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Flex-A-Lite Fan


DeanMLFlame

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2008
Messages
168
City
Tumwater, WA
Vehicle Year
1984, 1991
Transmission
Automatic
I want to remove my clutch fan on my 91 Ranger 4.0 to free up a few ponies and put on a Flex-a-lite 15" electric fan...just wondering if people who did this incountered any problems with removal and install.....also my oil pressure does not like to stay in one place..one day it will be right in the middle of the "NORMAL" and other days it's on the left side of "O"...do i need to be concerned.
 
To be honest, a properly working stock fan clutch works very well. It doesn't take much to operate, unless it has seized on. You'll then hear the fan roar as RPM's go up.
 
do a search...the subject of e-fans has been covered a million times on this site and anyone that knows anything about physics can tell you there is no increase in power or mileage to be had. on top of that, an e-fan will not flow as much air as the stock fan, so you may or may not run into cooling problems later down the road.

leave the stock fan on and replace the fan clutch if its seized.

the stock oil pressure gauge is not a gauge, its just a glorified idiot light. all it tells you about your oil pressure is that its above 8PSI. its fluctuations could be caused by numerous things including a bad ground, sender, or failing cluster.
 
Not only is there no performance or MPG advantage to an e-fan, with all the components, the reliability is much worse than the OEM mechanical fan/clutch.
 
I'm going to post this here, because of the title, and the prior posts.

Prior to installing the Flex-a-lite 40 on my 89 Ranger, I went over virtually all the posts here and another site. From that I had the following concerns:

1. Reliability.
2. Adequate airflow.

What I was seeking was:

1. Not having to replace the existing fan which is cracking.
2. Increased power (and gas mileage).

Since I only installed this product yesterday, I can only answer on one of the topics definitively. There is clearly more power. I have a hill I go up everyday that has a 40 mph speed limit and sometimes cops. To go up it in fourth gear with the stock fan I needed to be going about 47 mph and have the accelerator pedal to the floor. With this fan I can easily go 43 without having the pedal pressed all the way. I haven't tried 40 yet. But there's clearly a difference in power, as you would expect. Contrary to popular belief, the clutch does not cause the fan to stop spinning entirely, and the power to move the fan is not free.

As to installation, it was fairly straight forward. The hardest part is removing the fan/clutch assembly. I bought a large crescent wrench for the task. It might have been easier because the fan clutch was not the factory item. Remember that the threads are reversed, which means you loosen it by moving the handle of the wrench to the driver's side if the handle is pointing up. Before removing the fan all the way, I removed the two 8mm bolts at the top of the fan shroud, and then removed both components together.

The 40 kit comes with a fan shroud, but it leaves about a 1/2 inch gap between it and the radiator. A few washers fixed that so that the gasket material of the fan fits nicely up against the radiator, improving airflow dramatically. I also drilled a hole through the top of the shroud so the the factory clip for the air conditioning hose positioner would function.

There are several options for how this operates, including with/without ignition on, with A/C on, by a manual switch, and the non-optional when the radiator is too hot method. That last one does require that you stick a temperature probe through the radiator near the engine outlet, and that is admittedly a bit scary, but it worked.

As to those options, I have started just with the basic setup of on/off based solely on temperature. I didn't opt for the ignition option because most cars with electric fans don't use that option. I may switch, however, because it does cycle on and off quite a few times (about 6), but only for short periods of time. I like the idea though of cooling the area where the battery sits, so I may leave it. I will probably add the A/C option in the spring, but I really don't see the point of it when I'll just be using the A/C from here on out to defrost the windows during rain (I live in Seattle).

Anyway, I am concerned about reliability, because at a stop a boil over can start to occur in only about 5 minutes even in 60 degree weather. At the very least I'm going to carry an extra fuse. Moving at even 25 mph the fan never comes on in 60 degree weather, but that might not be the case at warmer temperatures.

