- Joined
- Aug 15, 2019
- Messages
- 4,004
- City
- Oklahoma
- Vehicle Year
- 1993
- Engine
- 4.0 V6
- Transmission
- Manual
How did you overheat the brakes? I've had heavy loads on mountainsides and just pumped them to keep it under control without heating them up
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A automatic is not as good as a manual, but in certain situations you can treat it somewhat like a manual and it can be helpful. On most of my automatics, when I pull a mountain I will pull it down out of overdrive at least. The auto trans will take care of itself, but I do not like it downshifting going up the hill, then when I slow down and go around a curve, it goes back into overdrive, and then after the curve it drops out of overdrive, and it does this all the way up the mountain. I just force it to stay out of overdrive.And I don't have a lot of experience with auto trans, I mean, I've had them, but probably 95%+ of the vehicles I ever had were manuals and if it was that I wouldn't have such questions because I'd know what to do just by instinct. So it's not unlikely that I ask some questions that seem obvious to others then in retrospect I usually go, of course, how could it be otherwise.
Stop and get out after your loaded mountain ride, I will guarantee you can smell the brakes on it.How did you overheat the brakes? I've had heavy loads on mountainsides and just pumped them to keep it under control without heating them up
Here's the thing at idle on the level, in D you're going what, 8-10mph? Something anyway. So if you're not going at least that, you won't get engine braking from the trans. Unless I'm missing something here.
So in conclusion i may of been talking out my ass but 8-10 seems fast lol
Please stop that. The smell is horrendous.Since we're talking out our ass here...
Depends how long youre dragging them at a low speedSince we're talking out our ass here...
If you're going that slow without touching the brakes, are you generating enough heat in the brakes to worry about it?
Pad material can etch into the rotor during storage if exposed to moisture, excess heat warps rotors.My understanding about brake warping is that the rotors don’t actually warp. What happens is when you get them really hot, from riding them or whatever, then you stop and hold the brakes. When you stop the brake pad material gets fucked up and gets stuck to the rotors. The only way to fix it is to turn the rotors or replace them. Hence why people think they’re warped. I think I read that in HotRod or something.
To the point about driving down a slippery hill. If it’s real slippery the tires will lock up easy when you hit the brakes and you can loose control. when in 2wd, same thing can happen in 2wd when downshifting to engine brake, back will loose traction and spin you around.
In 4wd, engine braking will slow everything down at the same time, so less likely to loose traction all at once.
As a Lathe man at a brake shop for almost 3 years, I can say this is wrong. I have turned rotors by the truck load. They DO get warped. I've seen them where they wouldn't even sit flat on the concrete floor. It's not the hat that warps, it's the actual disc.My understanding about brake warping is that the rotors don’t actually warp. What happens is when you get them really hot, from riding them or whatever, then you stop and hold the brakes. When you stop the brake pad material gets fucked up and gets stuck to the rotors. The only way to fix it is to turn the rotors or replace them. Hence why people think they’re warped. I think I read that in HotRod or something.
Somebody could use a few truckloads of gravel and a motor grader.That isn't a muddy road. This is.
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