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I'm sure I got a short.


Got to go for now I will pop back in sometime later.
 
Got to go for now I will pop back in sometime later.
No real need to tell us when you pop in and out. We’ll see when you reply. And we’ll reply as we are able.
 
Curious,
Thanks for letting me know I don't got to tell everyone when I pop in and out of the forum.
I did not know if it keeps my name in the spot where it says members online even when I'm not on the page or not.
I've not seen anything that say login or logout.
At least if I seen it I didn't realize it was on what ever page I was on .
 
So today I was able to do the test that PJ advised.

I'm a bit hesitant to jump in here, but what 'da hell, here goes,,,
pin 9 in the harness should have a direct route back to the battery negative/ground post.
to test, do a continuity/ohms/resistance check from 9 in the harness to the battery negative. leave it ( 9 ) in the
connector, unscrew the harness from the computer to access the pin.
you may get about 1 ohms there, that's the actual resistance of the wire.
to do a better test rig up a small light bulb, 12v, or test light, and go between 9 in the harness and the positive battery post.

do not run straight wire from the positive to pin 9, that will be a direct short and something will go POP
there must be a load there, that's the light bulb/test light.

that will give you a circuit that goes from the pos terminal, thru the light, then back to neg terminal thru the harness.
it puts a small load on the wires, a volt-meter does not put any load on wires while testing.

ignore any readings from pin 9 on the computer while the harness is unplugged.

I now know forsure got good ground.
 
That should have said:
I now know forsure that I got good ground.
I guess I sometimes don't actually right what I'm thinking I'm writing.
I guess I should slow down and prof read better before I post.
 
That last post I used google voice typing and it ever used the wrong word right where it should have used write.
 
And just now my brother taught me how to take a screenshot of what's on my screen.
So now that "Curious" has not only sent me a diagram of my ignition system. And he has taught me how to read it I can blow it up better and hopefully really figure this out.

Once again I truly thank everyone for their help.
I really thank Curious for the diagrams and the lesson on how to read them. When he had the time.
Along with the YouTube video.
And I really thank Bobby as well. He did his best to walk with me through everything I was doing. When he as well had the time.
PJ for the ground test.
Uncle Gump for his help and encouragement as well.
And any and everyone else that helped and gave me encouragement.

I'm still at it just been busy the last few days jumping throw the government hoops I've had to jump throw because I'm on parole.
 
Take your time. It's not a race.
 
I sure hope everyone had a good day today.

I'm still fighting with my truck.
I'm starting to think I need some tools that are better quality .
I keep getting some inconsistent results.
So I think tonight I'm going to Focus some of my thoughts on how to make the tools I have work better for me.
 
we are still listening.
what kind of tools do you have?
So today I was able to do the test that PJ advised.



I now know forsure got good ground.

I edited that post to remove mention of the PCM, it should have been ICM.
it appears you worked it out OK anyway.
 
EDIT
I had posted a link to a diagnostics site, but never mind, it was to basically worthless info.
 
Last edited:
Well I'm mostly using a test light. And the last few days I'm sometimes getting power to the relays in engine bay fuse box and sometimes not getting power there.

I'm going to use the word "port" for the place that each post on a relay plugs into. Because I don't really know what it's truly named.
Okay so.
I know or at least I think I know that on a reply I should have 2 power ports where each relay plugs into.
1 port I believe should be hot at all times. Where post 30 on the relay plugs into.
And one port for the same relay should only have power when that relay is to be turned on.
That could be the port for posts 85 or 86 on the relay.
So from what I understand most relays be it a 4 post relay or a 5 post relay,
Really only use four of the posts.

Today well technically yesterday because it's after midnight night:
I tested all the ports for all my relays to see what I was getting.
I did this with the key off first.
And then again with the key on.
I did each port more then once.
And at times with key off and on both it was like the power was showing up at 1 point and then not showing up at others.

I did get consistent power at the port for pin 30 on my fuel pump reply. With the power off or on both.
Which to my belief is the way it should be.

And consistent power to the port for pin 85 "I believe it was" of the Fog Lamp relay when the key was on. And no power there at all when the key is off.
Which also to my belief that the way it should be.

Once I was done doing those port hole power tests I went ahead and really fastly ran a relay jumper wire for a very short time from the port for pin 30 to the port for pin 87 of my fuel pump relay.
Just to make sure my fuel pump is working and once the fuel pump came on I pulled the jumper wire out.
So I did confirm that My fuel pump does work for sure.
 
Sorry about the book there.
 
So I told everyone on Wednesday about My brother teaching me how to screenshot what I have on my screen.
So today "yesterday beings it's after midnight" I decided to do something else my brother taught me.
Since I don't have a printer he taught you can go to the UPS store and get stuff printed out for a small price.
Next time I get the chance and I have a couple of extra dollars in my pocket I'm going to go to the UPS store and have those Diagrams "Curious" posted printed out so I can lay them out next to each other the way they go and color highlight stuff on them.
I'm sure if I ask my brother, he will give me the money for the printouts.
I just got to ask.
And to do that it takes a person to swollow their pride.
But I can that for my trucks sake.
Besides this problem has my brother stumped and intrigued as much as it does me.
So I know he will pay the price.
He his self is not any good at all with reading a wiring diagram.
It confuses him so bad He will not even try to read one.

I believe I used the word intrigued right.

Sorry that's another book.
 
1 port I believe should be hot at all times.
You can not assume this. It depends on how the circuit is designed to work. Some relays don't have power to any ports unless one or more other things in the circuit are turned on first. This is why it is so important to have and understand the wiring diagrams for what you are working on.
 

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