Electrical Gremlins....SOS

[i86hotdogs]

Hey all, been working to get my '94 2.3L 5-speed up and running. Was able to button everything up mechanically, but there are a ton of electrical issues that are stumping me. Electrical stuff is also my weakest automotive skill. I'd rather rebuild an engine in subzero weather 5 times than do electrical diagnosis. I have no power to ANYTHING despite a brand new battery and terminal connectors. Power and ground wire are also OK.

Let's start with the fender mounted solenoid. Replaced the solenoid and put the wires back exactly how I found them. Note the cut red wire at the bottom.

Then there's the fusebox

All fuses have been replaced. But that relay doesn't look welcoming whatsoever.

That white wire runs freely across the engine bay to here

Any direction, tips, help, and criticism is welcome! I have access to all wiring diagrams I have yet to peruse through. Have a multimeter ready to check things. I have no idea where to start and where to look first. Here's an updated shot of ole Grimace for your time!

 

[RobbieD]

Just . . . wow. You've got a mess there. Bear with me here, and let's see if we can get it straightened out.

First of all, you're going to have be careful. From the look of things you're following behind a world-class electrical hack. Just think things through, and do not just try to connect different wires different ways to see if it fixes itself. It won't.

Second thing;

I have access to all wiring diagrams I have yet to peruse through.

PLEASE start by looking at and studying the wiring diagrams. It's a necessary skill, for electrical troubleshooting and repair. Trust me; they'll make sense even if it takes some time.

I have no power to ANYTHING despite a brand new battery and terminal connectors.

If I understand correctly, the truck has no power to anything. And it's been this way since you've had it, right?
Nothing when you turn the key, right?;
and NO LIGHTS (parking, headlight, dome light), correct?
Have you checked, and tested ALL of the fuses in the underhood fuse box? Using a meter, for power by probing the small openings on the top of each fuse. I note that you say the fuses are new, but we want to know where you have, and don't have, +12 volt power.

Power and ground wire are also OK.

Not really. The power wire, at least, is not OK; part of it is cut.

Let's start with the fender mounted solenoid. Replaced the solenoid and put the wires back exactly how I found them. Note the cut red wire at the bottom.

Your solenoid does not look like it's configured right. Off the top of my head, here's what I think you have going on. There should be three "battery" wires (constant +12 volt) at the solenoid (relay, actually): 1) the thick red is from the battery + post; 2) the thick black wire feeds the underhood fuse box; the smaller wire coming off the terminal at 9:00, looks brown but is called out as gray, goes to the charging system.
The small brown wire looks like it's toast because of the discoloration at it's ring terminal. This wire connects to the alternator for the charging system, The white wire that "goes across the engine bay to here" in your fourth picture may be related to this.
The white wire that was added to the upper right solenoid (relay) terminal likely goes to the (real) starter solenoid, on the starter motor itself. That is what the cut red wire would normally do.

That's just my opinion, just looking at pictures, and working from memory so take it with a grain of salt. I'm sorry; I know that all of this is likely hard to digest, all at once. Please study your wiring diagrams, and compare it to what's in the truck.

Until you get the wiring nightmare cleaned up, leave the negative battery cable loose, in case you have to quickly disconnect the battery (smoking wires get overdone rather quickly). If you are working on the wiring, it's a good idea to disconnect the battery during the work, and then carefully reconnect it once you're finished.

The first thing I'd do, is to determine if power is in the underhood fuse box, then why if it is not. The fuse box can be unbolted and turned over (disconnect the battery, remember?) for inspection. Corrosion in the electrical connections there, is very common.

Basically, start at the battery and find where the power stops. Use the diagrams as a road map.

Go slow, and good luck. You'll have questions; so just ask away.

 

[bobbywalter]

picture of starter connections would be nice....