Found a motor,is it a good start?

[RangerSVT]

Same here, I used the transdapt kit, no leaks, just make sure the adapter that goes on the block is nice and tight, and lubricate the O-ring on the adapter before you thread it on the block...
SVT

 

[Teddyzee]

...And I'm using the relatively cheap FordMotorsport kit. Uses rubbing lines and hose clamps, no leaks in three years. I'd like to have nice hoses made, but it's not a priority.

 

[The_Dealer]

Will my current explorer 4.0 radiator be suffiecient in cooling the 5.0? I'm thinking of a summit hi flow water pump, and 2000 something cfm electric fan. I figured I would use the 5.0 accesories(a/c, ps, and a higher amp alt) will there be any problems with that? I'm thinking of keeping the tfi disty and getting a holley tbi kit right off the bat, considering by the time I buy a new duraspark disty and truck avenger carb it would only be a couple hundred bux more to go tbi. Don't really want to keep the efi that's already on the motor, I don't feel like f'ing around with much wiring. Not gonna be a powerhouse so tbi is simple for easy cold starts and drivability, and hopefully better mpg's then carb

 

[baddad457]

The 4.0 radiator isn't going to clear the water pump of the Econoline's FEAD. That's the sticking point of a Ranger swap. It's not the width of the motor that's tight, but the length (firewall to radiator) The radiator will need to be tucked into the radiator support to leave room for a fan. LAst time I looked even a TBI setup (new) was about 4 times the cost of a new carb. The distributor's only going to set you back about $70 for a reman.

 

[RangerSVT]

Yes, the stock explorer rad will be enough to cool the 5.0L (if you have the 2 core, not the single core), there are quite a few running it, myself and TeddyZee included. Mine gets a little warm when pulling a heavy load (6k+) or when I'm offroading, but I'm running two 10" fans with no shroud, so about a 1/3 of my radiator's surface is not being pulled through the fans. On road with a 180* thermostat my engine stays about 185-190...
SVT

 

[The_Dealer]

I have the 2 core one. I plan on the short style fox body water pump. Still have to tuck the radiator? I'm using the summit elec fan that is the exact same as the kit for rbv's that flexalite offers. I've been searching but couldn't really find any good pics of a tucked radiator

 

[Teddyzee]

If you don't want to tuck the rad (it's very simple to do) use the SN95/Explorer timing cover and either the Explorer water pump (shortest) or the SN95 Mustang water pump.

Here is the truck of gt40 from RPS. His uses the SN/Ex timing cover and SN water pump- actually harvested from the last of the Cougar 5.0s...
He did move the rad slightly, but it is not tucked in. You can see these short setups still leave enough room for a mechanical fan. They are very, very short. And the Explorer pump is much shorter than this one.

The sn95 water pump requires using specific accessory brackets.
The Explorer pump requires specific brackets, and the Explorer only (or lightly modded '95+ Ranger) Alternator, and Explore power steering pump (separate pump and reservoir)

 

[The_Dealer]

The guy I got the motor from has a complete expo 5.0 with warped heads I can get parts from that might be the easiest route,

 

[The_Dealer]

Anyone have some links of what's involved in tucking the rad? I do offroad this thing so I want it to be somewhat sturdy. I do like the idea of tucking the rad out of the way

 

[Teddyzee]

...

My rad takes the place of the AC condenser. The rad has two mount tabs on the side of it, these usually sit in a mount pad on the truck frame. The truck frame drops in front of this pad, toward the bumper.
I cut a thin horizontal slice out of the upper core support (totally out of sight) for a little extra height. This allowed my to slide the rad in front of the original frame pads, sitting the rad mount thing right on the dropped section of the frame. The rad is pressed right against the core support. (it's bolted to the core support, through the front, with rubber bushings. There are rubber bushings under the rad mount and frame, too) I remember trimming those rad mount/plastic wing things slightly.
And I made a slightly larger slice under the core support for the cap. It can be removed easily.

Hope the pictures help:

Dark and rusty:

View from the other side:

 

[The_Dealer]

Sweet thanks