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Help with oil drip


James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
Joined
Aug 31, 2021
Messages
1,891
City
Roanoke VA
Vehicle Year
1997 and 1999
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
Every time I park I get several drops of oil, it looks like, but not sure (it's not coolant). It seems to be about at the front axle maybe just right of center. That of itself doesn't tell me anything definite because stuff can drip on frame members and drip to another location, I know this from tracking rad leaks. My engine oil level doesn't change, it's always full, but even a bunch of drops probably doesn't change it.
Trans fluid doesn't seem to change either.
I'm going to check diff fluid levels, haven't yet, should have done it.
I've never had a vehicle that didn't drop a bit of oil here/there, but aside from it messing my shop floor, I'm concerned if it is indication of something needing a fix.
I got to get under it and wipe stuff off and see if I can track it. Question: what are likely sources?
 
Step 1:

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Ah... I think I have one of those, never could figure out what it was. Thanks!
 
Get under there and clean everything real good - axle beams, oil pan, engine, steering box, steering pump. Everything all the way up. Then watch to see where the leak originates from.

and, of course, a good power washer broom to clean the driveway, if you care.

BF9A8E17-E70F-4EB1-B226-362A340772DC.jpeg
 
Ah... I think I have one of those, never could figure out what it was. Thanks!
Quad methanol sprayer for running in front of your truck so you can do methanol indirect injection. The wheels really help to keep the methanol close to the hot pavement for better atomization.





But seriously, step one is to get under it and clean the absolute loving hell out everything with degreaser and an undercarriage sprayer.

I tend to prefer citrus degreaser, but dealers choice.
 
Lot of things that can leak there. Pinion seal and the seal between the differential & axle beam.... basically anything on the engine. If you can smell it when you shut it off, it's probably valve covers leaking onto the exhaust. If you can't smell it, it's below that - main seals, oil pan, lower intake, cam sensor, low oil sensor, oil filter itself, oil filter adapter... get under it and track it down.

I use citrus degreaser in a weed sprayer bottle, cut it about 50/50 with water. Works great.
 
I have Simple Green, and Gunk(?) engine degreaser. Both should work. Simple Green is amazing to remove resin build-up from saw blades, I put them in a 5-gal bucket led and soak them full strength they come out shiny.
Could just spray with gentle hose or garden sprayer. Will work it out. Thanks.
 
Is it possibly gear oil? There was an old TSB for a revised front differential vent to stop a fluid drip.
If you park on a sheet of cardboard overnight you should be able to tell what kind of liquid is leaking and more closely pin down where it's from. I miss having access to a lift.
 
