Just won't go in

[Fryedbm]

So Al's of you of you know I just changed my clutch. I worked for 3 hours yesterday trying to get my transmission back in. I have the spline in the pilot bearing I can see the throwout bearing touching the fingers of the pressure plate but they're still like a 3 or 4 inch Gap between the transmission and the engine block. What in the world am I doing wrong?

 

[bobbywalter]

Clutch backwards? did you fit the clutch hub onto the splines and verified it works?

The correct slave and properly installed?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Does your clutch alignment tool go full in and out with ease?

I pulled this picture from your other thread....

It looks like the throwout bearing is full extended... can you push the bearing rearward? It's been to long since I've done one of these... but if it won't slide rearward... crack the bleeder and see if it will go back.

 

[19Walt93]

I hope the picture was before you cleaned the splines and polished the rust off the input shaft end.
I think Uncle Gump hit the nail on the head, crack the bleeder loose and compress the slave cylinder before the next try.

 

[Fryedbm]

Does your clutch alignment tool go full in and out with ease?

I pulled this picture from your other thread....


View attachment 61923

It looks like the throwout bearing is full extended... can you push the bearing rearward? It's been to long since I've done one of these... but if it won't slide rearward... crack the bleeder and see if it will go back.

Alignment tool slides in no problem. I will crack bleeder. And try that. I'm so frustrated not knowing what I am doing I appreciate all your help!!! Before installing I was able to push it backward. Is there a position where it should stay back or will it always spring forward.?

 

[Fryedbm]

I hope the picture was before you cleaned the splines and polished the rust off the input shaft end.
I think Uncle Gump hit the nail on the head, crack the bleeder loose and compress the slave cylinder before the next try.

Yes this picture was before I took the steel wool 2 the input shaft. Will be slave cylinder stay compressed or will it just be easier to move backward?

 

[Uncle Gump]

It will most likely spring forward some but you should compress it as far as possible. There should be no resistance other then the spring tension.

@Shran what say you on this slave cylinder... it's been to long ago for me

 

[Curious Hound]

I’m thinking if you close the bleeder while holding the cylinder compressed, it should stay pretty close because there is no way for air to get in and replace the oil you just bled. It would be pulling a vacuum internally.

 

[Shran]

Crack the bleeder open. I can't promise that it will help... I almost never do that but it can't hurt.

You are getting hung up on one of two things: the input shaft is just not quite lined up with the pilot bearing, or the input shaft splines are not quite aligned with the clutch disc. The slave cylinder doesn't have that much resistance, I guarantee one of those two things is causing this whole deal.

This part you're on right now is by FAR the hardest part of installing an RBV trans. I have had some just slip right into place, I have fought others for hours and then they just slip in. Keep at it, wiggle it around until you get it. I have found that it's easiest to just put the thing on my chest and bench press it into place... then you can kinda lay on your back under it and use your knees and hands to maneuver it around. Not the most fun thing.

 

[Dirt Squirt]

Back to what Bobbywalter said, double check spline count on old disc vs new disc.

 

[Snoranger]

I know its double work but... if you get to the point where you don’t think it’s the throw out bearing, you can remove the the slave cylinder and see if the trans will go in without it. I’d save that as a last option.

 

[Fryedbm]

Crack the bleeder open. I can't promise that it will help... I almost never do that but it can't hurt.

You are getting hung up on one of two things: the input shaft is just not quite lined up with the pilot bearing, or the input shaft splines are not quite aligned with the clutch disc. The slave cylinder doesn't have that much resistance, I guarantee one of those two things is causing this whole deal.

This part you're on right now is by FAR the hardest part of installing an RBV trans. I have had some just slip right into place, I have fought others for hours and then they just slip in. Keep at it, wiggle it around until you get it. I have found that it's easiest to just put the thing on my chest and bench press it into place... then you can kinda lay on your back under it and use your knees and hands to maneuver it around. Not the most fun thing.

Ugh. Ok.ty. I will keep on

 

[Curious Hound]

 

[Fryedbm]

Ok. I'm not messing with it today. Lol. 9 hours yesterday on my back in the heat under that truck. I need a break. Here are some pics. If you happen to notice anything. I know they suck!! The main thing I was showing is the throwout making contact and the size of the gap. I will be trying the suggestions given just wanted you to see. Thanx again guys!!! Have a good day!!!

 

[Shran]

You are so close! The main thing is that for the input shaft to slide into the pilot bearing, the transmission case has to be exactly squared up with the engine. Tilted even a little will do that and I can tell by picture #3 that your tailhousing is too high. Usually when I'm at the point you are, I get a hold of the trans by the tailhousing and lift, push, drop, push, side to side, push... don't do it on a creeper, you need the leverage from your body pushing against the ground and not trying to roll away. At some point it will just slide together and you will know instantly that you got it.

It's a pain in the dick no matter what. I did my first one in a gravel driveway at night so that the manager of the trailer park I lived in wouldn't come over and yell at me for working on vehicles. I think that's when my neighbors starting referring to me as "the swearing guy."