front end binding up

[bergz0]

okay guys, i have a 93' ranger 4.0 4x4. last year i replaced the brake booster, master cylinder, brake calipers, rotors and pads, wheel bearings its. i just got done putting in new hub bearings, u-joints, and all required seals. when i start my truck up in the morning and i go to move it the front end is literally locked up. i try going in first and it is so tight that the truck bogs down and shuts off. this has only started in the last couple months. when i had the front diff out of the truck i checked to make sure everything was okay, it looked like new inside of it. when i drive down the road i can feel the truck being held back its so bound up. with everything i replaced im lost on what to look for next. any help would be appreciated guys. thanks!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I would start by putting the front axle on jackstands. Make sure the transfer case is in neutral and then figure out where the bind is. If the hubs are in "free" then that isolates the drive axles, diff and TC from the brakes and bearings.

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

You should be able to spin the front drive shaft by hand with it in neutral and the hubs unlocked. Are you driving it with the hubs locked in? How tight did you tighten the spindle nuts? You may have tightened them too much.


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[bergz0]

Driving with the hubs free. How tight should the innr and outer but for my warn manual hubs be?

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

Just tight enough that there's no play in the rotor when you push and pull the top/bottom. It should spin easily but not freely. If it spins freely there will be sideways slop and the bearings will wear out faster.


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[bergz0]

alright guys thank you for your input. i will check into it and report back.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Rowdy has good points. But better slightly loose than slightly tight. When they get warm they expand and can bind. Torqued would be best. I believe its inch pounds for final torque.

sent while sitting on the throne

 

[bergz0]

any idea how many ft pounds?

 

[Rowdy Fitzgerald]

Idk what the torque is. I've always done it like I said earlier. I'm too cheap to buy a torque wrench.


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[alwaysFlOoReD]

It looks like I was wrong on the torque, it says 35 - 45 ft-lbs;

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana28Rebuild.shtml

I've always done the 35 - 45 ft-lbs but have also loosened the nut and brought it back to finger tight [without moving the wheel or rotor] to allow just a little heat expansion room. Its been awhile and my memory aint great, make sure to check my figures.

Richard

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Another area to check is the caliper slide pins and pads. Make sure there is lubricant on the pins and that the pads aren't cockeyed.

 

[bergz0]

will do. just put new pads on last night. but its been doing it for awhile now. the slide pins your talking about are the half ass junk 2 piece metal with rubber insulator in the middle. thats the only thing holding the caliper on. those need to be lubricated with the purple stuff?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I use neversieze on my slide pins. Don't know what is purple stuff?

 

[bergz0]

idk just some overpriced brake lubricant they sell at the auto parts store

 

[Mark_88]

The purple stuff is good...I've used it and my truck went three years before I had to even look at the brakes or sliders...

Did you replace the flex lines when you did all that other work? I had mine causing the front rotors/calipers to bind because the inside was worn causing it to act like a one-way valve...the brakes will eventually release for a bit...but they always would seize up at every stop.

Not hard to replace them...and not expensive either...