F150 question

[James Morse]

Is the 2000 Triton a good engine? I like the looks of this vintage ok and they are a lot cheaper, I can find some low miles ones red supercab. I like the stepside I think it makes the bed a little wider.
Edit: I see the triton is 5.4L so wondering if that is the same as the later 5.4L or is it better.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Is the 2000 Triton a good engine? I like the looks of this vintage ok and they are a lot cheaper, I can find some low miles ones red supercab. I like the stepside I think it makes the bed a little wider.
Edit: I see the triton is 5.4L so wondering if that is the same as the later 5.4L or is it better.

Tritons like to crack exhaust manifolds and eject spark plugs…

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I think 4 full size doors is Supercrew and suicide doors is Supercab. Yeah mostly you do see the 4-full-doors but looking at a few brochures, the 4-doors are pushed in pics but they did have the Supercab at least the ones I looked at so far. I didn't realize the rear windows roll down that's cool. Dog is a consideration yes.

Interesting cool thing here to take out one or both seats in the newer models. Ford F150 2015-Present 13th & 14th Gen. SuperCrew - Second Row Seat De – Goose Gear (goose-gear.com) Costs, yes, but I imagine when you take out the seats there is ugliness there so you'd have to do something. And you could always put the seats back so it's reversible and it looks easier to clean/vacuum than carpet (for dog) and nice and flat. For my use I just don't see ever needing rear seats, there are 2 of us, our kids and grandkids are far away and if I was visiting a long ways I'd probably rent something, or, we have the Lexus RX300 anyway, so to me back seats are just something in the way.

One thing I like about the Ranger is it came (XLT) with skids and kind of off-road oriented oem. Just looking at a few brochures, I'd have to find which models have the right combinations of things and I'd have to decide was I going to use it strictly for on-road and occasional towing, or am I asking it to do off-road, because those would point me in two very different directions. If I were going camping, those places don't require 4x4. But let's say I'm towing, and get in a muddy field, maybe I'd want 4x4 (or just avoid such). I'm guessing 4x2 is going to be cheaper.

The only reason I got into this is, if plans work out, which they often don't... but anyway, I'm trying to save pennies to at some point get an FFR Daytona and it's likely I'll want to tow it some places. They're not heavy - 2400 lbs - but you add in a decent trailer, and it quickly gets up to the weight that the Ranger is basically maxed for towing and I've been told you shouldn't run at the max.

It'd be nice have an F that looks like a 'big brother' to the Ranger. So, red, Supercab, fender flares would be nice but I think they are only on some models.

Looks like, at least years I looked at so far, 8' bed is only available on XL or XLT (latter would be my preference). Probably hard to find.

Post pic of your '08 if you can please. Why did brakes suck and what did you upgrade them to and what does leveling do?

They overheated and warped too easily. I got a big brake kit from 4wheel parts with drilled/slotted rotors. It helped alot.

Leveling makes it sit level instead of ass high and helped smooth out the rear donkey kick over bumps when the bed is empty.
Here is a pic of her hauling my mule

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Tritons like to crack exhaust manifolds and eject spark plugs…

Mine has done neither. Simple instructions and a can pb blaster makes the spark plugs not a thing

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Everyone hates the 5.4L. But I love mine. Never had a problem with the spark plugs. 140k miles of hard driving and runs perfect. Only thing that ever happened was one broken valve spring at 110k miles.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Mine has done neither. Simple instructions and a can pb blaster makes the spark plugs not a thing

You probably like the 2.9 too, don’t you?

 

[Eddo Rogue]

You probably like the 2.9 too, don’t you?

LOL nope thats where I draw line. I had one once. That's a nope.

I think I just got the one good 5.4 that was made on wednesday.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Is the 2000 Triton a good engine? I like the looks of this vintage ok and they are a lot cheaper, I can find some low miles ones red supercab. I like the stepside I think it makes the bed a little wider.
Edit: I see the triton is 5.4L so wondering if that is the same as the later 5.4L or is it better.

Different.

My '02 was a great engine. Never had a issue with plugs. It did break a couple exhaust manifold studs but news flash... everything does that especially if it has aluminum heads.

Do be careful with the plugs, torque the plugs too tight and you can strip the threads. Too loose and they will work the threads until they strip.

