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Distributor problem!?


I am hoping for the best at this point I would talk to them but they woul want me to take he engine out and send I back. I am extremely frustrated right now that this thing is not running. I have spent too many hours workin on this truck for it not to be running!!!!!!!!!!

Can you tell I am frustrated. Just pray that this will get sorted out.
 
Totally understandable Dan...I think a few prayers would actually help...when we exhaust all of our humanly ways to do something it is time for Divine Intervention...or miracle...keep calm and trust in the Lord...I'm sure it is something simple...and shouldn't take that much to fix...
 
First off, there is no "oil pump drive gear". The oil pump is driven off of the hexagonal shaft that slips into the bottom of the distributor, which is turned by its own drive gear.

Do you mean the gear on the auxiliary shaft? It is the mounted in the block and is spun by the timing belt.


If you meant auxiliary shaft, then your best option (and almost only one) is to go to a salvage yard and find a vehicle with the 2.3L and pull the aux shaft from it. It only takes 30 minutes maximum to get one out, and you'll even be able to get a matched distributor/drive gear combo for use in the future, if needed (and if you have the money to spare).


As for the metal in your oil pan, it may be there, it may not. Get a magnetic drain plug. The strainer on the pick up tube is really good about keeping metal chunks out of the oil pump, but even if the metal bits get past the strainer, they will only affect the oil pump. Once the pump pumps the oil, it goes straight to the filter, which keeps the metal bits out of the most important parts of the engine.

Much better to replace just the pump rather than the slew of bearings in the rest of the engine... (Still sucks that you have to pull the block to get to the pump, anyway...)
 
There is a blow up of the auxiliary shaft in the on-line repair manual...I'd have to admit that I never paid much attention to it...I'd "assumed" that the shaft was a direct drive for the oil pump but that, as Insane pointed out...is not so...it appears to be driven by the Auxiliary shaft by an eccentric lobe...

And I'd have to admit I have no idea why this is binding and shearing teeth...

The diagrams show the block outside of the vehicle (upside down) so that may be needed if you have to replace the oil pump as well as the shaft...

If you just need to replace the shaft it probably could be done with the engine in the vehicle...as long as you don't have to replace the oil pump or the intermediate shaft that drives the pump...so the motor probably should come out so everything can be properly assembled...

So, again, my suggestion would be to contact the assembler directly and let them take care of it...most come with at least a 90 day warranty...depending on where you bought it from...

EDIT:

If you want to have a look at the diagrams in the on-line manual...

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=319
 
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There is a blow up of the auxiliary shaft in the on-line repair manual...I'd have to admit that I never paid much attention to it...I'd "assumed" that the shaft was a direct drive for the oil pump but that, as Insane pointed out...is not so...it appears to be driven by the Auxiliary shaft by an eccentric lobe...

The eccentric lobe only drives the mechanical fuel pump. Ford kept the eccentric on the shaft up until they redesigned the block for the oil pump to replace where the auxiliary shaft resides. Also, the oil pump is not driven by the shaft, directly. The oil pump is driven by a 5/16" hexagonal shaft that slips directly into the bottom of the distributor. It also has a locking ring on it so that it doesn't come out of the oil pump when you take your distributor out. If the shaft does come out when removing the distributor, BE SURE TO PUT IT BACK IN!! It's an EXTREMELY costly mistake to not have that hexagonal shaft after replacing distributor.

And I'd have to admit I have no idea why this is binding and shearing teeth...

Now that we're talking about oil pumps, I remembered something else. Check to make sure your oil pump is turning free by taking a 5/16" deep socket and socket extension to the oil pump shaft. It should spin freely by hand, just by turning the extension. If you have to turn it by taking a ratchet to it, then your oil pump is locked up (possibly from debris.)

The diagrams show the block outside of the vehicle (upside down) so that may be needed if you have to replace the oil pump as well as the shaft...

The hex shaft only need replacing if it is bent or rounded off. If you have to replace it, then you'll have to replace the oil pump, as well.

If you just need to replace the shaft it probably could be done with the engine in the vehicle...as long as you don't have to replace the oil pump or the intermediate shaft that drives the pump...

Auxiliary shaft can be replaced with engine in vehicle. I've done it four times now, for various reasons. The biggest pain about replacing the aux shaft is getting the timing belt back on the sprocket after you've changed it.
 
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I don't know how many times I've read about this problem with 2.3L engines but it happens to a lot of people. Every time I've seen a thread about this problem they always say that the engine was removed to clean out fragments.
What I've learned on Turboford.net and Turbotbird.com : don't use too thick/heavy oil,always let your engine oil thin out (warm up), don't rev high when cold, don't rebuild with a high volume oil pump (takes more power to spin/strain on gear) , and always use Ford parts with the exception of the Melling M127 oil pump being prime choice.
What I just learned from this thread: shimming the distributor shaft. Does anyone know how much up and down play a healthy distributor is supposed to have ? This could eliminate the shim.
 
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First off that is what the part I called at Orielly's and second I know than the distributor drives the oil pump. I just want to know where to get one.
 
Yes and the oil pump shaft does turn easily I tried it to make sure
 
I thought about going to the scrap yard and get one.
 
Insane: Since you've done this you know way more about it than what I can learn from diagrams...just the way the on-line manual shows, it appears that the drive for the oil pump is a small shaft that, even with magnification, I could not see a gear on it...so I assumed that the drive was running from an eccentric lobe...

How does one tell if the oil pump is actually functioning? Remove the valve cover and check for oil or run the engine with the VC off to see if oil is coming up through the channels? I've never doubted the function of mine because it throws oil everywhere...and sometimes it actually gets on the upper part of the engine!

Dan: you can probably order the shaft from a parts place...I doubt that there would be too many of those engines around to get an aux shaft solely, but happy hunting if you go that route...

I know there is an 87 mustang with a short block in my area but I've been trying to find an 88-91 Ranger or Mustang 2.3 to rebuild...so far nothing found.
 
I thought about going to the scrap yard and get one.

That is seriously your best bet. Ford no longer makes that auxiliary shaft, and the only place online that I've found one for sale is Esslinger Engineering. Be prepared to spend $250 total on it, shipping and all that included.

Esslinger Racing

Insane: Since you've done this you know way more about it than what I can learn from diagrams...just the way the on-line manual shows, it appears that the drive for the oil pump is a small shaft that, even with magnification, I could not see a gear on it...so I assumed that the drive was running from an eccentric lobe...

I thought as much. I was just making sure that people reading in the future had a clear and concise explanation for how it all works.

How does one tell if the oil pump is actually functioning? Remove the valve cover and check for oil or run the engine with the VC off to see if oil is coming up through the channels? I've never doubted the function of mine because it throws oil everywhere...and sometimes it actually gets on the upper part of the engine!

I hadn't ever thought about making sure it was pumping... I think I've always taken the "sloshing" sound as a identifier of it being functional.
 
Sloshing? LOL...If I could hear sloshing over all the other noises my engine makes it would truly be a miracle...between my shorty header, various and assorted tiny squeaks and pops, and an alternator that loves to sing it's bearings out...

That's why I was interested in knowing how one would know...but I guess other engines don't have the same orchestra playing "Man's Perfect Tune"...under their hoods...:)
 
Hahaha! Well, the sloshing would only be audible if you're testing the oil pump by hand and not with the engine running.
 
auxiliary shaft mod

The mechanic that is fixing my ranger could only find a fuel injection aux shaft. So I figured instead of ordering one for $235 I could see if that one will work and just put in an electric fuel pump. What do u think?
 
So he found the right shaft which is sweet. I get it back tomorrow!!!!!! So no electric fuel pump
 

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