jc30f in a 2.3 regular cab?

[steevn]

 

[1RangerNut]

Well that escalated quickly, LoL

Looks good, keep the pic's coming

 

[steevn]

Well I put my steel wheels with 235/75 r15s on craigslist and some guy bought em in like an hour. So I got these.

 

[1RangerNut]

Man, I wish I could sell stuff that fast...

What are you gonna run for tires?

 

[steevn]

Yeah well I put em on for $200 I guess that was to cheap. I got BFG ATs in 265/70 r17s which would be like a 31.6x10.4. Didn't really wanna get to nuts with the tire size cuz I mostly drive it on the road. I fit 5 tires in this little car.

The front beams can move around way more with the longer radius arms. I had to grind out the bottom of the port.

and the upper and lower radius arm bolts.

 

[steevn]

Also both axles can"t droop all the way down together cuz the slip joint is bottoming. I guess you can cut like a half inch off the shaft, but I'm never gonna do a jump or anything so I guess I'll leave it for now.

 

[4x4junkie]

You need to grind out the top of the beam window also (flexing the opposite direction it'll bind up at top).
Good you got the RA bolts (I've seen these missed a couple times)

Also, if you're leaving the slip joint the way it is, tack-weld the cap in place on the back side of the slip-yoke, otherwise the shaft could bust it out.

 

[steevn]

Yeah I ground out the top of the beam window already. If I tack weld that cap in where does the force end up going to? I don't wanna break anything. I'm using the skyjacker chb352 brackets, when I first put weight on these springs the passenger side spring was compressed about 3/8" more than the driver side, but the tire was 3/4" farther from the wheel well. To correct this I had to move the passenger side beam into the lower hole while the drivers side remains in the upper hole. Now everything measures even but there in different holes. What the heck???

Here's some pics of the pipe hardware. I tapped out the 1/2 inch threads a little bigger and put this copper sweat fitting in it then drilled it out to 5/8", it fits exactly over the coil retainer threads, also the adaptor needed some releaving to get it over the bolt.

 

[steevn]

Well here's how it looks with just the front lift. It ended up only lifting it about 3.25 inches so I'm gonna end up shimming the springs, but thats later.

Here it is with the back off next to the chevy 64" I took this opportunity to replace my fuel pump sender assembly. The old sender float had a crack and filled with fuel so it always indicated empty, also the old pump was noisy so I just figured replace it now.

Here's the shackle on my brothers Tacoma, I'll flip and drop mine maybe 2" but nothing like this.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah I ground out the top of the beam window already. If I tack weld that cap in where does the force end up going to? I don't wanna break anything.

The shaft will put a force pulling against the axle pivot brackets, but they should be fine as long as you still have at least 5" or so droop from ride height (at that point the coils pushing down should only exert a couple hundred lbs against them). If anything, it'll act as sort of a crude suspension droop-limiter. I seem to recall mine bottomed against the cap also if I don't have the limit cable I have on mine on it (I don't think it is uncommon, really).

I'm using the skyjacker chb352 brackets, when I first put weight on these springs the passenger side spring was compressed about 3/8" more than the driver side, but the tire was 3/4" farther from the wheel well. To correct this I had to move the passenger side beam into the lower hole while the drivers side remains in the upper hole. Now everything measures even but there in different holes. What the heck???

I've found it easier to drill another hole up about ¾ inch from the bottom hole on the cast bracket for the pass-beam if things are not lining up well otherwise. I do not know why Skyjacker has the holes at different heights like that.

Here's some pics of the pipe hardware. I tapped out the 1/2 inch threads a little bigger and put this copper sweat fitting in it then drilled it out to 5/8", it fits exactly over the coil retainer threads, also the adaptor needed some releaving to get it over the bolt.
http://i60.tinypic.com/2ez31i0.jpg
http://i58.tinypic.com/2vlp5l0.jpg

I just welded washers with the correct-size hole over the top of my flanges. For some reason I couldn't get anything to go together at all using those adapter things.




Truck looks good
You got pics of your steering yet?

 

[steevn]

For some reason I couldn't get anything to go together at all using those adapter things.

Yeah I'm really not that stoked on them either, If I could do this any way I wanted I'd get custom ranger springs at 240lb/in that are 19-1/2" long and use the stock spring isolators, in fact maybe I'll do that later.

What I am really stoked on is the james duff components, this stuff is super high quality, the holes all lined up perfect, and the fit is spot on.

My steering is just the 4" drop pitman, which I'm pretty sure I'll have to change eventually to something with closer arcs of motion to the ttb. Also as you can see in this pic I need to shim my springs for maybe another inch. I've got slight negative camber and the pivots seem a little too low.

I bought 2 cans of rust-oleum gloss white for about $11, it needs about 2 more cans.

 

[4x4junkie]

That is so weird looking at a front axle face-on with no rear tires or axle or anything to be seen in the background lol

Yeah the steering linkage like that is almost guaranteed to cause some issues when it's together with the coils you have.

I've always liked the K-link setup, though at your height the Skyjacker #FA600 drop arm should work fine also.

 

[1RangerNut]

Any updates?

 

[steevn]

Well I've been kinda busy with other stuff, but I got the shocks today. I've really been thinking about this alot though, like how am I gonna fit the spare tire and how I'm gonna run the 64s. I'll probably have some more pics next week.

 

[steevn]

Ok well after getting the back all set up with maybe +3" lift, the jc30fs arent giving enough lift. It's not as noticeable in this pic but there like 2" different.

I figured since the shocks werent mounted yet it was runnin a little lower, cuz the nitro pressure from four shocks should add about an inch of lift. So the next step was to get the shock mounts put on. this next pic shows one shock on and the arrow is to the hole I decided to line up with the bottom hole on the 2nd shock mount. theres an identical hole on the other frame rail so it was just a good choice.

this next pic shows how much larger in diameter the skyjacker jeep coil jc30f is compared to the duff coil bucket protrusion. A stock diameter spring would match up real nice.

this shows the driver side shock mount mocked in place. The black x is where the brake fluid manifold mount bolt was.

I drilled a hole in the shock mount and cut a piece of 3/8 galvanized plumbing pipe to space the brake manifold away from the inside of the frame where the bolts go through. The bolt is an m8 regular thread about 35mm long

this is the backside, the green arrows show the galvanized pipe spacer and I bent the fuel line guard and tie wrapped the fuel lines to it, so they dont rub on the upper mount bolt.

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