As to airflow, I really doubt that's a problem if the fan is properly installed as described above. I have the fan set to kick on when the temperature gauge is at the "R" in word normal. It's base level is the "N" of normal. In 60 degree weather the temperature will drop back to the "N" in about 30-60 seconds, and that requires that water in the radiator be cooled and sucked into the engine since the gauge sensor is in the engine. So seemingly there's plenty of airflow. But again, to determine that for sure I need warmer weather. I would note, however, that with the A/C connection hooked up, the fan would be running more in warmer weather than when needed for engine coolant temperature control, so that would in effect be even more airflow. I would be more concerned if I did a lot of stop and go driving, or if I did a lot of off roading.

My final comment is the unit is slightly on the noisy side. You can definitely hear it turn on when you're at a stop. It's probably twice as loud as a factory fan.

Anyway, I'll try to update as time goes by.

Edit 10/11/09: 39 mph up the hill in fourth, not full throttle most the way. A huge difference from 47 and full almost all the way.
 
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The stock fan is good enough to keep your engine cool but there is one down fall which is when you go through a deep puddle there is a good chance that the blades can go into the rad but with the electric fan you can turn off the fan to prevent that but if you don't drive full speed into a deep puddle i would say don't get the electric fan and stay with the stock fan!!!!!!
 
Doom's Day has it. There are no gains to be had by switching and reliability is an issue. The one and only reason I switched to electric is so I could shut it off when doing deep water.
699930_74.jpg

Doing this stuff breaks plastic fan blades, pulls blades into the radiator and throws mud/water all over the engine bay.
 
Fan

I had an electric fan I liked the quiet of it and that it only worked when you needed it but it's not as reliable and your dependence on your fan in low range first gear trying to get out of some rock pile is huge.Only took it out because put in the thick radiator and it dosn't fit.What I did wrong then was put in a heavy duty clutch fan in which spins the fan way to much, real noisy.My oil pressure gauge does the same thing.
 
???

Doom's Day has it. There are no gains to be had by switching and reliability is an issue. The one and only reason I switched to electric is so I could shut it off when doing deep water.
699930_74.jpg

Doing this stuff breaks plastic fan blades, pulls blades into the radiator and throws mud/water all over the engine bay.

:icon_rofl:

Are you saying the engine bay is dry in that picture???
 
I installed a Flex-a-lite specific for my ranger a few years back. I bought it for performance and mileage reasons, but eventually took it off and replaced the stock fan. It did make the truck a bit more responsive, but having AC without overheating was more important.

The electric fan had an exterior temp sensor and was also wired to a relay so it would come on with the AC compressor clutch. On a hot day, the electric would run non-stop, but couldn’t keep up. The truck would quickly overheat at idle with the AC running.

Installation wasn’t complicated, but the specific fan for my truck required modification. For clearance I cut the electric motor shaft down by 1/2 and inch and cracked the fan clutch mounting threads off the existing water pump. Having done this, I had to install a new water pump when I finally admitted my mistake and reinstalled the stock fan.
 
I had a 16" e fan in my '95, it seemed to make the truck slightly more responsive, but i'm not really sure a i did it in combo with other mods.

I bought a cheap thermostat relay and had problems with it not working - twice the relay setup failed, once the reay itself went bad - no big deal if yo have a spare, the other time it was a wiring prob. so my truck has overheated a couple times becuase of the elect relay on the fan. I have since switched back to the stock fan.

if you do the e-fan, get a bigger one, mine was a 16" and it never got quite as cool as the stock fan. I'm guessing an 18" would be best. also, dont skimp on the wiring and the thermostat setup, spend more for a good one.

come to think of it, part of my problem could have been that I used the e-fan with no fan shroud, maybe it would have cooled better with one on.
 
:icon_rofl:

Are you saying the engine bay is dry in that picture???

LOL! That was actually a clean up pass through the water. If you look at the rest of the truck, you can see how much mud I might be washing off... The point I was trying to make, up here, there are few runs without fairly deep water/mud and I don't like broken plastic fan blades and while doing this pass, the mechanical fan wasn't throwing water all over the top of the engine.
 
FWIW, on hot days (85*+) in my Dakota, when the clutch fan starts to lock up, there is a huge power loss and I'm not joking when I say it feels like a 20HP loss, the truck is a total turd in the heat. From what I've seen an electric fan can draw maybe 1HP worth of juice from the alternator. I plan on using fan from a Ford car in mine (I think it's the MarkV that's supposed to have an awesome electric fan).
 

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