jolene

[BlackBII]

Love the truck! Good work man.

Forced induction would be really the only way to add more power.

Turbo would be my choice, but you can also add a supercharger with the intake kit from morana

http://www.moranav6racing.com/category.html?CategoryID=32

 

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

Love the truck! Good work man.

Forced induction would be really the only way to add more power.

Turbo would be my choice, but you can also add a supercharger with the intake kit from morana

http://www.moranav6racing.com/category.html?CategoryID=32

in the sake of keeping things simple and not having a ton of room under the hood because of tube work/ suspension i dont think a turbo would be my first choice but i do like the idea of a super charger...any one have any first hand info on power gains? ill do some research. my only thing with forced induction is not wanting to "wait" for power to hit. if that makes sense.
ive been tossing around the idea of a GM aluminum block 5.3L with 4 speed trans behind it. my 3 speed is getting annoying on the freeway

 

[BlackBII]

There will be some lag with a turbo, but with a belt driven supercharger the torque should be immediate.

An aluminum 5.3 would be a great choice. Not sure on the fitment, but I imagine it would be similar to a 5.0 swap.

 

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

There will be some lag with a turbo, but with a belt driven supercharger the torque should be immediate.

An aluminum 5.3 would be a great choice. Not sure on the fitment, but I imagine it would be similar to a 5.0 swap.

I know itll fit, i have to do some slight firewall rebuilding to be able to push the motor back a tad and fit the giant 4l80 trans. i just dont know if my wallet will have the room for it... LOL

 

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

So lately I’ve been having issues with the ole “stretched out” throttle cable. Everyone on the web says to fix with zip ties. Well I’m all for that! Threw a couple on there and added about 50HP. BUT. The last trip out to the dirt the cable “stretched” about 2 inches. I’m thinkin to my self no way is that even possible. Upon further review I found the issue. The housing of the cable was deteriorating near the firewall and making itself shorter (thus making the cable seem longer)
Called around to a few auto parts stores and they had nothing in their systems for a cable. Found one on eBay for a stiff 80 bucks. Anyone got an idea where to get a new one?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

havent updated in a while so hi!
not much has changed on the truck. lots of driving time and trips made!
ill attach some pics of recent fun stuff... that is till about 3 weeks ago when my c4 decided it wanted to have 4 neutrals. tore that thing out and got it rebuilt and completely rollerized. i should have time to put it back in this weekend... hopefully!

I did pick up new 1" kingpin beams, radius arms and pivots for each, dual swing steering set up, and billet chromoly steering knuckles for the front of it! that stuff will be the next thing to go on. and im very excited. just saving my pennies for hubs and brakes. so happy to finally get rid of the pesky ranger hubs

anddddd uh ya thats it! any one have any advise on how to clean out oil coolers? mine have tons of metallic soup in em from the trans fail

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I would personally buy a new cooler. If you miss any metal...
That said I would suggest varsol, a pump and line to fit the outlets.

 

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

I would personally buy a new cooler. If you miss any metal...
That said I would suggest varsol, a pump and line to fit the outlets.

i have two cbr coolers that retail for about 500 each so that would REALLY suck to have to replace both. i heard that ultrasonic vibration cleaning works well, but that costs about 50 bucks per cooler so i was wondering if any one had some home remedies before i did that. theres no metal chunks, just flakes.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

$50 per sounds like cheap insurance. I'm not a transmission guy, perhaps it would be best to ask your tranny guy? I'm sure they would have recommendations. Perhaps PM Transman304, he's on site fairly regularly and wouldn't have any skin in the game.

Transman304

www.therangerstation.com

 

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

yeah youre right. i should just pony up and do it

 

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

anyone got a link to a write up on replacing a ohv4.0 rear main seal? or just some tips? does the oil pan have to come out

 

[BlackBII]

I can post some pics of the factory service manual later, but basically you just need to remove the flywheel to get access, pull the seal, and put the new one in. No need to pull the oil pan.

 

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

sweet. side note. i put my new c4 in along with a rebuilt converter and ive got a pretty bad vibration from 1500-2000 rpm and im stumped. its not the drive line because it happens in park and neutral. c4 and converter are the same that its had for the past 2 years...both just got rebuilt is all. had a slight rear main seal leak before but now its much worse from all the vibration. im stumped on whats causing it. i was guess a unbalanced converter possibly?

 

[BlackBII]

Unbalanced converter, broken turbine blades, loose converter bolts, bad bushing, etc

When you pull the transmission out to do the seal, rev the engine to the same rpm and check for the vibration again to confirm it's related to the transmission

 

[JOLENE_THE_RANGER]

i cant start the truck without the transmission attached