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K&N air intake kit?


Bob... man you missed my important point...i have 225000 miles on my engine (with a k&n, oh!!! its a miracle) and it is still running without a problem and no rebuild. also the wear factor of a engine lies more on the side that the oil goes in you know that why it needs oil...to reduce friction which causes wear. and i don't think that k&n was saying that dirt comes through the filter by coming out with a filter cover. i'm pretty sure they are saying it will help reduce the number of recharge services that you may have to perform on the filter.

Dirt (silicon) has to pass by the rings to get into the oil!

Do what I suggested, look up turbo dusting!!!

Oh, I just talked to a guy this past week, and he sold his Ranger to a friend, and it now has over 400K miles, and has never used anything but OEM paper air filters on it....has never had ANYTHING mechanical done to it, only plugs and wires. Still has the original cam position sensor synchronizer, water pump, etc. .......so you have a ways to go with your K&N to come close to
this example of high mileage with an OEM paper filter...
 
What do you mean no performance advantage? They have a Dyno chart of the advantage.
 
What do you mean no performance advantage? They have a Dyno chart of the advantage.


They = K&N :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl:


I'll say one last thing, already posted by others....if you want the K&N intake, BUY IT!!!!!

Nobody has posted that you can't buy the K&N intake!
 
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Not to intrude upon this thread, but I was thinking about these kits/filters and I have a thread going on in General Discussions. I know that my friends have them, and I am going to use them to gather info on these filters. One of them has a 7.3L NA F250 and the other has a 7.3L Turbo F250. They so far have seen no problems, but I will continue to gather info and see over time what happens. I just wish someone would do some extensive non-biased testing of the filter itself and prove one way or another what 'good/bad' the filter is.
 
Caught you Shady.....in your original post, you said dragsters, now you have changed it to "dedicated dragers"...........The point with the Rolls dragster was NO AIR FILTER at all Shady!!!![
You haven't caught anything, you simply still cannot read and comprehend engilish. Here is my original statement: "I do know if you go to the drag races, K&N's are everywhere on engines costing thousands of dollars."
Looks like you haven't changed Shady.............Your trying to weasel out of this one like you did when you were wrong about the GROUND on the secondaries of a DIS coilpack!!!
Not weaseling out of anything. You are trying to cover your mis-informed ass by changing what was said. It is very arrogant to think you know how products will perform on any particular vehicle sight unseen. No one in their right mind will make this claim.
I have experience in engine/automotive repair and rebuilding, but I don't do it as a profession!!!
And it shows in each of your posts. :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl: :icon_rofl:
 
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haha well bobby boy tell your friend that i said congratulations on his feat to make it to the 400000 mile mark thats pretty good maintenance on his part and i never doubted the fact that with good maintenance you can do that with a stock intake, but you are trying to slam the crap out of k&n and i am saying i have 225000 miles on a truck with a k&n (which i dont know i think thats pretty good). but back to the topic on hand. ok so this is all based off of the idea of a particle, that is so light weight that it can float through the air, makes its way past the high flowing k&n, past the inferno chamber without being completely vaporized, past the vaccum pull of the exhaust, and somehow wiggles its way past the piston rings into the oil. even then a particle so small to get past all of that still has to get past an oil filter before it can have any real long term affect on the engine. haha and i'm laughing because those are some huge factors in play here.
 
haha well bobby boy tell your friend that i said congratulations on his feat to make it to the 400000 mile mark thats pretty good maintenance on his part and i never doubted the fact that with good maintenance you can do that with a stock intake, but you are trying to slam the crap out of k&n and i am saying i have 225000 miles on a truck with a k&n (which i dont know i think thats pretty good). but back to the topic on hand. ok so this is all based off of the idea of a particle, that is so light weight that it can float through the air, makes its way past the high flowing k&n, past the inferno chamber without being completely vaporized, past the vaccum pull of the exhaust, and somehow wiggles its way past the piston rings into the oil. even then a particle so small to get past all of that still has to get past an oil filter before it can have any real long term affect on the engine. haha and i'm laughing because those are some huge factors in play here.


