Four channel sub and component wiring

[fastpakr]

factor in about another $50 for amp wiring, rca's and speaker wire. remember to search ebay for lower prices.

The prices I quoted are actually from eBay. The only thing I didn't figure in was using the Live cashback option. If you run across any cheaper sources I'd love to use them. I'll dig around the garage, but I believe I've still got the wiring kit for a similar sized amp I had years ago, and I've got a ton of 12 gauge speaker wire from my home theater. Should be able to grab two sets of these to finish everything out.

 

[Pistons23]

not sure if you wanna stray away from the 4 channel amp, but if you do heres a way to save some money without sacrificing power.

ONE of these for the front components $49.99+shipping

and ONE of these for your subs $69.99+shipping

all of his amps come with a 30 day warranty and he has a good reputation over a diymobileaudio.com

i would imagine with shipping it wouldnt be more than $150. that would save you almost $100.

for wiring all youll need is:
2ft 1/0awg power wire
fused distribution block
25ft 4awg power wire
2ft 4awg ground wire
2 sets of rca's(aprox 10-15ft each)
remote turn on wire
fuses
16awg speaker wire
shouldnt be more than $60 at knukoncpetz.com

 

[fastpakr]

There are two reasons I had been leaning towards a single amp. One was to eliminate wiring in a fuse block (I don't have anything against it other than simplicity, though) and the other was keeping as much as possible hidden. I can definitely mask a single amp mounted against the back wall, but I'm not sure what I'd do with a second. Would one/both of those fit under the seats?

 

[fastpakr]

What about these subs instead? At 2 ohms, I should be able to feed them 150 watts each, and they're only 3 3/8" deep.

 

[Ranger#1]

1/0 awg is nottt necesarry run 4awg all the way from the batt to the cab that way you can have the ability to expand do the same with the ground

 

[Pistons23]

There are two reasons I had been leaning towards a single amp. One was to eliminate wiring in a fuse block (I don't have anything against it other than simplicity, though) and the other was keeping as much as possible hidden. I can definitely mask a single amp mounted against the back wall, but I'm not sure what I'd do with a second. Would one/both of those fit under the seats?

you might be able to get one under the seat. take a look at the measurements and then head to your truck with a ruler/tape measure and find out.

 

[fastpakr]

Will do. It's going to be VERY tight, but we'll see.

 

[Pistons23]

What about these subs instead? At 2 ohms, I should be able to feed them 150 watts each, and they're only 3 3/8" deep.

wont sound as good as a conventional 8" sub. it needs a .4cf sealed box, so its going to need a slightly bigger box than the jbl gto84.

 

[fastpakr]

OK. The box I sketched out will be between .35 and .4cf.

 

[Destroyer000]

you want to run as little wire as possible.. i think running that one sub would be a good choice. this way your not sacrificing room one sub behind a seat an amp behind the other. the ohms are there so that you have different wiring options more or less. if you run the front speakers off a channel, the rear speakers off a channel an the sub off a channel your gonna have a nice sounding system that wont break the bank. i installed an alpine fr300 amp in my buddies reg cab an hes got 2 12inch cadence shallow mount mallet subs running off 2 channels bridged an the front speakers are wired parallel to achieve a 2ohm load an so is the back .

 

[fastpakr]

I don't understand your logic behind using only three channels. The way you're talking about wiring it, you'd create a mono system that allows front to rear fade rather than a stereo system. The 8" sub box will fit behind either seat without them being tilted or slid forward. A properly sized 12" box won't fit anywhere out of the way. I don't mind running wiring, it's a tiny truck and I don't have any problem with pulling the carpet out of the way to make it as hidden as possible.

 

[Darkhorse88]

if your box is .35 then i would recccomend RE's i have mine in .35 and they pound.

 

[Pistons23]

I don't understand your logic behind using only three channels. The way you're talking about wiring it, you'd create a mono system that allows front to rear fade rather than a stereo system. The 8" sub box will fit behind either seat without them being tilted or slid forward. A properly sized 12" box won't fit anywhere out of the way. I don't mind running wiring, it's a tiny truck and I don't have any problem with pulling the carpet out of the way to make it as hidden as possible.

yeah it makes no sense to have a 4 channel and wire it as described in the post above yours.

heres what it would look like

channel 1- front speakers(that would be to single 4ohm loads on a single channel. youd get either a 2 or 8ohm load. also there wouldnt be any seperation between left and right)

channel 2-rear speakers(same as channel 1)

channel 3-subwoofer(only getting half the power it could be getting if it were bridged off hte rear channels)

channel 4-completely wasted and untapped power
________________________________________________________

so just stick to using hte front channels for your components and use the rear channels for your subs. if you plan on only using one, then bridge the rear channels for more power.

 

[fastpakr]

Thanks - that makes perfect sense. I'll probably start with a single box and bridge the rears just to save some cost. Might be happy with that long term anyway.

 

[Pistons23]

https://www.powermaxelectronics.com/products/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=225&idcategory=
use coupone code MAXXA at checkout for 30% off. thats $90.60 off a $302 amp. wont be able to get more power for your money at that price