Only real issue I had was coils, as it got on in years it took one about every year.

Not sure about the stepside but I had to cut down my bed divider board when I got my '16 which really surprised me.

 

[James Morse]

Are you saying the stepside was wider than the '16 in the bed?
Edit: Does this sound true? "The Ford F-150 also underwent a radical change in 2015 by dropping 750 pounds by switching from a steel body to that of all-aluminum. "
Not that we have lots of rust here, but, that's a huge weight difference.

 

[Rick W]

I apologize, I haven’t read the whole thread, so I hope this isn’t a repeat. I bought my 96 brand new with the extended cab in the 8 foot bed, four-wheel-drive diesel. I remember being irritated cause in 97 or 98 was the first time they offered the rear doors I’m just a super cab, not a full four-door truck. I hope it helps

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Are you saying the stepside was wider than the '16 in the bed?
Edit: Does this sound true? "The Ford F-150 also underwent a radical change in 2015 by dropping 750 pounds by switching from a steel body to that of all-aluminum. "
Not that we have lots of rust here, but, that's a huge weight difference.

Yeah, the aluminum body trucks are way lighter, forget what year that started but 2015 sounds about right. Personally I’m a bit skeptical of a 10-12k max towing weight behind a truck that’s 750 lbs lighter than one that had a lesser tow rating. I’ve been pushed around by what I’m towing before and it’s not a pleasant experience. Better have some good trailer brakes is all I’ll say….

 

[James Morse]

Yes the 4 doors (rear suicides) are very nice to have, Mazda has them, XLT doesn't... I live with it, but if I got another truck I'd like them.

I'm confused again about towing on my '97 XLT. I believe my Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is 4920 lbs. As I understand it this is how much the truck can weigh fully loaded.
Then my user booklet says GCWR (combined weight rating) is 9,500 lbs for my engine and axle ratio and model. Max trailer weight is 5,600 lbs.

So I am supposed to take my GVWR and subtract actual curb weight (by weighing) to find available capacity what the vehicle itself can carry. Curb weight being stock vehicle with nothing in it.
Likewise I take GCWR and subtract actual weight (without trailer) to find out how much I can tow in trailer weight.

Not knowing curb weight right now, just for example say it's 3500. That means I can carry 1,420 lbs of passengers, tool box, anything added. Let's say I have 300 lbs of passengers and 300 lbs of other stuff.
Using these example number, now my loaded weight is 4,100. That's my "gross vehicle weight". To find available tow capacity, I take 9,500 less 4,100 to get 5,400. This is under the max trailer weight.

Now I know I don't want to be maxing everything out, but unless I screwed up somewhere, in this exqample, it seems like I could tow an open car trailer with a light car on it. I'm saying, if the trailer weights 2,000 lgs and the car weighs 2,400 lbs, I'm towing 4,400 lbs which is 1,000 lbs under max so it should be ok. But eveything I've heard here says no you can't tow a car trailer with it.

I am missing one important piece of info and that is what does my truck weigh (gross vehicle weight) with 2 passengers and whatever I normally carry in it. So I'd have to find a scale or get a set of 4 wheel scales (probably expensive).

There are fine points about front and rear reserves. Like, you can't put a plow on the front. Trailer tongue weight might come into it but I'd think usually they are balanced pretty much.

What am I missing? (besides not knowing gross curb weight). Even if my gross curb weight is 3,900 I'm still ok according to the numbers.
Edit: Truck scale is 15 miles away I go past it on way to vet. It's for weighing the big semis but it should be able to weigh the Ranger, right? Looks like maybe $15 to do it - worth it.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Yes the 4 doors (rear suicides) are very nice to have, Mazda has them, XLT doesn't... I live with it, but if I got another truck I'd like them.

I'm confused again about towing on my '97 XLT. I believe my Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is 4920 lbs. As I understand it this is how much the truck can weigh fully loaded.
Then my user booklet says GCWR (combined weight rating) is 9,500 lbs for my engine and axle ratio and model. Max trailer weight is 5,600 lbs.

