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2.3L ('02-'11) Help with spark plug removal 2010 4 cylinder


Garth Libre

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2021
Messages
171
City
Tennessee
Vehicle Year
2010
Transmission
Manual
I have the 4 cylinder engine with 4 spark plugs (not the 8). The plug socket won't fit down the recessed head, and not because it's not long enough, and not because I don't have a long enough extension. It won't fit because there is some kind of a plastic guard at the top. How do I remove the plastic/ rubber guard in order to fit a socket down there?
 
pics please.

did the valve cover gasket displace into the plug well?

just did plugs on my 2005 2.3 with no issues.
used a really long set of angled needle nose pliers to pull the wires /boot out.
 
I'll try to get some photos today. The plug wire came out with an angled needle nose pliers. The plug itself is down into the head about 3 inches but that wouldn't be a problem with an extension. The hard rubber ring assembly is at the top of the opening where the long plug boot sits and it seems glued in. Certainly, I'm not the only one to encounter this. The ring seems to be there as an added assurance that water can't get in the "plug tunnel".
 
20200526_192057.jpg


The valve cover is on the right, the spark plugs are down those holes in the center. What plastic pieces are you referring to? Nothing comes off, you just use a thin 5/8" spark plug socket.
 
speculation: perhaps for 2011 Ford put some kind of seal in there to keep oil from leaking past the valve cover into the hole?????

there is nothing like that on my 2005 2.3, nor a 2010 Fusion 2.5, nor a 2002 2.3

these engines are classified as "ultra low emissions" , maybe that seal was added for later specs????


EDIT: per an update from the O.P. there are no extra parts
 
Last edited:
I have to apologize to the board members. I've been working on cars for years and I had assumed that a Ford would have the larger spark plug socket as others I remember having worked on had. It turns out, of course, that the socket size was 5/8ths and the plug came right out. Sorry to have waisted so much time with questions assuming the wrong socket size and also previously asking why I couldn't pull up the boot. Now I'm using the curved pliers as suggested, and they work much better than the traditional boot puller.

The spark plug is an ITR5F13, they look clean, but the gap measures 0.065 inches or 1.5 mm.
 
Here’s a photo of my plug and equipment. The gap measures very large, .065
 
Dohhhh!!!

It happens... I think we are already over it.
 
Happens to the best of us, glad you got it solved. OEM gap is .051 in case you didn't know so yea those plugs were definitely due. Make sure you replace them with double platinum or iridium or you will be doing it again soon.
 
Happens to the best of us, glad you got it solved. OEM gap is .051 in case you didn't know so yea those plugs were definitely due. Make sure you replace them with double platinum or iridium or you will be doing it again soon.
I bought iridium plugs today, along with new wires, boot release and dialectic. The plugs actually all came gapped to .051. I've never bought plugs that came perfectly gapped before. They're always way off. This is something new.
 
I bought iridium plugs today, along with new wires, boot release and dialectic. The plugs actually all came gapped to .051. I've never bought plugs that came perfectly gapped before. They're always way off. This is something new.

Modern fine wire iridium plugs are very fragile and can be easily damaged by prying on them with a gapping tool so they almost always come pre-gapped and usually say on the box not to touch them.
 

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