Help With Choke wiring

[Original_Ranger84]

I just did a duraspark converstion of sorts and the rest of the truck runs great except for the choke which I haven't figured out where to wire it...

My alternator has 3 hook ups on the back one is going to the battery and power distribution (Black/Orange) the other is going to the voltage regulator (Orange/light blue) and it is on the bottom white connector.

I think the top connector is the one to the stator windings or whatever, I left it blank and wasn't sure weather to hook the choke up to it or if it needed something else first.

My dad thinks I F-ed up my alt. by not having anything on it, and that it has been running on the battery for the last week and a half even though it still starts fine and I have had my off road lights on for atleast 20 + hours.

So is my alt. f**ked and can I hook the choke directly to the alt. right there? I believe it is the 65 amp but could still be the 40 amp.

 

[shadetree]

The diagram I have does not show the choke going to the alternator. On the 84 2.8, the choke is controlled by a solid state device with a relay. It is called the choke heater relay. It is monitored by pin 55 of the computer, purple wire.shady

 

[Original_Ranger84]

Hmmm... On the few diagrams I have they say it is a White/black wire that comes from a terminal on the alt. then splits with one going to the electric choke and another going off into the cab. And I don't have the computer any more anyway.

 

[shadetree]

Uh, kinda helps to mention modifications when posting. You can tie the choke directly to any switched voltage source, but it will open when the key is turned on, and continue till fully open.

Or, find the one wire on the alternator that doesn't have voltage until the engine starts, then tie the choke to this wire.shady

 

[Original_Ranger84]

I did the duraspark was the very first thing I mentioned, but thanks I'll measure for a voltage reading on the terminal.

 

[CRAZ28]

go with manual choke, that'll solve your wiring issues

 

[speedysprocket]

I have no computer, choke is connected directly to the alternator output that puts out voltage only while it's running. I left all the stock alternator wiring in place, just removed all the computer/pollution wiring.
Duraspark runs a lot better, but gas mileage suffers with that feedback card. Get a conventional 2 barrel or an Offy intake with a 4 barrel...
I think my Duraspark died on me, now I run Mallory dual points. No more electronics!
Good luck, Alex

 

[Original_Ranger84]

go with manual choke, that'll solve your wiring issues

I actually have a manual choke sitting in the engine bay but my dad said an auto choke would be better. So I might still hook it up be cause he said he fixed it and that I had it hooked up in the wrong place, when I checked it he'd hooked it up in the same place I did and it stopped working the second time and I sucked down 1/3rd of a tank in 25 miles. Time to go with the manual again I guess.

I have no computer, choke is connected directly to the alternator output that puts out voltage only while it's running. I left all the stock alternator wiring in place, just removed all the computer/pollution wiring.
Duraspark runs a lot better, but gas mileage suffers with that feedback card. Get a conventional 2 barrel or an Offy intake with a 4 barrel...
I think my Duraspark died on me, now I run Mallory dual points. No more electronics!
Good luck, Alex

I have a non feedback 2150 motorcraft on no the old feedback carb. with a vacuum advance distributor, sittin on the stock manifold with an offy. sittin in my garage no 4 barrel though, I think I am getting the Fuel Injection stuff from a t bird a friend has and that will go in soon hopefully cause I don't care how perfectly tuned the carb is and no matter how long you leave the block heater on for a carb will refuse to start in -30 degree weather, so FI is for me.

Oh while I'm at it my truck seems to have an Idle problem it stays running but when its cold it will run maybe 600 - 700 rpms then upto 1000 or so rpms and then back down and will repeat this every 10 to 20 seconds (vacuum leak maybe?) Because this also isn't a typical pinto duraspark I used a Gm modual for the ignition.
http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/tfi.htm this is the pages I got from the guy I got the carb. and dist. from.

 

[CRAZ28]

You won't be sorry you went with manual choke, you can control it and never have to worry about it not working. Plus you and your engine get some quality bonding time, so you can listen to eachother

 

[Original_Ranger84]

You won't be sorry you went with manual choke, you can control it and never have to worry about it not working. Plus you and your engine get some quality bonding time, so you can listen to eachother

Hah! yeah I think I'm gonna reattatch it today or tomarrow.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

You won't be sorry you went with manual choke, you can control it and never have to worry about it not working. Plus you and your engine get some quality bonding time, so you can listen to eachother

My dad said the same thing, with an automatic transmission by the time you know you need to push it in the engine is dead... the manual transmission will keep things moving until a mortal human has enough time to push in the choke.

He put one in his '74 Satellite back in the day and said he couldn't rip it out fast enough. Of course I didn't hear this story until I was reading the instructions on how to put one in my truck one night...

So the choke is supposed to work right with just switched power? Mine goes up to high idle (3k which I think is too high, but spec) as soon as I kick it off of that it all but refuses to run, it takes 4-6 starts to get out of the driveway on a cold day. The previous owner has the choke ran to the fuse panel and spliced into a on with the key acc.

 

[Original_Ranger84]

Yeah its just coming from the alternator but I am going with the manual choke, it worked with the feed back carb. I love it though I start it and it stays running and I might have to start it up once leaving my driveway, in -20 weather.