Ignition Troubles - 1996 Ranger XLT

[PackerRanger]

Okay - here goes.... TRUCK HAS ISSUES WITH STARTING NORMALLY

Over the last few years, I've had instances where [out of the blue?] I would go out to wherever, shut it off - go in shopping - come back out and the truck simply will not start. I open the hood, look around - not sure what to look at. It's a 2.3 4cyl manual 5-speed 2WD (normal family use vehicle).

I check all the spark plugs - it has two coile on top of the engine.
I wiggle stuff, bank with the head of a screwdriver in several other areas.
SUDDENLY, it starts back up and there's seemingly nothing wrong with it.
Just suddenly catches spark and it's working again... like alien spaceships must be around the corner, or whatever

I get it home, try to restart immediately - works every time... no issues
Have no idea at all why it wouldn't start that one time.

FIXES -----

1. changed that little fuel control doo-hickey just under the fuel injection
2. changed the fuel filter at the same time .... went several weeks without issue

I have to drive about 25 miles to work downtown where I live - and every morning the truck starts right up and I have no issues at all.
When I come back out to go home (?) it won't start - like it's out of fuel, or whatever.
Is there such a thing as a tired fuel pump....? Or not enough vacuum pressure only at certain times (?)

After about 20-25 minutes of trying, it "suddenly" starts right up, and nothing is wrong (course, I ain't in the mood to shut it off, etc.,etc) What the ehck would I want to do that for.....I drive it home and the next day, it starts right up. Not a dang thing wrong with it. Shut off and restart several times - no issues. Repeatedly, this would be the routine. Good thing, at the time, it was warm out.

3. I took it to a Ford Dealer nearby - they tell me it's the catalytic converter that's plugged - it shows signs of heat discoloration, etc and it will take $1800 to replace the whole system... Me? I don't see any discoloration and I start checking for replacement parts at the Advance Auto Store.... can't find the exact match and figure to hold off and do moreresearch.....I park it in the garage and start googling online for a site like this.

4. Thinking OLD SCHOOL - I go to Parts Store and purchase two coils, for the top of the engine and BINGO, it runs flawlessly for almost two months, before I get yet another attack of the "can't start" nonsense. There's no Distributor on this thing, so it's me learning on the fly - not like when I was in school and we all had HOT RODS.

5. Then, we spend $100 and get a fuel pump - pop the box off the back, and proceed to dig inside the fuel tank - take care of business (oh, never lay the box on your grass - I had yellow discoloration for weeks)

- - we check the new fuel pump for proper flow down the line, and on top of the engine where that bicycle tire cap is screwed on, at the end of the fuel line - see if it gets good pressure, as required ---- perfect repair process - no issues

Again, driving the truck all day , back n forth to the Store, doesn't seem to have any issues - until that last run I needed for grilling out (of course) - murphy's law..... I drive several weeks using my car instead of my Ranger - sux.

So, it's starting to get cold out, but in the morning, it starts and I get about a half mile down the street on the way to the highway exit and it simply dies.... stops running - no idea how or why - all attempts are fruitless .... have to have it towed back to the house and parked in the garage. Several weeks go by - got life to live.....

Get hold of a local garage mechanic, since the Ford Dealer is a putz and wants all my dough over something it never was anyway (remember the coils?).

They take the truck and replace the timing belt, and two little sensors on the backside of the engine - costs about $500 for the work - but it's running again and I don't (hopefully) worry about gettin back n forth to work, 25 miles down the dam highway every day - city traffic sux

About a month later, I'm practically back where I was - it's actin up again - starts up, dies right away and won't start, for like 20 minutes. Twice before, I had hit the brakes real fast to avoid an accident (their fault, what else) and the truck suddenly dies, but restarts almost right away. Fuel flow problem? Weird.....

I go to Auto Parts Store and get one of those air valves, that screw on the back of the engine on top, behind the gas pedal cables (has a computer plug on it) - the old one was pretty dirty .... it seems to run better and consistently starts every day, for weeks..... I even check a couple of tanks worth on the gas mileage.... Are we normal now?

In my book (opinion), this little truck should get around 500 miles, or more, to a tank of gas....
It was getting more like 300 miles a tank - then I change the air doo-hickey and it goes back up to around 400 miles a tank.... I remermber writing down mileage when I first bought it - gas receipts to a friend up nort' and back - about 275 miles each way and I was getting near 33 mpg.... WOW ... that was then. Once you purchase and warranty demands you bring it in, the Dealers do somehting to the computer and that kinda mph goes away forever.

Then, last weekend - guess what... Mother's Day - trying to go out for a bite to eat. It starts up, gets down to the stop sign and dies......don't wanna start up and stay running - it takes at least a half hour to finally catch fire (spark, that is) and stays running long enough to get her home -- it's been in the garage ever since.

