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Expected Parts Life


RustedRanger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2009
Messages
829
City
Farmland IN
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
I just got a 87 Ranger 4x4 2.9L 5 speed this month with 147,000 miles. It has a good history of being reliable for the guy that had it before me,sadly he didn't do anything besides drive it. So far I have done most of the normal tune up stuff and put a gas tank,radiator and exhaust on it. This is the first Ranger I've ever had and only the 2nd "newer" ford product I have had. No history came with the truck other than it has a Penn. inspection sticker on the windshield from 2004 so I figure it was kept running decent until then at least. It looks like it has had the water pump replaced and the valve covers off at one time and also it looks like the upper intake has been removed and it has a newer dist. cap. What parts normally fail around this milage and will certain parts give any "warning"? I am on a very limited budget but I don't want to be stranded either. Thanks.
 
The most common things people have problems with are the heads cracking and the input? shaft in the tranny. It's kind of hit and miss with both... I have had the 2.9 in my trail rig up to about 250 degrees a few times and it's still going strong. My tranny is gonna go any day though and it only has 118k on it.

Other things that I have seen fail a lot are heater core, fuel pressure regulator, brake booster, coolant temp sensor (ECT), valve cover gaskets, electronic t-case shift motor (if you have that) and auto hubs (if you have those.)
 
I personally have a 89 ext. cab 2.9 5-speed with 280,000 miles on it. I will tell you right now, THIS IS NOT THE NORM! the 2.9 likes to overheat and crack heads or vice versa. They do seem to last longer with manual transmissions, and if you keep up on your regular maintenence you could see 200,000 out of it. Also, carry an extra ignition module. They like to take a crap without warning.
 
Oh, yeah, forgot about the ignition module. That is true with any 80's Ford vehicle though, from what I have heard they all use basically the same thing. I personally have gone through three in my F150.
 
Thanks for the info. I know the "born on date" is on the sticker on the door but mine has been wet and appears to say 00 86,can it be found in the vin? I checked out brake pads online and it could have two different ones according to the build date. If nothing else I will take one off when I get ready to do the brakes to compare. Also it has 235/75/15's on it and I saw that Rangers came with three different size tires and since it runs and drives good I thought that is what it came with but the sticker says 205's. When it comes time for tires (soon) I'm gonna get used ones. Would you recomend staying with taller tires? In 4th is carries 2500 rpm at 55 and 2100 rpm in 5th,it seems the 205's would hurt the mpg do to the extra revs. and be harder on the engine.
 
I would go with 215/70's if I was doing stock size tires... they are just a little wider than the 205's. Either would be fine though.

2300-2600rpm is about where the 2.9 makes its best mileage, so you may actually see an increase in mileage when you go down a tire size. I was making around 22 in town with my 2.9/5 speed on 205's. Depends on your gearing though.
 
I would like to add, watch out for the brake calipers... On every single RBV I've owned (without exception) one of the front brake calipers locked up... Maybe just me, I think I'm cursed...
 
The thing to look at on calipers is where does the brake line connect to them.

The "weird" calipers that take the "odd pads" were used through most of the 1986 model run and through to the end of february of '87 if I recall correctly...
Those have a brake line that connects to the TOP of the caliper
(the brake lines run $60 for these calipers)

The COMMON caliper that is CHEAP to replace CHEAP to buy pads for
and uses a $22 brake line were used on All other earlier rangers (to the bigging of production) and from March of '87 through the end of the 1994 model year.

these calpers have the line that connects to the BACK oc the caliper.

If you have the oddballs use ANY excuse to get rid of them and replace
them with the common one.
I recall getting the common calipers from NAPA "Loaded"
(complete with pads and caliper pins) for $28 each, plus
another $22 (each) for the lines that only cost me about $20 more
than just the pads did for the oddball ones!


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