Full sized Ford guys

[Shran]

I'll be interested to see what you find, my '86 F150 does something similar although I have done exactly zero engine work other than lower intake and valve cover gaskets. Starts great cold, runs great, starter really drags when the engine is warm.

I thought it was probably the battery since it's from '09 and has been frozen with zero volts multiple times, but nope, not that. I will probably throw a starter in it and see what happens - pretty sure it has never been replaced, got the truck from my grandpa in 2004, had 55k on it at that point and it's got just over 100k now and I have never touched the starter.

I haven't seen anyone suggest replacing the battery cables - I've seen cables corroded way down inside the insulation that do weird crap like this. Clean up the grounds while you're at it, especially the fuel pump/ECM ground wire that comes off the negative battery terminal.

 

[Ozwynn]

Battery cables are new. 0g to the relay and then to the starter and two 4g grounding straps. I got cranking power for days and all the grounds I could find and get to have been cleaned. Today I am going to troubleshoot the ECT if I can find the intructuons

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Im still saying ECM.

 

[fastpakr]

Why? I see nothing whatsoever that would point to the ECM vs a simple wiring fault.

 

[fastpakr]

Battery cables are new. 0g to the relay and then to the starter and two 4g grounding straps. I got cranking power for days and all the grounds I could find and get to have been cleaned. Today I am going to troubleshoot the ECT if I can find the intructuons

I saved these notes the other day regarding the ECT:

Check the signal voltage at the connector with the key on, engine off. Should be approximately 5.0v.

Then, check the resistance of the sensor cold. Should be between 58,750 to 40,500 ohms.

Plug in the harness connector and warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Then, unplug and check the resistance of the sensor hot. Should be 3,600 to 1,840 ohms

Also, see the attached image for off vehicle tests.

 

[Ozwynn]

Thank you sir

 

[Ozwynn]

4.67v KOEO
22k ohms at whatever temp the engine is at because it’s not cold. I went to the gas station at noon:30

But, it right now is at the temp that it restarts at. The ECT plug was loose. It just pulled out, didn’t have to mess with tabs. Tried to plug it back in and it didn’t feel like it plugged all the way in. Removed the orange weather proofing thingy and the connector plugged all the way in.
I have to leave for a doctors appointment in an hour so when I get there I will see if it restarts. If it doesn’t is it ok to suspect the autozone distributor is bad?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I had the rubber weatherstrip cause me a no-start for almost 4 months before I found it. I had taped all the connectors together as I put the wiring back together so figured they were all good. Turns out the weatherstrip dries and then kind of pushes the connector apart just enough to cause problems. Now I always use dielectric grease to prevent that from happening again.

 

[Ozwynn]

Um ok so..... battery light is on steady under 3000 RPMs but I’m still charging at 14.7v and 95a at idle. After a 1/2 hour or so I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep the engine from dying and the oil gauge bounces erratically like the volt meter did before the alternator died. There had to be a ground I can’t find that is loose or needs to be cleaned and could it be over heating? My temp sender doesn’t work so I don’t have a clue to how hot engine getting. I haven’t replaced it because I was going to instal a mechanical gauge.

Something is causing the electronics to go haywire when the engine is hot.....
it takes me 27 min to get to work and 35 to get home.... I can get to work before it dies and get home possibly before it dies.

If I didn’t have to take my 18y son to work with me I would just ride the Harley..... but it doesn’t have a rear seat or rear pegs.

My options:
1 keep pulling out my hair trying to find this
2 put the engine in the kid’s Honda Accord so he can take his own ass to work
3 fix my Honda V65 Magna (needs handle bars, brake/clutch masters, and a battery) so he can ride on the back....
4 Acquire a car payment and sell the truck (anything I need the truck for I can do with my minivan and a 5x9 utility trailer)
But this truck is causing me more stress than I am allowed. My blood pressure 30 min after I got to my appointment was 200/100.... last week at the cardiologist it was 116/55..... difference is I took my Harley last week... this week I also had to bring my daughter because she was due for her depo (whole other thing causing me stress)

What is not an option.... putting a rear seat on my Harley or even riding it in the bad weather.

 

[fastpakr]

What I got out of that is that you own a V65 and aren't riding it. Fix the Magna!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[Ozwynn]

What I got out of that is that you own a V65 and aren't riding it. Fix the Magna!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Just bought it yesterday for $100 as a restoration project... and actually I have 2 of them. 1 is a complete 85 but the handlebars are bent and the other is an 83 basket case.... basically a bare frame with 3 tubs of parts and partially disassembled engine with a broken rocker

 

[Ozwynn]

I wonder if this makes a difference......

Ford says I need a gray TFI module
The pic of the Duralast Gold distributor I bought shows a gray TFI module on it.
The one that came on the distributor autozone sent me is black.
The TFI test sheet says gray and black don’t mix.

 

[Ozwynn]

I had the wrong TFI module. Autozone exchanged me a gray module for the black one on the distributor they sold me. Runs like top.. but I had to set base timing at 14* to get it to run right... but that could just be me being off by a tooth and the cam timing being slightly off. I never seem to be able to get the cam timing perfect.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I had the wrong TFI module.

Thanks for the update.