duraspark resistor?

[sirjeremyjohnson]

the coil i have for my duraspark swap, is the one listed on the tech page, but on the side of the coil it says for external resistor, but the tech page does not mention this? is it required?

 

[Big Jim M]

yep!

the coil i have for my duraspark swap, is the one listed on the tech page, but on the side of the coil it says for external resistor, but the tech page does not mention this? is it required?

If it sez it needs a resistor then YEP! It does need one. they are cheap and what they do is to ower the voltage to the coil by about 1/2. So the voltage will be slightly above six volts.
It'll run on 12 volts...for a while. But it will go south from the higher voltage. Most vehicles that used to run those coils had a bypass feature that would allow the engine to start on 12 volts and then when the key was returned to the run position the coil would get it's voltage thru the resistor.
Big JIm

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

you think it would be easier just to swap it for one with an internal resistor?

 

[dangerranger83]

Im running the factory coil and didnt have to mess with any of that stuff, just seemed like the easiest and best way to go.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

+1 on using the stock TFI coil with new plug wires and stock motorcraft/autolite single platinum plugs. All the spark you will ever need just get bit once and you will agree. It is recommended to put some dielectric grease on the plug wire ends and the center contact of the distributor cap for the high voltage going thru and the stock coil and plugs keeps the heat range correct for that engine. If you puff smoke out the tailpipe when you start it now would be a good time to replace the valve guide seals. In the tech library under 2.8 V-6 it explains how to without pulling the heads.

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

yea i just swapped it for a new stock coil.

im also doing the valve seals and a high volume oil pump while im at it.

i installed the valve seals for one cylinder tonight just to see if i could do it, it was easy and my stock valve seals weren't even on the valve like yours. amazed i didnt have more smoke on hot start.

question though, did you just hand press your valve seals? or should i tap them? want to make sure they stay

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I just pressed them on but a light tap couldnt hurt at least for the first couple then make them all the same. I`m not sure on the high volume pump if it is necessary just a stock one would probably be just fine. You might have issues with the small oil pan not holding enough oil and I pulled the intake manifold and resealed it so it no longer leaks out the valleys between the block and head.

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

I sometimes notice my oil gauge drop when the engine is hot and idleing for a while, that's why I got the pump, I figured the "high volume" was probaly more hype than anything, and just made me feel better. I wish someone had some experience on here with these

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I sometimes notice my oil gauge drop when the engine is hot and idleing for a while, that's why I got the pump, I figured the "high volume" was probaly more hype than anything, and just made me feel better. I wish someone had some experience on here with these

Yea mine does that also but it never ticks after I adjusted the valve lash the second time. Adjust it cold and run it until it comes up to temp a couple of times and then adjust it again cold and then snug the valve covers down good. I still get close to half the guage running at freeway speeds. I used to run 10w40 because it leaked less but now run 10w30 synthetic and she still holds oil just fine for a 28 year old motor.

 

[dangerranger83]

A high volume pump does just that, gives MORE oil VOLUME but NOT more PRESSURE. As your engine gets more miles on it, the bearing clearances get bigger and the higher volume of oil helps compensate for that to help maintain the pressure that it oil is suppose to be at.

Running a manual guage on mine, when the engine is at temp. Im at 20ish psi at 800rpm. But after I get to around 1400rpm and above im at 40-50psi. On a cold start up running at 2000rpm im at 70psi until she is warm enough to idle on her own. Mind you though this is afrter an oil change. As my oil gets older, Im at max 40psi of oil pressure warmed up and just below 60psi on a cold start.

As far as having a small oil pan for the pump, I have run mine easily 5000rpm+ for sometime and had no problems with oil pressure.

Im happy that I havent had to change my valve glides yet, but know I will one day.

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

Yea thats why i wanted to install it, to make up for the worn parts that would be on an engine with that amount of life on it. I figure it cant do anything but help, the more oil the merrier it seems.

I understand the pump doesn't create a higher pressure, the clearances create the pressure, but if my thinkings right then the more volume you force through the clearances it would it turn bring up the pressure.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Yea I have heard here with a high volume pum you need a bigger pan and different pickup is why I brought it up. I have allways put high volume pump in my older vehicles when available. The only thing I can think of is the possibility of it leaking more so a new PCV regularly would keep the pressure down in the crankcase. Mine also leaked pretty good around the fuel pump gasket talk about a bitch to get at now would be the time to at least replace the gasket I changed the fuel pump just for giggles I didnt want to go back there any time soon.

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

i got all the valve seals replaced this morning, and it all went fine. i took the motor mounts loose and have the engine tilted up with a hoist now to remove the pan, i'm letting the oil drain out for a while to try and keep it off my face. (yea right)

ive removed the crank seal as well to put a new one in. im dreading all these little pan bolts.

 

[dangerranger83]

There not bad to put in, its just time consumming thats all. I cant remember the order of how I tightened them though. Of course my engine was out of the truck and upside down when I did all the work to mine though.

 

[sirjeremyjohnson]

so i got all the bolts out of the pan, and i got the pump bolts out, and the pump to pickup bolts out, but i cannot get the pan out, i think there is a bolt from the pickup to the block, but im just feeling around, how did you guys do it in the truck?