I'm sure I got a short.

[alwaysFlOoReD]

How much gas in the tank?

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I don't really know how much was in it when I put the assembly back in.
I put 8 gallons in it right before I came home.
Gas gauge still read empty when I parked at my house.

I'm thinking that maybe as I was moving the assembly around putting it back into the tank, I hit one of my solder points and it wasn't as strong as I thought it was and it came off or apart.

 

[RobbieD]

Don't get discouraged.

Before pulling the bed again, I'd put the multimeter, on ohms, on the sender wires at C118 in the engine compartment.

See if there is a resistance reading there, and then rock the truck to see if it fluctuates.

If it reads "open" (infinity) at C118, then it's more than likely at the pump.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I had already decided to do just that.
I went to PickYourPart and got these to make it easier for me.

I wish I could have gotten more of the wires with them.
I was cold and the truck was up so hight I had to stack 3 wheels on top of each other to even get my wire cutters under the hood well enough to cut what I did.

I'm a short fart at 5'5" and change.

 

[SenorNoob]

I understand the short struggle. I'm legally 5'7". That's pretty generous. Most of the people I work with a 5'11"+ so I'm the mole rat in the group. I always get stuck with the tight spaces even though I'm probably thicker than anyone else. (265Lbs)

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I weigh in at about 245 pounds.
So I'm not just short I'm fat too.
I'm also bald and wear glasses.
I got psoriasis which causes rheumatoid arthritis so I don't move around too well either.
And I'm only 49 years old I'll be 50 this year.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

So today I did disconnect connector C118 and hook up both the connector ends I got from PickYourPart yesterday.

On the pump side my ohm's reading was 12.9, 13.0 and 13.1.
I had my brother shake the truck and it didn't make any difference.

On the cluster panel side my ohm's reading was over 100 I don't remember the exact numbers I think it was like 106 point something.

Before I took the assembly out and soldered the new wiring into place I wasn't getting any reading at all .
So now that I'm getting a reading of roughly 13 ohms.

I'm wondering if maybe as I was putting the pump assembly back in the tank, if I might have somehow got the float arm stuck just blow the little stop tab thing on the sending unit on the empty side.

The reading of 13 ohms is telling me that it's below the 22.5 I'm supposed to have.

That's why I'm thinking that the float arm is underneath the empty stop tab or whatever it's called that prevents the arm from going too far down.

I've decided since it ain't hurting nothing to drive the truck the way it is, I'm going to wait until it warms up to do anything else.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I took my fuel pump assembly back out of my truck today.

My solders I did the last time were still good.
As I looked into the hole the assembly goes into I thought that maybe the way the assembly sat in the hole was making it so the float was hitting the passenger side wall of the tank.

After bending the little tabs on the top plate of the fuel pump assembly so I could turn the assembly another way and have it sit flush I put it back in and didn't have no signal.
Pulled it back out and found that as my brother and I were bending the tabs we hit the top Solder joint I had made the last time and broke it.

After I fixed that I put the assembly back in place the way I wanted it. Then hooked up my multimeter and still got my 13.0 ohms reading.

So my brother said, " I don't think the float is actually floating. Why don't we take it off and see if it floats on its own? ".

So I took the float arm and float off the sender unit and dropped it in the tank it sank to the bottom did not even give any indication that it would float at all period.

So at this point I truly believe that my float does not float.

Here's my next set of questions,
Will the arm of the float make it so the actual float does not float if it's just the arm and the float in the tank?
Shouldn't have the float at least stood up with the arm laying in the bottom of the tank.
They were both laying flat on the bottom of the tank.
Any ideas on what I should do next?
Would gasoline eat through a fishing bobber if I hook that to the float with a piece of wire?

 

[Curious Hound]

So at this point I truly believe that my float does not float.

I told those guys at the factory to stop making them out of solid lead.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

It's plastic. I don't know if it's solid plastic or not it's awful light. It has a hole in the middle of it that the arm goes through.
I should have took a picture of it.
My truck's back together now though.
Didn't think of that at the time

 

[Brain75]

you did take a picture back on the 26th

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Yes I took that picture. And 3 others at the same time the fuel pump assembly was out that day.

 

[RobbieD]

Try googling "Ford fuel sending unit float". I *think* that you can find just the replacement float relatively easy. They pin-hole, fill with gas and don't float anymore.

Here it is at Summit for $10.45 (plus shipping, I'm sure):
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...bztfIeGJyMWNTVDdyZwV3rSAwo6AVb2L7S_MeJaiBF6Zg

Might can even find it at a local parts store, too.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

My brother called O'Reilly's Auto parts and they told him they don't sell just the float.

I'm thinking about finding somebody that drinks wine and getting a couple of corks using a needle and some thin wire and tie them around my float.
Maybe buy some cork board or something at Walmart or something.

I've read articles where cars floats used to be Cork.

I will call a few more Auto parts places and see if I can find a replacement thanks for the reinforcement of prior thought.

 

[Brain75]

could just ask oreilly for the cheapest sender for a kia and then rob the float off that $13 piece of junk...

Amazon.com