So I am supposed to take my GVWR and subtract actual curb weight (by weighing) to find available capacity what the vehicle itself can carry. Curb weight being stock vehicle with nothing in it.
Likewise I take GCWR and subtract actual weight (without trailer) to find out how much I can tow in trailer weight.

Not knowing curb weight right now, just for example say it's 3500. That means I can carry 1,420 lbs of passengers, tool box, anything added. Let's say I have 300 lbs of passengers and 300 lbs of other stuff.
Using these example number, now my loaded weight is 4,100. That's my "gross vehicle weight". To find available tow capacity, I take 9,500 less 4,100 to get 5,400. This is under the max trailer weight.

Now I know I don't want to be maxing everything out, but unless I screwed up somewhere, in this exqample, it seems like I could tow an open car trailer with a light car on it. I'm saying, if the trailer weights 2,000 lgs and the car weighs 2,400 lbs, I'm towing 4,400 lbs which is 1,000 lbs under max so it should be ok. But eveything I've heard here says no you can't tow a car trailer with it.

I am missing one important piece of info and that is what does my truck weigh (gross vehicle weight) with 2 passengers and whatever I normally carry in it. So I'd have to find a scale or get a set of 4 wheel scales (probably expensive).

There are fine points about front and rear reserves. Like, you can't put a plow on the front. Trailer tongue weight might come into it but I'd think usually they are balanced pretty much.

What am I missing? (besides not knowing gross curb weight). Even if my gross curb weight is 3,900 I'm still ok according to the numbers.
Edit: Truck scale is 15 miles away I go past it on way to vet. It's for weighing the big semis but it should be able to weigh the Ranger, right? Looks like maybe $15 to do it - worth it.

So, you are correct with how the numbers work.

I never worried a lot about it, mostly because I never knew the exact weight of what I was towing with it most of the time, but I knew I should be within limits. I used both of my 2000 Rangers over the years to tow a couple different Bronco II‘s on both a tow bar and a tow dolly. Also pulled a 97 Eddie Bauer Explorer and a YJ Jeep on 34’s. It worked, but a lightweight aluminum trailer with brakes would have been much nicer. It also could have helped in the one bad moment I had where I was pulling the choptop on a dolly and had a semi pass me at well over the speed limit which gave everything a hard shove from the displaced air and made the choptop wiggle. With no trailer brakes and not enough engine power I didn’t have the best options for dealing with that. A trailer with electric brakes I could have manually tapped the trailer brakes to straighten things out or with more engine power I could have punched it and snapped everything straight. Of course, with an actual trailer I could have had better balance which would resist such movement from happening to begin with. Towing is all about balance.

Supply yards that sell bulk gravel and sand and stuff often have scales as well as the local dump or scrap yard and they may not even charge you for getting on the scale if they aren’t busy.

 

[James Morse]

$13 to weigh it at Pilot, open 24 hrs, 15 minutes away. They should give me front/rear but if not total would be ok.
Yes trailer brakes required, here anyway, if trailer is over 1500 lbs. I think there are anti-sway bars available too.
Sometimes you see trailers start oscillating back and forth it's really scary and dangerous if it's you happening to. There's probably a word for it, but you know what I mean.

 

[Rick W]

All trailers with relatively central axles (as opposed to a tractor trailer type trailer with axles in the rear) should be mounted where 60% of the weight is in front of the centerpoint of the axles and 40% of the weight is in the rear of the center of the axles. If too much weight is behind the axle, it actually pulls up on the hitch, and it can start a harmonic imbalance (the oscillating).

If you stayed at a constant speed, the oscillating would stay even. Of course everyone’s first thought is to slow down, and when the trailer is oscillating, the more you slow it down, the faster it will oscillate. If you’re ever in that situation, while there is no good option, perhaps the best of the bad options is to immediately start slowing the rig, but do it slowly. Whatever you do, don’t try to go faster assuming that the trailer will trail the truck in a straight line and it will center. The oscillation is excess energy, and the faster you go, the more the energy, the more violent the isolation. Hopefully the trailer settles down. Obviously the best solution, is to load the trailer properly in the first place.

As a young bonehead, I actually went through this once with a load of firewood. It was a little trailer behind a Pinto squire station wagon. Fortunately, I was able to stop and restack the wood. It’s not a situation you would want to repeat!!


Hope it helps.