I'm sure I got a short.

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

If I turn the key to the accessory position I think that's what it's called.
When you turn the key backwards.

Does the fuel pump get power when the key is in that position?

And does the the gas gauge have a reading when the key is in that position?

I flat out don't know about the fuel pump getting power with the key in that position.
And I've never paid close enough attention to the gas gauge to know if it comes on when the key is in that position on any vehicle.

 

[Brain75]

I searched for "anti slosh key off fueling" and got similar from a powerstroke forum:

"
The instrument cluster uses 4 different operating modes to calculate the fuel level:

Anti-slosh (default mode)
Key OFF fueling
Key ON fueling
Recovery
After a fuel fill up, the time for the fuel gauge to move from empty (E) to full (F) ranges from 2 seconds to 55 minutes depending on which operating mode the fuel gauge is in.

The default fuel gauge mode is called the anti-slosh mode. To prevent fuel gauge changes from fuel slosh (gauge instability due to changes in fuel sender readings caused by fuel moving around in the tank), the fuel gauge takes approximately 55 minutes to go from empty (E) to full (F).

The key OFF fueling mode (2 seconds to read empty [E] to full [F]) requires 3 conditions be met:

The key must be in the OFF position when refueling the vehicle.
At least 15% of the vehicle's fuel capacity must be added to the fuel tank.
The instrument cluster must receive a valid key ON fuel sender reading within 1 second of the key being put into the RUN position. The key ON sample readings are considered valid if the fuel sender reading is between 15 ohms ± 2 ohms and 160 ohms ± 4 ohms. If these conditions are not met, the fuel gauge stays in the anti-slosh mode, which results in a slow to read full (F) event.
The key ON fueling mode (approximately 90 seconds to read empty [E] to full [F]) requires 3 conditions be met:

The transmission is in PARK (P) (automatic transmissions), or the parking brake applied (manual transmissions).
The key is in the RUN position.
At least 15% of the vehicle's fuel capacity must be added to the fuel tank.
In key ON fueling mode, a 30-second timer activates after the transmission is put into the PARK (P) position (automatic transmissions) or when the parking brake is applied (manual transmissions). When the 30-second time has elapsed and at least 15% of the vehicle's fuel capacity has been added, the fuel gauge response time is 90 seconds to read from empty (E) to full (F). When the transmission is shifted out of PARK (P) or the parking brake is released, the fuel gauge strategy reverts to the anti-slosh mode. This mode prevents slow to read full events from happening if the customer refuels the vehicle with the key in the RUN position.

Recovery mode is incorporated into the instrument cluster strategy to recover from a missing fuel level message during a refueling event. Missing fuel level messages result from intermittent opens in the fuel sender or its circuits. Recovery mode (empty [E] to full [F] approximately 20 minutes) is initiated when the following 2 conditions are met:

The instrument cluster is in the anti-slosh (default) mode.
The actual fuel level in the tank is greater than what is being displayed by the fuel gauge.
"

Fuel Level indicator info

I was browsing thru the shop manual, and ran across this info. I just found this interesting. Fuel Gauge The instrument cluster receives the fuel level signal from the fuel level sensor, part of the fuel pump module. The fuel level sensor measures variable resistance in the fuel tank...

www.powerstroke.org

 

[Brain75]

in my 2nd gen, no dash, no gauges, no nothing in ACC (accessory) except 1) radio 2) stuff that is ALWAYS continous or B+ (brakes, hazards, headlights, park lights).

I added power seats and a cargo light so those are in ACC as well but those aren't stock.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Thanks once again for the help everyone.

 

[Curious Hound]

The fuel sender will only receive power when the key is in the run or start positions. Follow your diagrams back through the anti-slosh module in the instrument cluster to the fuse (7?). Dontbe surprised if the slosh module only sends 5 volts to the sender. This is so.etimes done to prevent a big enough spark to explode fuel vapors. Although I don't see a note in the book specifying a lower voltage.

The fuel pump will receive power for a few seconds when the key is first turned on. This is to build pressure to start the engine. But then it cuts off until the engine is actually running. While testing your sender with the tank open, you can remove the fuel pump relay and that will prevent voltage from going to the pump and make things safer.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I had just thought of taking out the fuel pump relay.
And right when I was about to ask here at TRS your post came through on my phone.