I'm not sure if you can understand this or not, but give it a shot. In addition to high Si in UOA, there are some interesting results in testing OEM paper filters vs K&Ns:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1096766



And a few more........


http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67114


http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-iii...ooting/68094-uoa-oe-toyota-oil-998-miles.html


http://hdforums.com/forum/oil-and-oil-related-topics/140929-used-oil-analyses-uoa.html


Post #4 in this one.....

http://yotatech.com/f2/got-my-blackstone-lab-results-back-uoa-162371/



"past the inferno chamber without being completely vaporized" You obviously don't know the melting point of silicon!!!
 
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Does anyone know someplace that sells k&n intake kits cheap? the only place i cand find that sells them is Summitracing and i know they are usually overpriced on some things.

I dont think we answered the simple question that was asked.
 
come on bob, in all the time you have to search the internet for this crap you still prove nothing. i can perform a test on how many times i take a crap every day and it does not necessarily apply to every one. that guy let his oil changes go way longer than i ever would consider. i change mine every 3000 no exceptions and you know what, despite the fact that he said he didn't notice any performance enhancements doesn't mean a thing. there are other factors at play to get a filter to perform at its full potential. i will admit the k&n claims are not true (well they may be with proper tuning), but a k&n alone will not do what they say it does, although i believe it is a step to gaining a little more horsepower. Since your a guy that is not going to budge i'm leaving it at that we are screwing over the topic. agree to disagree

redrider
i don't know what year your truck is but i bought a k&n filter at a local auto store and made my own cold air set up for about i guess 75 bucks total. then i ran piping (from the front of my truck to the filter)that catches COLD air from the front of the truck and blows it directly in the filter. then i built a heat shield out of a thin piece of steel and wrapped with some adhesive it in some thermal material (the aluminum foil looking stuff). i will say i get b/t 18 and 19 mpg on the highway on a really good day 19.5. i have a 4.0 v-6 ohv engine on 31x10.5 tires and 3.73 gearing in the axle. there is no dyno test but i have noticed that my truck does seem pull the hills with my boat a little easier than before. good luck with what ever you decide on. later
 
a little info don't try to prove K&N value looking under a Nascar hood. Rules book says untreated paper filter.
 
I don't know how many of you caught this post in the link I posted, but the test this guy did is pretty conclusive that the OEM intake and paper filter IS NOT the limiting factor for airflow into the engine, and you won't get any more airflow with the K&N. And on top of that, it's with a GM product!!!:icon_rofl:


"Only way to really know is to read your Mass Airflow Sensor on a scanner with both filters. Take a WOT run and record the highest MAF reading, then swap filters and go for another run. If there's a considerably higher reading with the K&N, then your engine is outflowing the paper filter. If they're similar, then the engine is not making any more power with one vs. another, no matter what your "butt dyno" is telling you.

Sometimes the K&N filters make the airbox louder, but really aren't doing anything else. People tend to equate more noise with more power lots of times too.

On my old '97 Grand Prix, I saw MAF readings of 19.8#/min with a new Wix paper filter, a K&N drop-in filter, an open cone, and an aftermarket CAI. This tells me that the engine was breathing just as well thru a paper filter as it was thru any other filter I tried. The paper filter and factory airbox were of sufficient flow rates for this engine."
 
well do you recomend any other upgrades?
 
well do you recomend any other upgrades?

Bilstein shocks will give you a better ride than the OEM shocks (unless you have the FX4 model, which already comes with Bilsteins), and a Gibson SS catback exhaust, no more power or MPG, just lasts longer than OEM because of the SS (Stainless Steel).

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96270461_b6nom-L.jpg
 
Im getting dual exhaust put on soon. Flowmaster 44 with 2.5" pipes to 3" stainless steel tips:yahoo:. But i meant like perfomance upgrades to get more power.:icon_thumby:
 

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