Lift not all that expensive. Some you can unbolt and move. Concern about thickness of floor, might drill test hole and check, they want 4" minimum. Concern about placement, shop is 24x32 so not small but I do woodworking mainly so, can move machines out of way to work on truck but lift would hog space. 10' joists so limits height but should be fine, you can get seats to sit and work under it. Sick and tired of wood heat and 2 window a/c that still do not really cool it and 90F inside temp is too hot (was that the other day, already). Foam sheets over the joists would help a lot you can actually feel radiant heat from the sun on the roof. Heat/cool upgrade would be minimum 100k BTU gas furnace with a/c unit integral (obviously outside exchanger needed). Heat pump not good under about 45F I've had them, and electric expensive relative to gas, here, although they both are going up like everything else. Would have to trench gas line to the shop, gas company will do it for nothing but only if you get city permit and not about to get into that mess. Shop has its own 200A feed which is huge plus, doesn't affect house current when machines startup etc. Wood heat is cozy but takes a while to heat up and mess with it all the time, I want to be able to have -real- heat/cool unit on timer and just go out and work without all the side issues and the discomfort. Humidity changes also affect the wood expansion/contraction, things that fit one day don't fit the next, humidity can go crazy here. In summer when it's humid a/c dries the air and humidifier (intregal to the heat/cool unit) would regulate it. That means run water also when I run the gas line, it's all do-able, just money which I am cheap as can be that's the only reason it hasn't happened yet but I'm about ready to pull the trigger at this point. There's such a thing as being penny wise and pound foolish, if I counted up all the time (and acceptable temps) I "could have" saved with a good heat/ac unit I should have done it already. Got an estimate for the heat/cool, 8k, that's nuts, I think you can get the units for less than half that and do the install, I have 220 breakers already. Would also like real compressor, different issue, want it sufficient for painting which means a good big one, not horribly expensive but it all adds up. Then could use air tools. Lift and compressor originally intended for future Daytona coupe build, there the problem is it's too low to work on comfortably, so you want to raise it up a bit, there isn't all that much to do underneath but there is some. Coupe project is real pricey just a dream right now but lift/heat/cool/compressor would help me a lot in working on the Ranger, might even be necessary for my tentative plans for it. Have to finish 6 clavichords, about 35% done that project probably 1500 hrs left minimum (that supposedly finances the coupe), and looking at major Ranger upgrades, and ignoring about 10 partly done projects restore/upgrade in the house itself so too much on my plate but I'd rather have that than the other way sitting around being bored asking what do I do with my time (never enough of it).
If you're planning to spend a lot of time under the truck, get the lift, just do the research on what fits, is your floor ok for it, best ones (2 post or 4 post). Depends what you are doing, you don't want to remove a lot of weight one end then have the vehicle fall off, that's a disaster. Think of how much time you spend jacking up front/rear, putting jack stands, testing it's stable, and you still are crawling under it.
Yes I have put cardboard I *think* it looks a little bit red but not sure so am getting ready to totally clean/wipe down all things there per earlier post instructions and find it. If I run/drive the truck (so it's fully warm) and park it, look under, you see nothing, no drips coming, not quickly anyway, but then it sits overnight and there are like four or five drops the next morning so something isn't quite right. Do you have any link to the TSB? I'm going to be looking at the vents anyway because I see that I will be going through creeks a lot so I am running tubing up higher from the trans and diff vents so it doesn't suck in water and require me draining/refill it, that would be a huge pain that can be avoided. Thread wander per usual but that's fine it's all related one way or another.
 
I'm not sure on the location for your truck but on mine with the 4.0 SOHC, the oil filter is about in that spot on the passenger side. Unless I get the oil filter on there really snug, it tends to loosen up over time and drip. It is something to look for, though it might not be your problem.
 
I had my hired wrench look at the Ranger this is his diagnosis. He took pics and showed me, I don't have them yet. It's multiple leaks, but all small, nothing critical but need to be done, they will only get worse. Doesn't leak when running, probably because stuff warms up and expands.
1. Oil filter tight enough but it's leaking at the seal between the oil filter mount or whatever its official name is, and the engine. He says easy to replace.
2. Oil pan gasket leaking in, looks like, two places. Should be easy, except he said it appears that a couple bolts are behind/above the trans so I'll check shop manual about that.
3. Main seal is leaking. He says this is hardest of the list overall because you have to disconnect driveshaft (not hard) and more trans back a little to replace it. Again shop manual will have instructions I'm sure.
4. Valve cover gaskets should be replaced, couple small leaks (this probably explains mild smell I get, not actual smoke, but, kind of smoky smell).

That's it for leaks he says nothing surprising for 125k and 26 years old and nothing stopping me from driving it until they are done. He said looks like water pump was replaced at some point.
As to tune up (it starts/runs great, very gutsy) he says that stuff all looks original and probably fine but he said check Carfax (I have it) and see when was it done and if no record of it being done then probably want to do tune up (plugs, coils, plug wires, whatever else in in that).

So really right now all we are talking about is seals and gaskets that's not much for parts.
He was already over here to do the Lexus so glad I had him check that stuff.

Even though I have the shop manuals if you guys have any comments I'd like to hear them. Manuals can have errors plus it's always good to hear from someone who's done this stuff.
 
have you smelled/tasted it? Each oil/fluid has a distinctive difference and usually its pretty easy to tell what it is. Then when you figure what it came out of you know where to look
 
I had an oil drip that was coming from the drain plug. I replaced it but it still drips! :(
 
I had an oil drip that was coming from the drain plug. I replaced it but it still drips! :(
Threads may be damaged. Try a new copper sealing washer in it or try oversized repair plug.
 
I know Saabs, you ALWAYS replaced the copper washer every time. They crush (and seal), one-time use.
 

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