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jc30f in a 2.3 regular cab?


Putting the shocks on didn't add any lift. The center of my hubs are at about 15 3/4" above the floor and my pivots were at about 13 1/4". I figured if I turn the pipe hardware upside down, it would give about a 2". The problem is the spring mount bolt wasnt long enough, so I made this new spring retainer that my socket could fit into.
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This looks kind of unstable, I might brace it later.
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This gave about 2 1/4" more distance from the beam to the bottom of the spring, I don't really know how much lift its giving because the steering is so sensitive to toe adjustments now. Basically if the suspension moves down it toes in dramatically and vice versa, because the tires have so much more traction the toe is moving the suspension. Im getting it aligned tomorrow cuz my reconstruction inspection is next week and I have to have the alignment paper. If that dosent help though I might have to get a k-link.
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I wouldn't waste the money on an alignment until you get that steering lower.

Nice work by the way, keep it up. :icon_thumby:
 
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Thanks man, yeah I'm gonna do the alignment later, for now though this thing drives pretty crazy, when you accelerate it like floats higher in the front for a while then settles down lower for a bit, and just hitting little stuff on the road its got some definit bump steer. So whats the best solution here? I read 4x4 junkies post on steering and now I understand whats going on, basically, like rangernut just said, my steering is too high. Just lowering it will eliminate the floating effect but I might still have some bump steer so Im thinking buy the k link with the even lower pitman and then cut and weld the tie rod connector piece lower.
 
The FA600 might fix most of it since you're only lifted around 4 inches not 6+ like most people.

Mine was doing some weird stuff after just switching to the 4" drop arm from the standard 2" drop, without gettin it aligned.

I'm about to install my JC60F coils (right now actually) but my buckets are raised so I should only be around 4" and am hoping mine will be fine with just the droped arm.
 
Any bumpsteer should be pretty minimal if the steering is aligned (in phase) with your beams.
Agreed, either the FA600 drop arm or a properly-set-up K-link is in order on yours.

Easy to tell how much lift you have if you put a slip-plate or something similar under one of your front tires to eliminate the bind (something like shown on this page a little ways down)
 
I read jc60f wasn't as soft as jc30f, did you put em in yet?
since you guys think fa600 should be good I decided to go with just that for now, while waiting for it to come I replaced one of my balljoints and put in the adjustable camber/caster bushings.
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I adjusted both sides to 1* positive camber and 3* caster. The box for this angle finder said "heavy duty", I accidentially dropped from a height of about 4" and the cover came off and the pointer needle flew out, It makes me wonder how the regular duty model is.
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this is the spindle dust sheild, the left one was rusted away to nothing on the outside so I welded this ring on. I know it looks rough but I didn't wanna switch to gas sheilded cuz its too much work, after I finished grinding it looked better, besides it will never be seen. the new one was like $60 from the dealer.
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stock 400 600
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steers better than it ever has now
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I know it's been awhile but any updates? How's it handle? Done any off-roading? Got any pic's?
 
the suspension moves around ALOT now especially on g-outs in the road. I definitly need to either cut the wheel wells or get some baja fenders, also with the bigger tires and no gear change this thing is really underpowered, so I've got some more work to do for sure. The offroad handeling is WAY better, like stuff that would make my head hit the cieling before, I bareley even notice now, its awesome. I made a electric to manual transfer case shifter and I'm gonna post some pictures of it in the transfer case forum so check that out if you want. I've only got these "scenery" style pics not any good trail flex ones
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