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Just need to vent...


Yeah, I haven't worked on anything newer than 94. It may not have one.
 
Sorry, I meant fender. On older Ford's the solenoid is on the passenger side fender, between the battery and the fire wall.
Yeah, I haven't worked on anything newer than 94. It may not have one.
just took a look all around and under everywhere. No fender mounted solenoid to be found. RonD on ranger-forums.com says the solenoid is on the starter and the relay is in the power distribution box under the hood.

The flywheel is visible from the starter location while the starter isn’t mounted. The teeth are worn down with one bump/point on the farthest point from where the starter gear would engage the flywheel. Kind of like this:

________/\
 
Yeah I'm also going off 94 and prior experience.

Good call on peering at the flywheel. Unless its jammed it would not prevent the motor from turning over.
You eliminated the possibility that it or the clutch were seized when you pull/push started it. As it ran, your fuel and spark systems are working.

So the culprit has to be somewhere in the starting/electrical system by process of elimination.

Your other problems may or may not be problems but they are not central to the no start issue.

I guess it could be a sensor like Crank/Cam/Map/MAF but its unlikely to have run in that case and more likely to throw codes.

Chase the electrical 1st. Look for corrosion inside of wire jackets at terminal ends and loose wires.
 
A single click with no motor movement usually is a bad connection or wire corroded. Do a voltage drop test to check the wire connections. Use your googlefu if you don't know how. A harbor freight multimeter will do if you can't afford better. Corroded wires can be hidden behind the insulation.
 
Just out of curiosity, have you checked the battery? Last month I drove home from work one morning and it was fine. Couple days later tried to start it and all it would do is click. 18 month old Bosch platinum battery decided to die. Exchanged it and all good.
 
Just out of curiosity, have you checked the battery? Last month I drove home from work one morning and it was fine. Couple days later tried to start it and all it would do is click. 18 month old Bosch platinum battery decided to die. Exchanged it and all good.

After a couple of days without charging from the alternator I just now put the battery on my charger. The pic is the current readout/charge status. I don’t understand why it’s so low, unless it’s dying or dead like yours was Ivwill. I have done multimeter voltage tests previously. Roughly 14v while running and right at 12.8v while not running.

If this is the problem, I’m going back to bed and I’ll wake up when I’ve got some sense. ??‍♂️
 

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One code I’ve been getting recently w/o CEL has been B1302 Accessory delay relay circuit failure. Never thought anything about it until now. I’ve got manual locks, manual windows, etc...
Use your googlefu

I can just hear Bruce Lee saying this...
 
When the truck died and wouldn’t start I was picking my daughter up from school. They assumed battery and used a jump box with no success.
 
One code I’ve been getting recently w/o CEL has been B1302 Accessory delay relay circuit failure. Never thought anything about it until now. I’ve got manual locks, manual windows, etc...


I can just hear Bruce Lee saying this...

Does the radio work?
 
A single click with no motor movement usually is a bad connection or wire corroded. Do a voltage drop test to check the wire connections. Use your googlefu if you don't know how. A harbor freight multimeter will do if you can't afford better. Corroded wires can be hidden behind the insulation.
Voltage Drop test results:

Battery +/- 12.5v down to 11.7v
Battery + to starter 0.00v up to 11v
Battery - to starter case ground 0.00v up to 0.05v
Battery + to S terminal 12.7v to 0.32v

When I did the last drop test the truck started up. This isn’t fixed, but could you tell me what this means?
 
You got a bad battery cable or bad connection at the terminal.

My 87 did exactly the same thing yesterday.

Started fine, shut it off, went to start, and click no crank.

Take the positive terminal off the battery and try putting it on upside down, dont laugh, its worked for me multiple times.
 
This wire can corrode inside the insulation and do exactly what you just said. Hard to see but it is usually a bit stiff . Bending or twisting usually will let you start the vehicle a couple times but it will need to be replaced asap.
 
A voltage drop test;
Pos on the lead battery nub.
Neg on the wire end terminal that surrounds the battery pos nub. You should see very close to 0 volts.
Next test the connection from the wire terminal end to the twisted wire itself. Again should be close to 0 volts.
Then from one end of the twisted wire to the other end of the twisted wire down by the starter.
You starting to see the pattern? Should be close to 0 volts every time you go across a connection.
Going from battery pos to the s terminal caused the relay to close, sending current to the starter. If the key was on then the truck would fire up. Doing that isn't part of a voltage drop test.
I have to go now but will check in later. Maybe @adsm08 or @RonD or someone else can help.
 
You got a bad battery cable or bad connection at the terminal.

My 87 did exactly the same thing yesterday.

Started fine, shut it off, went to start, and click no crank.

Take the positive terminal off the battery and try putting it on upside down, dont laugh, its worked for me multiple times.
This wire can corrode inside the insulation and do exactly what you just said. Hard to see but it is usually a bit stiff . Bending or twisting usually will let you start the vehicle a couple times but it will need to be replaced asap.

When I first purchased the starter it came with a replacement lead for the signal wire. I didn’t put it on then, but I just now put the replacement lead on.

Ivwill do you mean the entire battery cable or just the signal lead at the starter?
 

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