Lift not all that expensive. Some you can unbolt and move. Concern about thickness of floor, might drill test hole and check, they want 4" minimum. Concern about placement, shop is 24x32 so not small but I do woodworking mainly so, can move machines out of way to work on truck but lift would hog space. 10' joists so limits height but should be fine, you can get seats to sit and work under it. Sick and tired of wood heat and 2 window a/c that still do not really cool it and 90F inside temp is too hot (was that the other day, already). Foam sheets over the joists would help a lot you can actually feel radiant heat from the sun on the roof. Heat/cool upgrade would be minimum 100k BTU gas furnace with a/c unit integral (obviously outside exchanger needed). Heat pump not good under about 45F I've had them, and electric expensive relative to gas, here, although they both are going up like everything else. Would have to trench gas line to the shop, gas company will do it for nothing but only if you get city permit and not about to get into that mess. Shop has its own 200A feed which is huge plus, doesn't affect house current when machines startup etc. Wood heat is cozy but takes a while to heat up and mess with it all the time, I want to be able to have -real- heat/cool unit on timer and just go out and work without all the side issues and the discomfort. Humidity changes also affect the wood expansion/contraction, things that fit one day don't fit the next, humidity can go crazy here. In summer when it's humid a/c dries the air and humidifier (intregal to the heat/cool unit) would regulate it. That means run water also when I run the gas line, it's all do-able, just money which I am cheap as can be that's the only reason it hasn't happened yet but I'm about ready to pull the trigger at this point. There's such a thing as being penny wise and pound foolish, if I counted up all the time (and acceptable temps) I "could have" saved with a good heat/ac unit I should have done it already. Got an estimate for the heat/cool, 8k, that's nuts, I think you can get the units for less than half that and do the install, I have 220 breakers already. Would also like real compressor, different issue, want it sufficient for painting which means a good big one, not horribly expensive but it all adds up. Then could use air tools. Lift and compressor originally intended for future Daytona coupe build, there the problem is it's too low to work on comfortably, so you want to raise it up a bit, there isn't all that much to do underneath but there is some. Coupe project is real pricey just a dream right now but lift/heat/cool/compressor would help me a lot in working on the Ranger, might even be necessary for my tentative plans for it. Have to finish 6 clavichords, about 35% done that project probably 1500 hrs left minimum (that supposedly finances the coupe), and looking at major Ranger upgrades, and ignoring about 10 partly done projects restore/upgrade in the house itself so too much on my plate but I'd rather have that than the other way sitting around being bored asking what do I do with my time (never enough of it).
If you're planning to spend a lot of time under the truck, get the lift, just do the research on what fits, is your floor ok for it, best ones (2 post or 4 post). Depends what you are doing, you don't want to remove a lot of weight one end then have the vehicle fall off, that's a disaster. Think of how much time you spend jacking up front/rear, putting jack stands, testing it's stable, and you still are crawling under it.
Yes I have put cardboard I *think* it looks a little bit red but not sure so am getting ready to totally clean/wipe down all things there per earlier post instructions and find it. If I run/drive the truck (so it's fully warm) and park it, look under, you see nothing, no drips coming, not quickly anyway, but then it sits overnight and there are like four or five drops the next morning so something isn't quite right. Do you have any link to the TSB? I'm going to be looking at the vents anyway because I see that I will be going through creeks a lot so I am running tubing up higher from the trans and diff vents so it doesn't suck in water and require me draining/refill it, that would be a huge pain that can be avoided. Thread wander per usual but that's fine it's all related one way or another.