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HELP exhaust VS. steering box, round 1


Dishtowel

August OTOTM Winner
V8 Engine Swap
OTOTM Winner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
979
City
Grande Prairie , Alberta, Canada
Vehicle Year
1986
Transmission
Automatic
So, I got the 5.0L IN the Bronco today, the goal was to have engine mounts fabbed up. That sure didn't happen. Instead the exhaust and the steering started to 'bicker' at each other.
2929003_280_full.jpg



what have you guys done? do I need to acquire some aftermarket headers? can I move my steering box?
 
You need to either go out to the junkyard and find a manifold that hugs the engine a little better on at least the driver side. The other option is swap headers.

Matt
 
Looks like the motor is sittin too high. My tri-y's fit better than those manifolds. Better install the oil filter adapter first also before going further. I put em one before dropping the motor in.
 
You need to either go out to the junkyard and find a manifold that hugs the engine a little better on at least the driver side. The other option is swap headers.

Matt

Any tips on what to look for? Junk yards around here are crap. My favorite one is 5 hrs away. :(

Looks like the motor is sittin too high.

Not by much, it needs to go towards the drivers side, but it's hitting the steering box.

And about the oil filter adapter. The whole thing is coming out once I'm happy with engine mounts.
 
And about the oil filter adapter. The whole thing is coming out once I'm happy with engine mounts.

It's better to put that stuff on before you make the mounts. That way there's no clearance suprises when it all goes back together.
 
It looks to be settin about right as far as side to side. When I did mine, I centered it between the fenders, using the innner fender lip as a reference. Don't use the frame rails, they're not centered under the body.
 
i have been referring to the center of the core support and the firewall.

which frame rail will be closer to the engine? passenger one?

Has anybody used any of these in a 4x4 truck??
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=HED%2D88400
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HED%2D89500&N=700+115&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ADD%2D717044%2DNP&N=700+4294908331+4294840126+4294923429+4294839039+4294907827+4294907043+115&autoview=sku

if someone has pls let me know your experience and how the header VS steering box clearance was.
 
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yo need a set of van manifolds, they will hug the block and u wont have the clearance issues clarance
 
input on engine postion?

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P1270390.jpg

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it would appear that there is not room for both stock headers to be on at the same time, I have the passenger one off
 
motor looks too low. Oil pan looks like its resting on the crossmember. Do u have a remote oil filter? Looks kinda like it wont have room to screw on..might have to bring the motor back alittle. Just some tips. Its kinda hard to tell by the pics.
 
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yo will need to run the van manifolds if u want to be able to clear without notching the frame on the passenger side, or u will need to get a set of conversion headers and mount the engine high enough up to clear everything.
 
i used a stock mid 70's f150 drivers side manifold and a stock mustang II pass. side ...hugs the block nice and tight
 
Like i said before, I centered the motor between the fender lips, and also lined the tailshaft to the pinion on the rearend, so actually the engine/trans centerline is at an angle, (slightly)in mine. You can't tell it from looking though. Doing it the way you are, the tailshaft will be out of line with the rear pinion.As for the front to rear elevation, I used a carpenter's level settin on the carb pad. You can use the upper to lower EFI pad for this. Truck needs to be as level as possible in doing this. I think the frame rails are offset toward the passenger side in the Rangers
 
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