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How to- 2.9 idle adjustment


I am also facing the issue of me touching something I shouldn't have. My 1987 B2 will start and run fine for 30s before flat-out dying. This was after I had messed with my TPS. Hopefully, this fixes it. What do I do if I can't get it to warm up because it keeps dying?



I'm worried about this too. Does anyone have any recommendations if I come across this? Can I adjust the voltage of the TPS without touching the the Idle screw?
Will it stay running with your foot on the throttle?

id make another thread for this issue itll get more attention.
 
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Update: I cannot stress this enough, DONT TOUCH THE TPS. I finally fixed my problem. Before, it was struggling to stay at 45, now I can do 75 up a hill no problem. It felt as if it wasn't able to change gears. I probed the ground and the signal wire from the TPS and measured it to be ~0.74v. I loosened the screws on the TPS and tilted it until I couldn't turn it any farther to increase the voltage to ~0.84v, after tightening the screws and resetting the ECU by unplugging the battery for a few minutes it ran like new! I'm gonna try to the get the voltage 0.9v and the idle RPM to 700 and see if that improves it any further.
 
I know the oil weight is wrong on this label but is the Idle RPM correct ? (1990 2.9, AT)

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I will add to this thread. I just swapped in a 2.9 where a carbed 2.8 resided. It wasn't easy, new fuel tank, sending unit with pump, had to mount the frame rail pump and run all new supply and return lines. Then there was the computer. Had to add all that in with all the wires for the fuel injection.

After I got done, I went to start it, it would not idle correctly. When it was cold and idling high it was fine, when it started warming up and the idle speed came down, it would start hunting. I could adjust the throttle screw and get it to idle smooth, but touch the throttle to rev it up and it would start hunting again. When you tried to move it around the yard, it truly was a Bronco, bucking and jerking.

After much experimentation I found out that the early 2.9's (this was a 1986 system) did not have a speed sensor. They had different idle strategies for idling stopped and running down the road, and this was determined by switches on the transmission and the clutch pedal. When I did all this wiring, I had left this idle switch loop open, ungrounded. It goes to pin 30 of the computer. I found out if I grounded this pin, everything settled down and I was able to drive it.

In fact it drives better I think than it ever did when it was in the truck with the switches supposedly working. Maybe they were not working that well, it was always a challenge to get going without stalling the engine. I permanently ground pin 30, and have been a couple of trips so far. I will have to see if leaving this grounded affects fuel mileage or driveability.
 
If that is the case you might have to hog out the screw holes on the TPS so that it has more adjustment room and then turn it accordingly.

Dang, '87 2.9 is supposed to idle at 650RPM +/-... might have to mess with mine a little more... it stays around 800 after doing the original procedure in this thread.

Shran, I'm having a similar issue. My truck would idle just above 1000 rpm before I did this procedure (to the tee), but it still idles at about 900 rpm. Feels plenty smooth, but just still seems high...
 
Late reply but oil is incorrect. Label should state 5W-30.

I want to say even a few 1994 4.0L trucks I've had specified 10w30. I think your label is correct for your model year.
 
I want to say even a few 1994 4.0L trucks I've had specified 10w30. I think your label is correct for your model year.

Well I've got the original OG & it states 5W-30, unless you live in an area like Death Valley you would use 10W-30.
I've been running 5W-30 for the 15 years I've had my truck without any ticking issues.
I read somewhere (& maybe here) that Ford didn't keep all there labels updated. Who knows ?
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i would have to run 10-30. we reach over 100 degrees way more days then we even think about 0 degrees.

we hate the 30s and would die that cold here in south texas
 
i would have to run 10-30. we reach over 100 degrees way more days then we even think about 0 degrees.

we hate the 30s and would die that cold here in south texas

Understood. Pretty mild winters here & with a few 30° temps as well.
 
According to the walmart label from 2019 in my B2 someone thought 5w20 was a good idea.

Its been changed since though....i havent yet. Ive always used 10w40 in them
 
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15w-40 non synthetic diesel oil for all my engines, changed every 3000.
 

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