Is it safe to tap the cigarette outlet power for 2 more outlets?

[Bgunner]

I have picked up a duel lighter outlet so I can add power outlets for charging phones because my factory one is about shot and plugs wont stay plugged in. I have purchased a fuse link so if I tap off of the fuse block I can have a fuse but for simplicity I'm curious if I can tap the original outlet for the power source.

I will not be running inverters for A/C current or the like off of these just simple plug ins like phone chargers, maybe a bluetooth to radio adapter ect. so the 15 amps is more than I will draw from that circuit. I just don't want to be slicing into the wiring just to have to redo it and put in a line from the fuse box.

 

[Dirtman]

As long as you're not exceeding the amp rating of the original fuse you're fine. Phone chargers don't use much. I have my front and rear dash cameras, two phone chargers, and my alarm lighting all run off one power outlet line. Plus I still use the cigarette lighter in the other outlet which is also on the same circuit and have never blown the fuse.

 

[don4331]

The EVTM for my 98, says I have a 25 A fuse for the cigar lighter outlet and 20A for the power outlet. Both of which are fed from the 50 A circuit for the interior fuse panel.

Keep power below ~250* watts on cigar/~200* watts on power outlet and you should be fine. Also, don't put 450 watts between the 2 and turn on radio and wipers or you might exceed the 600A total from engine compartment, at which time everything goes black including instruments and GEM.

I am being conservation and using 10v * 25 A for the 250 watts, the actual number is closer to 300 watts for 12v, but if you cut it that fine on both and the engine fuse blows, your truck stops until fuse is replaced..​

 

[Bgunner]

Ok then I'll tap off of the cigarette lighter for the outlets.

Thanks for the info.

I have mounted the outlets, now to pull the ashtray to get to the power and solder some wire extentions to get it to the power source.

 

[dvdswan]

Pictures and a write-up sounds like a good start too.

 

[RonD]

You need to use the same wire size(gauge) or larger than the current wire size at the factory plug, same for the GROUND wires.
In a DC system the 12v and ground carry the same AMPS

The wire gauge is rated for the fuse size/amps, the way a fuse works is that its the SMALLEST wire in the circuit, and if AMPs get too high then the smallest wire heats up and MELTS
So if you use a smaller wire then it becomes the fuse, and can/will melt and can start a fire

 

[Bgunner]

You need to use the same wire size(gauge) or larger than the current wire size at the factory plug, same for the GROUND wires.
In a DC system the 12v and ground carry the same AMPS

The wire gauge is rated for the fuse size/amps, the way a fuse works is that its the SMALLEST wire in the circuit, and if AMPs get too high then the smallest wire heats up and MELTS
So if you use a smaller wire then it becomes the fuse, and can/will melt and can start a fire

The duel socket I picked up has 12 gauge wire and the wire I used was also 12 gauge. The existing wires are a max 16 gauge size so I'm guessing 18-20, fits the blue butt connectors... I said Butt... the wire I used needed the yellow 12-10 gauge connectors. I like using the heat shrink connectors because I get to use my mini torch.

Pictures and a write-up sounds like a good start too.

I wish I would have thought of that. I was so focused on the work that pics just were not happening. It is all installed and buttoned up that only finished pics could happen now.

EDIT: Some FYI: remove the ashtray on the 89-94 and the wiring is just clipped on to the framing which is easily removed making it easy to get to it at a work station for the splicing and taping. No need to solder in the truck risking burn holes from a dropped iron.

 

[don4331]

You need to use the same wire size(gauge) or larger than the current wire size at the factory plug, same for the GROUND wires.
In a DC system the 12v and ground carry the same AMPS

The wire gauge is rated for the fuse size/amps, the way a fuse works is that its the SMALLEST wire in the circuit, and if AMPs get too high then the smallest wire heats up and MELTS
So if you use a smaller wire then it becomes the fuse, and can/will melt and can start a fire

@RonD, you missed distance in your list - every foot of wire adds resistance, so "transmission wires" wind up being larger than the "appliance" at the end in a lot of cases.

Secret decoder ring:​

20-35A, 0-4' 12ga, 4-16' 10ga, 16-22' 8ga.​

250-300A 0-4' 4ga, 4-10' 2ga, 10-19' 1/0ga, 19-22' 2/0ga ​

That's code, but an engineer with Ford can make assumptions - the load on the cigar lighter will only be long enough to heat the lighter element, and in that time the wires won't heat enough to cause issue. With those assumptions, he can assign a thinner wire. When your making 400k Rangers/year every $0.01 adds up.

 

[RonD]

Yes, you are right about that

 

[Angie]

here is a completely different approach to this question. Why not buy a separate fuse block and wire it directly from the battery? then make a complete circuit for your device(s) and place dedicated fuses for that circuit.

In my build I have 2 such systems. one is a 4 fuse block wired for key on systems, and another is a 6 fuse direct from battery for any systems that need to be added. Also use proper relays when needed.

cheers

 

[Bgunner]

here is a completely different approach to this question. Why not buy a separate fuse block and wire it directly from the battery? then make a complete circuit for your device(s) and place dedicated fuses for that circuit.

In my build I have 2 such systems. one is a 4 fuse block wired for key on systems, and another is a 6 fuse direct from battery for any systems that need to be added. Also use proper relays when needed.

cheers

While your way has its uses in my situation I only needing a new outlet that the charger won't pop out of, my way was the easiest and safest way to wire up an extras.

I have a bad back and being on my back under the dashboard has already cause more damage causing me to need to walk with a cane again. Safest way was to tap off of the cigarette lighter.

I don't use much powered items in my trucks as a rule. No power windows, door locks ect. Only amplifiers for the stereo which are run properly to the battery and to a capacitor.