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Kyle M's Ranger Rebuild


One day.....lol

Just depends how long before Johnny Law comes knocking at my window:D

I know my truck picks up and throws a helluva lot of snow. Doesn't take long for the damn thing to dirty itself right after a cleaning:icon_rofl:
 
When I cut mine I followed the arch of my flare. I am sure you could rig up a string off your hub and swing an arch, then flaten it out to get the shape you want. How are you gonna cut yours? What shape?

As of right now I don't really need to cut much for the 34s. When I burn these tires up and upgrade to 35s I don't want to cut them again so I wanted to just follow the flare line on the fenders already. I will use a grinder to chop them up. Also it looks like you ditched the mud guards up front, how is that working out so far?
flares.jpg
 
I have the wheel liners to keep the mud off the engine, but they don't cover the hinge area and I pack it full of shit every time I go out.....I don't like it.

My cousin cut his fenders on his 92 like that, looked good.
 
i just looked thru about 20 pages of this build and am havin a hard time finding the info im lookin for.

wondering if my fuel tank can stay in the stock location. i realize i will need to completely remake the filler tube. and run it tword's the back of the truck and then out the box side. i'm just hopin i wont have to modify the floor to incredibly much (aside from the frame rail's)
 
I don't see why you can't keep it in the stock location, just depends on how much work you do. If you run little to no body lift, you will have to clear the floor for the tank, just no way around it.

If I had it to do over, I would modify the frame to accept the cab before I modify the cab. It would have been a lot easier, but this way you would have to move the tank.
 
I am debatin about notchin the floor for the frame rail's similar to what you have done except cuttin out the area inbetween the rails and sheeting everything back in. i have access to bead roller so i should be able to make a new floor pan fairly easy. i think i'll leave my frame alone, more than I want to get into at this point. i'm hopin I can make the filler clear the rear of the cab. as far as runnin it thru the box i'm not too concerned with it comin thru the floor. prolly just run tubing for the filler vent. as far as under the cab i have a new filler neck sittin in the box i picked up from the dealer as NIV so I will prolly disect that adapt to tubing. possiably lengthen the inner filler.
 
why not just go with a BII gas tank?
 
they hang down too far below the rear axle. in the bronco it stick's up above the frame slightly
 
so.... build a skid plate
 
skid plate's dont do much for ya in the mud. around here there's a little of everything but most everything is mud.
 
They hang like seriously way to low, like 6" or 7" below the frame. Unless you cut the floor of the box and push it up I wouldn't run one.

correct me if I am wrong ( Lord knows I usually am...just ask the wife :D ) but don't you have a body lift????

was thinking if ya did have a body lift that would be 3" extra you could raise the BII tank up....

and even if ya had to cut and raise the floor, you would still have plenty of flat floor space to carry stuff....plus the room gained by getting rid of the stock tank out of the bed....

l8r, John
 
Yup your right, about 1 or so in fron and 2 in the rear....it's all jacked up, lol


But when I did some figuring I considerd the my body lift and it still didn't fit well. Besides, in a day or 2 I will have an update that shows why I don't need the B2 tank anymore.....
 
A BII also is wider between the frame rails at the back where the tank goes, so it wouldn't fit hardly at all. Find a dual tank Ranger and use the rear tank, or buy a fuel cell.
 

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