Just need to vent...

[masanders]

There's no inspection cover, the transmission has to be removed before you can see the clutch so there is no"just look at it" operation unless you're just asking for a road test by a technician. Flywheels can usually be resurfaced but may need to be replaced if the teeth the starter meshes with are damaged. There has got to be a trustworthy shop near you that could fix it. Another thing you can check is the clutch safety switch, if it failed or came unplugged it would prevent the starter from engaging.

There is an inspection port on the drivers side of the transmission up toward the front of the transmission. You can see the pressure plate and the hydraulics. I could see quite a bit, although I don’t know exactly what to look for.

 

[masanders]

I got it started again. Don’t know if there is corrosion in the rest of the battery cables or not.

Thank you everybody for the help! I’m sending out requests for quotes to replace the flywheel and the other related components. We'll see what they say.

 

[lvwill]

It's usually the battery cables at the terminal. A little acid gets in there and does it's thing.

 

[adsm08]

There is an inspection port on the drivers side of the transmission up toward the front of the transmission. You can see the pressure plate and the hydraulics. I could see quite a bit, although I don’t know exactly what to look for.

That inspection cover basically only allows you to see things an experienced mechanic will already know by pumping the clutch pedal a few times.

To actually see the condition of the clutch disc and its friction material the transmission has to be removed and the clutch/flywheel disassembled. That's why the quote was so high.

 

[19Walt93]

As usual, adsm08 is right. I wasn't aware of the "inspection" port but unless the disc is in pieces looking through the hole won't tell you anything. If the clutch grabs or releases high and possibly is hard to depress, it's toast. A road test by an experienced tech should be your first step.

 

[joey74]

Sorry, I meant fender. On older Ford's the solenoid is on the passenger side fender, between the battery and the fire wall.

ON MY 99 ranger 3.0 solenoid is on starter

 

[masanders]

You got a bad battery cable or bad connection at the terminal.

My 87 did exactly the same thing yesterday.

Started fine, shut it off, went to start, and click no crank.

Take the positive terminal off the battery and try putting it on upside down, dont laugh, its worked for me multiple times.

rusty ol ranger,

It happened again this morning. I thought about what you said, wiggled the wires, and it started up. Thanks for helping get me home this morning. I think replacing the battery cables soon is on the to do list.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

rusty ol ranger,

It happened again this morning. I thought about what you said, wiggled the wires, and it started up. Thanks for helping get me home this morning. I think replacing the battery cables soon is on the to do list.

Atleast im good for somethin around here! lol.

But in all seriousness glad ya got it figured out

 

[det107]

rusty ol ranger,

It happened again this morning. I thought about what you said, wiggled the wires, and it started up. Thanks for helping get me home this morning. I think replacing the battery cables soon is on the to do list.

Better check grounds too, might have to sand/grind metal for better contact.

*Hint* it happened to me-

 

[masanders]

Better check grounds too, might have to sand/grind metal for better contact.

*Hint* it happened to me-

True. Does anybody know where all the ground points are?

 

[Bird76Mojo]

True. Does anybody know where all the ground points are?

Look for one from the engine to the firewall, and look underneath the cab to the frame rail. The major grounds should be pretty easy to spot.

 

[masanders]

Went ahead and replaced the repair harness thingy with diy cables leading to oem harness. I’m reading better voltage from the alternator than before.

 

[det107]

There should be one from battery to firewall too-

 

[RangerVet]

Couple of things. The hydraulic slave cylinder on later Rangers are notorious for being hard to bleed. My local Ford dealer was unable to bleed my '05. I was unable to get my new clutch to fully release. I picked up a couple of rubber brake pedal pads and glued/bolted them to my clutch pedal. This allowed me to get enough travel so I could start the truck and shift gears. Don't forget about used parts. My local pick a part yard has incredible deals. Have your wife check her school system's auto shop class. Many times the kids are looking for cars to work on so they can have real world experience. Also use her car in the evening and weekends to deliver pizzas. You can pick up some decent cash for truck repairs that way. I'll bet you have an Army Reserve or National Guard unit nearby. Visit them and talk with their mechanics and I bet you will find some guys willing to diagnose the truck for just a few bucks and then also to do some repair work when you save up some coin. Don't give up man! There is always a way. By the way - Autozone and others will load test your battery for free. It may seem ok but it might need to be replaced. The salvage yard is your friend again on this.