EVERYONE wants to tell me it's the "expensive" parts I should focus on.... Never something relatively cheap.
IF I WANTED TO DO THAT - I woulda had Ford Dealer replace the cataclytic converter for $1800 smackers.... DOH -- remember it was only a $100 bucks at the time, for those two coils.....(?)

One thing that we did notice after I changed the fuel pump last summer - was that when I am filling the gas tank, the handle to the fuel pump at the gas station is supposed to auto-shut-off so you don't overfill, ..correct? Well, my don't do that now... it just allows gas to start running all over the pavement - which means something about the filler hose to the gas tank has a crack in it (?)...maybe! That still isn't gonna cause the truck to just turn over and over and over... and never catch spark.

Is it a Computer thing? Lord, I hope not - that's about as much as I could sell the truck for... it's old enough that I would never use it for collateral --

Today - I'm getting ready to pull the box back off and look at seeing whether the fuel pump is possibly what's wrong... or is there a way that air is getting into the gas line to the engine...?? I seriously can't think of anything else.

Thing is - I like the Ford Ranger... it's a good truck and doesn't take up too much acreage whenever you're in traffic... I don't need the biggest, loudest vehicle in the neighborhood.... I'm 35 years past such nonsense - and look at the gas prices...

ANYONE ELSE HAVING THESE PROBLEMS ?

 

[modelageek]

I will throw some stuff out there and you do with it what you can. it seems like you have a good understanding of it all!!!

you need to determine if it is fuel or spark........ie, spray starter fluid into tb while cranking/ check spark plug wire for spark while cranking.

you have replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pressure regulator i believe?. along the way have you ever done a fuel pressure test. the symptoms are similar to a possible vapor lock in the fuel system.

have you messed with the relays at all ie. fuel pump or others?

I don't know if you replaced the ignition control module. They are a know issue with these trucks. you can get it tested at a parts store. make sure they test it a bunch of times because sometimes the problem is random. Make sure when you reinstall the icm that you put all the small screws back in the screws are grounds and the truck will not start with out all of them.

but first go determine if it is fuel or spark......

do you have any codes, even pending codes?

 

[modelageek]

I reread your post. where did you get a fuel pump for $100,. Was it just the pump itself and you reused the rest of the setup. if you determine that it is fuel and not spark you should do a fuel pressure test, 1)you want to do a koeo, how many cycles to build up pressure? 2) koer? 3) after you remove the key from ignition how long does the pressure hold?

*a direct fit cat from rockauto is $200 for the part. and a walker exhaust system form the same place is about $200 also. if you end up having both fuel and spark. we could probably start suspecting the cat!! I would think if the cat was bad it would run like @#$% after it started!!!!

 

[PackerRanger]

Well, the "fuel or spark" approach is where the local Advance Auto guy is pointing ....
Or, it could be a vacuum issue.... which would lead to "vapor lock"...?

That fuel pressure tester is aruond $40 all by itself - more investments.....
The fuel pump was an exact (after-market) factory replacement, without the real cost at the dealer - from Advance Auto

Spray [starter fluid] into "tb" ...? ////// Is that a typo?
We did the spark plug gettin spark test last Sunday - that seeemed fine.

It almost sounds like I'm describing lack of vacuum to suck the gas to the engine (?)
But, aren't we supposed to be getting a push of around 40 for the gas to be shoved at the engine from the fuel pump?

A "direct fit cat" does what exactly - is this to replace a part I have going bad?

CAT means what ?

 

[PackerRanger]

So, let's see....

I need a fuel pressure tester - hooked up whenever the event happens again
I need a vacuum tester hooked up - for the same test event

Advance Auto said it could be the connector to the fuel pump at the tank
No telling how much that would cost or whether I can be who could replace it...

Heck - even my fuel filler hose seems to have a crack in it -and that looks custom sized
It's about 2 inches across at the top where I insert the filler spout
It's about 3 inches across on top of the tank.... (old and cracked about that clamp

I'll have to check and see what a new vacuum asembly might be.....
Looks like it's almost too much to have fixed.... potential of at least 10 manhours right off?

 

[modelageek]

Well, the "fuel or spark" approach is where the local Advance Auto guy is pointing ....
Or, it could be a vacuum issue.... which would lead to "vapor lock"...?

That fuel pressure tester is aruond $40 all by itself - more investments.....
The fuel pump was an exact (after-market) factory replacement, without the real cost at the dealer - from Advance Auto

Spray [starter fluid] into "tb" ...? ////// Is that a typo?
We did the spark plug gettin spark test last Sunday - that seeemed fine.

It almost sounds like I'm describing lack of vacuum to suck the gas to the engine (?)
But, aren't we supposed to be getting a push of around 40 for the gas to be shoved at the engine from the fuel pump?

A "direct fit cat" does what exactly - is this to replace a part I have going bad?

CAT means what ?

1)vacuum leak creating vapor lock makes no sense to me

2)I bought a fuel pressure tester from harbor freight a month ago for $20. I have also "borrowed" them from autozone and advanced for free before

3)spraying starter fluid into the tb=throttle body, if the trucks starts for a few seconds that means you have spark.

