Fabricating anything right now?

[ForOffRoadDriving]

Ever get any measurements of that pull pal?

so i came up with 53" for the longest arm, 24" for the arm with the duckbill spade on it, and 26" for the center connecting arm. you will also need 6 pieces of 2"x6" flat stock for the connecting straps.

 

[disciplerocks]

 

[CountryBoy78]

so i came up with 53" for the longest arm, 24" for the arm with the duckbill spade on it, and 26" for the center connecting arm. you will also need 6 pieces of 2"x6" flat stock for the connecting straps.

Sounds good, thank you for the measurements.

 

[gwaii]

just to show ya never know what's going to come through the door...i'm doing bodywork on a 76 celica in preparation for a new paint job,and the mechanics from helijet come up the driveway.

seems they've got some broken helicopter seats to weld up.

i've done a bit of heli work in the past,and sometimes i can wrangle a ride out of it.see how this one works out.

 

[CHKNFKR]

somehow i think we just might know each other outside of these here forums.....

 

[gwaii]

somehow i think we just might know each other outside of these here forums.....

howzat?

 

[93 4x4]

just started my cowl hood project today, its going to be 3-1/2 inches tall

and yes, thats blood on the hood

 

[Iron Ranger]

I made a leaf!!!!!!!!!

This is what happens when I'm bored.....

 

[gwaii]

might as well get this thread back up there...



this one isn't truck stuff,but it's some kinda interesting aluminum fab.

i'll start with my fancy blueprint.it's an engine pod for a boat that's being converted from inboard to outboard.the owner is mounting one engine now,but may want twins on it later so this had to be taken into consideration in the design.

i got my measurements figured out on the transom first,making sure all my angles were correct.i did a structural rebuild on this transom,but since most of it will be covered by the pod i'm not too worried about it's appearance at this point.

all my layout,bend allowances,and cuts are figured out using a neural cognitive software system.everything is marked out onto 1/8'' marine grade aluminum sheet.

as this material is a little too heavy for the shear,all the cutting was done with my trusty circular saw.i've been cutting metal(and sometimes wood)with this saw for almost 20 years now.it's old enough that it has a metal chassis,not like the plastic crap being made these days.
the windex is used as a cutting fluid,i used to use wd-40,but this works just as well,and is cheaper plus it doesn't remove the sharpie marks on the metal.
the welding helmel is for face protection,there is a huge amount of sharp,hot aluminum chips being thrown off the saw at high speed.a good coverup is vital.

all the parts formed up and ready for assembly.

anywhere i can substitute a bend for a weld leads to a neater assembly,and is cheaper to do.welding,especially aluminum tig welding is kind of expensive.

i'll get back to this after doing some welding.

 

[railman]

all my layout,bend allowances,and cuts are figured out using a neural cognitive software system

geez...and I just call it "doin' it in my head"

great work as usual

l8r, John

 

[gwaii]

geez...and I just call it "doin' it in my head"

great work as usual

l8r, John

i knew you would catch that one

 

[The Mud Addict]

At work we use Crisco to lube the blades when cutting aluminum. I build fish transfer pump systems, we use LOTS of aluminum

 

[gwaii]

At work we use Crisco to lube the blades when cutting aluminum. I build fish transfer pump systems, we use LOTS of aluminum

that would work well too.

actually,just about anything that will keep the aluminum from sticking to the blades does the trick...i've just started with the windex lately.i like how it makes cleanup easy.

 

[martin]

What kind of blade are you using on the saw? Did you think of mounting a washer pump on the saw?

 

[gwaii]

What kind of blade are you using on the saw? Did you think of mounting a washer pump on the saw?

right now it's a fine crosscut blade...i think 40 or so teeth,but coarser blades work well too.keeping them lubricated is more important than the actual blade design,i've found...though carbide tips make a big difference.

i'd thought of a system to provide a steady flow of coolant,but it would end up being too messy spraying that much off the blade.a quick spray on the blade and on the cut line before starting seems to work pretty well.