Is it cost-effective to rebuild this truck?

[Lefty]

Very true.

Another perspective, is that some people simply prefer older styling, the simpler "retro" driving experience, and the easier-to-maintain older technologies whether it's vehicles 20 years, 30 years or 50 years old.

My "newest" vehicles are 31 years old. I'm not a slave to a car dealer, mechanic or a monthly payment. And I don't worry about getting around, either.

It's mainly a thing that some of us dinosaurs prefer having what we grew up with and what we know, but you do see the occasional young person really digging driving something that is older than they are.

An older vehicle also makes for a great toy or second car.

With me, simpler is better. You can't buy 'em like that anymore. I don't want ANY nanny technology forced on me; I hate touch screens, and I have very little faith in current design, materials and workmanship when it comes to a new vehicle. And they ain't exactly cheap.

There are of course downsides with older ones- like parts availability, and finding a competent mechanic on things beyond your ability. Just don't look at it as a profitable investment; an older vehicle is still just transportation, but it is good, too, for pressing your "happy button".

If driving, owning and loving an older vehicle attracts you, by all means go for it. It'll be an experience, and you'll probably be a happier, better person for it.

Exactly. Spend twenty thou and fart around in the garage with your buddies drinking cheap beer out of the cooler. Before you know it, you got brand new for half the price. You may never turn a profit, but you will still save. After all, those new Fords cost twice as much.

 

[Lefty]

I would say your answer is dependent on how comfortable you are working on your own vehicle. 246k is not much in the grand scheme of 4.0's if it has been maintained. 3-400k+ is not uncommon.

Skid plates are not available to buy as far as I know. They are not hard to fabricate but you need a welder and the other accoutrements.

Harbor Freight and Smittybilt winches are really good for the price. Affordable Offroad sells bumpers for your truck I think. If you go with that, I would recommend getting a winch with synthetic rope rather than steel cable.



There are enough differences in 98+ seats and tracks that it's almost not even worth attempting to put older seats in those trucks. However anything up to 2011 should be a direct bolt in and there are a lot of those around. I think sometime around 08 or so they got kind of complicated with airbags and stuff though.

My little Vulcan is doing just fine, but even if it were to die tomorrow, I would gladly replace it, or better yet, upgrade to something a little bigger, like the 4.0.

Rust seems to be the most important concern on older cars and trucks, especially up north here. It's not just cosmetic either. Junkyard Rangers show Ford paint just didn't last, especially on the frame. The windshield sealant is also a concern. Water gets behind it and opens up pinholes, then rots the cab from the inside out. The damage shows on the bottom around the rear of the door sills and maybe the rocker panels. A lot of Rangers over twenty years old have this problem. You might not even know it. It doesn't hurt to get the windshield replaced and recaulked/glued, should you see rust down below.

 

[Lefty]

As with anything, there are pluses and minuses to them. The rebuilding and reconditioning of the truck is going to be your call. From what you describe, I would.

The original Rangers can get into a lot of places that a lot of other vehicles can't because they are so small. The SLA front suspension is limiting but can get you into and out of a lot of places still. Not as well as a Ranger with TTB, but it will still do it. You just need to set the truck up right and know what you are doing.

The 6 foot bed still works pretty well for truck bed camping, though it will be pretty tight. I've done it in my 2011 and will continue to do it.

It's rather something that actually fits inside an old fashioned garage, parallel parks in a sedan sized parking space, and gets reasonably good mileage too.

 

[JohnnyO]

Basically as long as the body and frame don't have rust, everything else is fixable.
The 4.0 OHV has less power than the 4.0 SOHC but will last longer with less problems.
I would just put a rear main seal in and roll with it, but.....
Since the transmission has to come out you may want to think about rebuilding it unless it's running perfectly. With that mileage it's probably been rebuilt once already.
I would change the lube in the axles, tranny, and transfer case. Pro Tip: Go to a Valvoline Quicky Lube for the front, they use a suction pump through the fill plug, it's really the only way to do it.
Change the coolant and fuel filter if you haven't already.
If you can find manual seats from an Explorer or Sport Trac they should bolt right in. When I traded my 02 Ranger on an 05 Sport Trac the first thing I noticed was how much better the seats were.
The Off-Road Package was fairly common at the time and I would think you'd be able to find skidplates in a junkyard. '98 and early '99 ORP's also had a front skidplate between the bumper and radiator support.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

'98 and early '99 ORP's also had a front skidplate between the bumper and radiator support.

That front “skidplate” they got was a piece of about 12-14 gauge stainless sheet metal… Not anything substantial

 

[bobbywalter]

I might get a lot of flack for saying this, but I'm going to say it anyway. It's not really cost effective to restore any car or truck that is over twenty years old. It's got no bluebook value whatsoever. All that time and money will never ever make your truck worth any more that what it is now.

reread all of your posts thus far and think about that statement.

 

[JohnnyO]

That front “skidplate” they got was a piece of about 12-14 gauge stainless sheet metal… Not anything substantial

Better than my '02 Off-Road had though, which was nothing.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Better than my '02 Off-Road had though, which was nothing.

Might keep some weeds and sticks out of things, maybe some mud. Definitely not a log, stump or rock because it’s not very strong at all. If it would cave your bedside in, it will cave that in. I have a good one sitting around, it might go back on my green Ranger just for giggles when I’m done with this round of work on it.

 

[Curious Hound]

"Cost effective" is a relative term. It is relative to your goals and resources. This thread covers the whole rainbow of answers. But it comes down to what you want from the truck.

Is it cost effective to flip for profit? No.
Is it cost effective as a daily driver? Maybe, but not likely. Is it cost effective as a show truck? No, mostly because it just isnt6very unique or special as a show truck.
Is it cost effective for the purpose you stated? I think so.

You could wait and search and wait and search for the "perfect, cost effective truck". But you would waste a lot if time and miss some fun opportunities that you could have with this truck. In my humble opinion, it's a keeper.

My '93 has not been cost effective. But it sure has been fun. I just drove it 3,881 miles to Colorado and back a few weeks ago, in August. The trip was a blast. By the way, I spent a Sunday replacing a rear wheel seal and inspecting my rear differential in Junction Creek Campground, right there in your neck of the woods. My tired little 3.0l v6 performed about as good as could be expected. Was it perfect? No. But I love my little Ranger.

on the way to Yankee Girl mine

ophir Pass

not my truck. This was taken at a service station in Durango. I can post the address later. Skid plates come in all designs. (Don't steal roadsigns, though)