4) cat= catalytic converter. a direct fit one is one just like the original that bolts into place.

I think you said you had spark(you did this when the truck was not starting right?) which means that the problem it is prob fuel related

you can try swapping some relays around also

 

[Spitfire1975]

CAT is catalytic converter.

TB is throttle body. Spray starter fluid in the throttle body to see if the engine starts...and then dies.

If you are getting spark, then it is a fuel supply problem. The pressure should be in the 35-40 lbs neighborhood. A fuel pressure tester, compression tester, etc.. are good things to have if you are going to keep the truck. It's a good investment and will save you a ton of cash vs. taking it to the dealer all the time.

 

[Spitfire1975]

1)vacuum leak creating vapor lock makes no sense to me

2)I bought a fuel pressure tester from harbor freight a month ago for $20. I have also "borrowed" them from autozone and advanced for free before

3)spraying starter fluid into the tb=throttle body, if the trucks starts for a few seconds that means you have spark.

4) cat= catalytic converter. a direct fit one is one just like the original that bolts into place.

I think you said you had spark(you did this when the truck was not starting right?) which means that the problem it is prob fuel related

you can try swapping some relays around also

damn. beat me to it.

 

[modelageek]

damn. beat me to it.

great minds think alike

 

[Spitfire1975]

 

[modelageek]

is your cel=check engine light on?. does it come on when you turn the key just before satring? have you chekced for codes?

I think if you had a vacuum leak it would show up in other ways. You also would probably have a few codes. double check that you have spark when it is not starting and then we can go from there.......it most likely would be some fuel issue and since you have a new regulator and pump it cant be much else....maybe an overheating relay?

 

[Spitfire1975]

And check for power to the coils when it is not starting. Just cause you can.

Modelageek........possibilities of plugged fuel return lines? Or bad fuel line Quick disconnect seals allowing in air?

 

[PackerRanger]

Actually, since about the 4th year I had the truck, the Check Engine light has come on and stayed on. Error Code 20 (?), I think - been awhile since I had my friend come over and check up on it. As you know, removing battery cable resets the computer to base and it takes some time before any lights come back.

The code I mention relates to those two sensors down the exhaust pipe, alongside the tranny. I changed both of them, the light was out for about 2 weeks, and then unceremoniously came back on.... no indication why. And, they stay on, basically. I've changed those sensors twice -- screw it, unless there's something else, the book ain't tellin me. Otherwise, I don't seem to have any other issues that would make my light go on.... (that I know of)

The fuel line "quik-disconnects" - I take it you mean before and after my fuel filter....
That's not a bad reference area - there are some right on top of the fuel tank, as well. Currently, the box is off the truck - got that done today - re-checking everything. It looks like I need a new filler tube and the base is larger than where you would put the nozzle when filling up - about an inch difference.... checking cost for that now - may have to order from the dealer - hate that nonsense... but it seems to be non-standard (same size at both ends).

Will re-check Coils - but they are only about 8 months old. Spark Plugs are the 100K variety.

Need more detail on "overheating relay"....... Anything?

 

[PackerRanger]

CAT is catalytic converter.

TB is throttle body. Spray starter fluid in the throttle body to see if the engine starts...and then dies.

If you are getting spark, then it is a fuel supply problem. The pressure should be in the 35-40 lbs neighborhood. A fuel pressure tester, compression tester, etc.. are good things to have if you are going to keep the truck. It's a good investment and will save you a ton of cash vs. taking it to the dealer all the time.

I'll have to test spraying into the Throttle Body ... (like an old Carb?)
I've literally never had to take this engine apart aside from the normal water pump nonsense or thermostat changes - just change the oil and drive - up until now, it's been pretty much bullet proof.

I know that when it is about to give me problems - it behaves as if I'm spraying into the old Carb and that's the only time it would start - - that once and (oh $hit, here we go again).

Hell, I drove this thing for four years - changed oil, fillled it up and gone.....
Since then, it's been one thing per year - until this, that is.

Been a good reliable truck... and the floorboards ain't rustin' thru, like those old Cheyenne's would do up nort'

 

[modelageek]

lets try and be clear. when you are having the problem if you spray starter fluid into the TB the truck starts for a few seconds. if this is the case then your problem is not spark related. you do not have to check coils or the ignition control module etc. The problem is most likely some fuel related issue. since you have a new fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator let concentrate on other things. you have a fuel pump relay for the truck I think it is in the power distribution box. You want to change that either with a new one or swap it with another in the box that is the same. You might have a leak in the fuel system that is letting air into it and creating this vapor lock. maybe the issue with the filer hose is causing the problem.
To be clear if you spray stater fluid into the TB WHEN YOU ARE HAVING THE PROBLEM AND IT STARTS WE CAN ELIMINATE SPARK AS THE PROBLEM