacing the one line and bleeding them (pumping them up, holding and crack the bleeder loose) I got them to pump up hard on the first pump with the truck off, but once I start it, goes right to the floor. I think I am gonna bleed the master cylinder next, but just doesn't make sense to me. Hell, I even used a piece of clear hose, hooked it to the bleeder and ran it to the master, opened up the bleeder and cycled the fluid to get all the air out.....IDK, didn't help either.
 
i had the exact same thing happen once and as it turn's out i had two lefthand caliper's, didnt realize the bleeder was on the bottom for a hour or two, lots of scratching my head
 
i had the same problem. Mine was due to the rearend. One of the brake lines going into the wheel cylinder was not tight, causing a loss in pressure.
 
i have the same problem too!! everyting is tight, only thing i can think of is that the tube going into the master has a bubble flare (like a bulb) and i used a double flare, no leaks, but thats the only thing i can think of
 
I'm gonna bet I either have a bad master cylinder or I need to do a bench bleed on it. I think you can't bleed a master properly on the truck (just my thoughts) because the brake pedal doesn't runn the full stroke to get all the air out. I'm hoping to put on a new master cylinder and re bleed it all and we will see how it works.
 
I'm gonna bet I either have a bad master cylinder or I need to do a bench bleed on it. I think you can't bleed a master properly on the truck (just my thoughts) because the brake pedal doesn't runn the full stroke to get all the air out. I'm hoping to put on a new master cylinder and re bleed it all and we will see how it works.

when i had the problem it was the original booster, and master, i replaced both, bench bled the master, same issue as the original one. good luck, and please keep me updated on if you found the problem
 
im telling ya brother, i already did that, and looks like Kevin did too. I do agree that you can not get all the air out on the truck. Check all the lines and the rear wheel cylinders (if your drummed).
 
Make sure your rear shoes are adjusted all the way up so there is a slight drag on the drum.
 
it doesnt make any scense to have the problem be the rear though if he wasnt having the problems b4 swapping in the hp? does it, i dont really know im just sayin if the problem came after id assume its a part that you changed not somthing else
 
Well the brakes were fine before I ruined the line, rears should be good, they were locking up last time I drove it. I went thru and checked all the lines, no issues that I saw. Then I put on the new master then found a bad flair on a line up there after removing it, and for whatever reason I couldn't reflair it for the life of me. It leaks now so it won't hold pressure now, think that is the problem currently, gonna get a new brake line. Hope I can get it working I wanna go wheeling this weekend.
 
glad you found it buddy!
 
agreed we had the same problem with the samurai a few years back.. it ended with a very quick trip down a hill... backwards
 
Alright, fixed the brakes. Wasn't a brake line, wasn't the master.....believe it or not, it was the extra caster built into the HP axle. My EB axle was at about 6* or so and the HP axle was 10*, must have a few extra degrees built in for whatever reason. Anyway, my bastard brake set up has always run low on the rotor and must be the extra caster rotated the caliper back far enough to create an air pocket that couldn't be bled out. I took the caliper off and heal it bleeder up and cracked it loose and air came out. Long story short, they work now and I wasted a few days of my time and about $50 in parts.
 
Oh, and I got one of the next pieces of the puzzle, my fuel cell.

IMG00225.jpg
 

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