 

[Curious Hound]

If that's 30watt soldering iron has trouble heating the metal for you, you might need to get a soldering gun like the one below. It gets to roughly the same temperature. But it has more energy (higher wattage) to transfer heat to the workplaces.

It's like trying to boil a pot of water with a cigarette lighter compared to boiling a pot of water with a butane camp stove. Both flames are the same temperature. But the stove is burning more fuel, so it gets the water boiling a lot faster. The cigarette lighter might not be able to deliver enough energybto get a big pot of water boiling. A soldering iron that is too weak will take longer to heat the workpieces, if it ever does. You bought it. So go ahead and see if it works.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

If that's 30watt soldering iron has trouble heating the metal for you, you might need to get a soldering gun like the one below.

I see nothing below your post Curious.

 

[Curious Hound]

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

100 watts.
Looks nice. I like the price as well.
I didn't see that one at my Harbor Freight.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I just looked on their website. I see it there.
I didn't see it in the store. I think I might go back tomorrow and ask someone that works there.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

Just thought of something else.

Today when I removed the pressurized gas line I had some gas spillage.
If I start the truck then remove the fuel pump relay and let truck run out the gas that's in the line I shouldn't have no spillage. Or at least not as much.

And at the same time I'll be able to do my test with the the wire with the alligator clips on it, to make sure that my solder points I'm going to try and use will be good.
And I won't have to worry about no sparks.

Once again thanks for the help everyone.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

I followed my TRS brother " Curious's " advice.
Took the soldering iron I bought yesterday back.
And bought this one

Thanks for the advice Curious.

Thanks to everyone else for all the help I've gotten.

I'm hoping to work on my truck either Saturday or Sunday.

Tonight I'm doing this:

Prepping for a colonoscopy tomorrow.

I'm sure it will be real fun. NOT!!!

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

For those who would care to know my colonoscopy went just fine today.
However I had a migraine by the time I got home.
Migraines running my family so it's nothing new to me.

My brother's lined up a toilet installation for me tomorrow so I can make a couple dollars.
Got to pay bills somehow.

I'm hoping to be able to work on my truck after I'm done doing that.

 

[ShhhhhDougsHere]

So I was able to pull the fuel pump assembly back out of my truck again today.

1st I started my truck then I pulled the fuel pump relay.
It didn't take long at all for my truck to shut off.
Anyways.
After I pulled the assembly out I hook up the wire with alligator clips on both ends to where I wanted to make my solder points.
Then I moved the float to where it was in the middle of it's ark path.
Mimicking a half a tank of gas.
At that point I turned the key to the on position. I watched my gas gauge move slowly to the half full mark.
After it got all the way to the half mark, I then moved it all the way over mimicking a full tank and watch the gas gauge move to the full mark and a little passed.

At that point I figured I was hooked to the right places.
So I unhooked everything and took the assembly in the house to solder the wires where I wanted to place them.
It was cold outside today and I didn't want to have to fight the temperature of the metal with the soldering gun's heat.

I started at the spot on the under side of the pen that the wiring harness plugs into.
I was right to do that spot first because it was the hardest part to get to solder to stick to.

Once I had a good solder with the right placement and felt the wire was connected well.
I then used my multimeter to test the other side of the peg where the wiring harness plugs into. And the other end of the wire I had just soldered into place.
I had a good reading.

So I moved on to my second solder.

The Second solder didn't take nearly as much effort or time.
After I finish that joint I had a friend of mine move the float around while I held the meter probes on the pegs that the wiring harness plugs into and I had a good reading.

I cleaned up all my tools and supplies.
Then I went outside and put the assembly back into the tank.
I took another reading, it was low 13.5 I believe.
But the tank was almost empty so I figured the float was just all the way down.

Then I plugged the wiring harness back into place.
I Then plugged in the fuel pump relay and started my truck.
I watched the gas gauge for 5 whole minutes and it stayed were it normally is on empty.

At that point I was pretty irritated so I just had my friend help me lay my bed back down.
After I bolted my bed down and put my bed liner back in place so I can drive.
I called it a day for working on my truck.

Hopefully it's a little bit warmer out tomorrow and I'll be able to run some more tests.

That's all I got for today folks