Help! dana 44 hi tops not clearing calipers!


SeanWilson

10+ Year Member

Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
129
Points
1,601
City
Southeastern Iowa
Vehicle Year
1998
Transmission
Manual
Hey guys, lets just say i’m am in the process of building a Hermaphrodite axle to go onto my hermaphrodite pickup.

SORRY AHEAD OF TIME FOR THE SHORT ESSAY, i believe if your gunna throw out your 2cents its good to know the back ground and whole story and situation.

little back ground, about two years ago i started up on my first 4x4 build, im not a newb, went through a rebuild and restore with my old 2wd ’82 chevy shortwide with the stock 6.2L diesel (2/4 drop and all the body work and interior). So i nabbed a dana 30 for my ranger because i had a number of friends running them in all sorts of jeeps with 35’s and 33’s.

So finally after i finished everything and completed the entire pickup, i realized that the dana 30 is a complete pile of SH*T! I hate the wheel bearings, the balljoints, the weak ass C’s, and full time 4wheel drive is not fun when half your driving is on the street.:shok:
But since i just dumped $150 (R&P) $100 (master install kit) and $250 for having a shop instal and spec it, (i was not comfortable doing it on my DD) i am kind of stuck with it. UNTIL i came across a guy about 45 min away from me.:bawling:

I nabbed a Ford 1977.5 Dana 44 HD 3/4 ton leaf sprung high pinion housing and flat top knuckles, and after talking to scott, he hooked me up with; Ford 1979 Dana 44 coil sprung 1/2 ton spindles, stub shaft, rotors, outers, outer bearings, spindle nuts and matching nuts and bolts. All for $150.:headbang:
........I did not not get, inner axle shafts, diff cover, carrier, R&P.

So for now, i am planning on building the hybrid dana 30/44. Cutting the C’s off the dana 30 and tossing everything from there out and replacing it with the dana 44. I will be cutting off the dana 44 C’s, sleeving the 3” C’s down to the 2-1/2” with a 3” O.D. 1/4” wall tube, then tack welding everything in place and in the correct angles while triple and quadruple checking every measurement, then slap it all together, multiple times before i take it to my uncles welding shop to get everything burned in with a high nickel stick weld. I am also planning on building a axle truss to secure and strengthen everything since i am running 35x12.50x15’s and have modified the axle.

:dunno:.....................NOW FOR MY ONLY ISSUE.............:pissedoff:
(that i have currently run into)

The 1977.5 HD 3/4 ton dana 44 hightop (knuckles & C’s) came stock with the dual piston brake caliper, while the 1979 Dana 44 coil sprung 1/2 ton came stock with the single piston brake caliper.
SO WHILE EVERYTHING ELSE on this all fits and slides together like butter and like it was made to work together, i can not for the life of me get the (1/2 ton) single piston brake caliper to fit with the (3/4 ton) knuckle .:icon_confused:
.........
........The only way i can see these fitting would be to cut out a section of the knuckle (where the bottom of the caliper hits) with a cuttoff wheel on the grinder making straight lines. Cut all 3 sides (~3”x4” square piece), flip it so instead of the rounded arched side going up (away from axle shaft or center) it would become con-caved and the rounded arched now facing axle center/shaft. to hopefully allow for the clearance i need to run the calipers.:icon_welder:

UNLESS anybody else has any other options or ideas!!!!
 

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yes, im well aware they do not fit right now, thats why i am asking if anyone else has any opinions of this.

Like should or shouldnt i cut and modify the knuckle to accept it, or if there was a dual piston caliper that can work with the 1/2 ton system.

bc i know for a fact the everything else fits together and operates
 
There is no way to run Ford 1/2 brakes and have flat tops.....unless you buy Ried Racing knuckles.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
 
Or find a 78 F150 super cab driver knuckle, but they never made a Ford 1/2 ton passenger side flat top.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk
 

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