Full sized Ford guys

[alwaysFlOoReD]

But the previous owner said he never used the front tank because he couldn’t get it to fill.... like the Vent is screwed up.... at least 11 years old.....

I bet the gas in the tank is basically varnish.
Not sure why it would run good cold but not warm, perhaps engine management doesn't use the o2 sensor till warm? meaning it runs rich until then?

 

[Ozwynn]

I’m pretty sure the timing isn’t advancing, it’s will run all day at idle just fine. Give it throttle and it spits and back fires through the intake.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Spitting and backfire is a sign of a lean condition. If the tank had crap maybe some injectors are plugged.

 

[Ozwynn]

So on the list for today.
1. Remove spark plugs to check for lean condition
2. Compression test
3. Change fuel filter
4. Unplug O2 sensor and see if it runs after warmed up
5. Vacuum test
6. Fuel pressure test (high pressure and low pressure)
7. Cut out catylitic converter

Stand by for pics of the spark plugs

 

[Ozwynn]

Score 1 for Dustin. Played with the selector switch for the tanks and the fuel pump was really weak in both positions... kept toggling the switch and got the fuel pump on really strong on the rear tank. Let it run for 20 minutes and no spitting and back firing when I rev it up. It misses a little at idle but I could still be having a timing issue or fuel filter issue.

Now back to the original issue of hard starting when warm

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Score 1 for Dustin. Played with the selector switch for the tanks and the fuel pump was really weak in both positions... kept toggling the switch and got the fuel pump on really strong on the rear tank. Let it run for 20 minutes and no spitting and back firing when I rev it up. It misses a little at idle but I could still be having a timing issue or fuel filter issue.

Now back to the original issue of hard starting when warm

Even a broken clock is right twice a day

I know that starter is new, but id really, really, point the finger at that. The last 2 starters ive bought were garbage, the one on the 77 made it 3 weeks, the one for the wifes escape made it 2 days.

 

[Ozwynn]

Change fuel filter
Pulled out the starter and took it to ford to be bench tested, tested good. Had 20” vacuum at idle and 38 psi fuel pressure on the rail at idle.
Got a video of how it runs now

https://youtu.be/TKNVTQsE8l0

But to get it to run I had to set the base timing at 20* btdc with the spout out. Ran it for 20 min and tried to start it starter still drags when warm

https://youtu.be/_Ej45Xbimnw

Unplug the spout and it fired right up, no dragging.

Theory 1. Timing chain is off by a tooth or 2.
Theory 2. The PCM is junk.... specially since I am not getting ANY codes

Drove it 20 miles in the mountains and it is running 1000% better but still slight pinging under load.... but no back firing.

 

[Andy D]

BDAB haz vacuum gauge ? Aftre my timing light broke , I just turned 'strib until I got the highest vacuum. This is on a Jeep 360 with a carb. Pinging during your mtn run, tells me its too far advanced.

 

[Ozwynn]

BDAB haz vacuum gauge ? Aftre my timing light broke , I just turned 'strib until I got the highest vacuum. This is on a Jeep 360 with a carb. Pinging during your mtn run, tells me its too far advanced.

I have hand held vacuum pump that I bought to bleed the clutch on my land cruiser 10 years ago.... but it also works as a gauge

 

[Ozwynn]

Still having this issue.

Regulator plug was melted so I replaced it and upgraded the alternator to a 130a 3g from a 95 Mustang since the alternator was dying anyways. Knock sensor is new, I have check engine lights when I turn the key on but I get absolutely no codes from the computer... not even a code saying it passed the self test. Idle air control valve only comes on when cold right? Got no input from coolant temp sensor.

Timing advances fine when engine is running but shut it off and try to restart it then it’s like the timing isn’t adjusting.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Still having this issue.

Regulator plug was melted so I replaced it and upgraded the alternator to a 130a 3g from a 95 Mustang since the alternator was dying anyways. Knock sensor is new, I have check engine lights when I turn the key on but I get absolutely no codes from the computer... not even a code saying it passed the self test. Idle air control valve only comes on when cold right? Got no input from coolant temp sensor.

Timing advances fine when engine is running but shut it off and try to restart it then it’s like the timing isn’t adjusting.

Wonder if the ECM is toast?

 

[Ozwynn]

That’s always a thought in the back of my mind

 

[rusty ol ranger]

That’s always a thought in the back of my mind

Looks like you can get used ones under 100 bucks, refurbished for 150 or so, might be worth it just to rule that out.

 

[fastpakr]

Still having this issue.

Regulator plug was melted so I replaced it and upgraded the alternator to a 130a 3g from a 95 Mustang since the alternator was dying anyways. Knock sensor is new, I have check engine lights when I turn the key on but I get absolutely no codes from the computer... not even a code saying it passed the self test. Idle air control valve only comes on when cold right? Got no input from coolant temp sensor.

Timing advances fine when engine is running but shut it off and try to restart it then it’s like the timing isn’t adjusting.

What are you using to test? Do you get any of the responses to the test like the brake on off indicator, cylinder count pulse, etc? Also, are you able to make it start a KOER test?

 

[Ozwynn]

Found a broken wire at the test plug. But my scanner may be suspect.... going to locate a known good scanner, the last time mine was used was on my 91 explorer that is long gone maybe 14 years ago