- Joined
- Aug 27, 2019
- Messages
- 37
- Points
- 601
- City
- Tulsa
- Vehicle Year
- 1984
- Engine
- 2.8 V6
- Transmission
- Automatic
- My credo
- If you don't pay attention, you will pay someone else
Thanks to each of you for your comments. I do appreciate your contribution. 

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Thanks for the excellent reply. I'm sorry for the delayed reply.I have no practical experience with this (just my $0.02) but from what I've seen/read, the most common location is on the driver's side inner fender liner, just forward of the brake master cylinder. This location provides easy access to the two wiring connectors and there even seems to be holes (or indents for holes) already in the liner. The downside is that this spot seems to be susceptible to road spray & debris when the truck makes a hard left turn.
So, do you try to extend the fender liner so road spray isn't an issue? Or, do you build some sort shield/box for the ignition module? We already know that the ign. module is subject to overheat so you'd want it someplace where it can stay cool.
I've seen them mounted on the firewall, just above the distributor. I've seen them mounted in the cab. Of course, that means you have to extend the wiring.
I've thought about adding a heat sink (which I've done on a motorcycle I owned). The ign. module has ribbing on the top surface but it's nothing like a heat sink from a computer. You just need to purchase the correct epoxy.
At this point, you need to decide what kind of effort you want to put into your install. Keep us posted on what you decide and why. Hope this helps.
I am still trying to figure out how to provide more cooling but a heat sink, as much as I like the idea, might not work. The reason being is that the top of the ign. module isn't flat. It has a bit of a 'saw tooth' profile. Heat sinks require flat surfaces to work most efficiently. In this way the heat is transferred from the heat-generating device to the cooling fins to be dissipated. With the saw teeth on the top of the module, it may not be possible for the heat sink to work in the way it's intended. Worse, adding a heat sink (with epoxy) may even cause the module to retain heat which would cause it to fail quicker. I'm thinking the saw teeth are the heat sink even though they're not as efficient as they could be. Also, the people that designed and built these things had to take heat (and heat dissipation) into consideration. We may be trying to re-engineer something that doesn't really need it.I did a google search for heat sinks and found a lot of options on eBay and amazon which included 3M adhesive just for heat sink applications. Again, I want to thank you for the idea of adding a heat sink.
What would be great to see is how clean the engine looks without all that vacuum and wiring that was removed.Yes, it cleans things up considerably to just remove it after the Duraspark conversion.
I removed all of the stuff which was no longer used or needed- the computer and its wiring harness, the vacuum solenoid bank, and its related reservoir and vacuum tubing.
My pile of removed "leftovers":
View attachment 74264
Pop the hood on any mid-60s Mustang and that'll give you a good idea.What would be great to see is how clean the engine looks without all that vacuum and wiring that was removed.
What would be great to see is how clean the engine looks without all that vacuum and wiring that was removed.
Pop the hood on any mid-60s Mustang and that'll give you a good idea.