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Distributor problem!?


I've never actually had to shim a distributor...saw this earlier but the only thing I could think of was the slop in the hole...last time I pulled my distributor I had a pretty good idea of how it all worked...and I recall that the top part of the hole is where the distributor has a wide flange or tapered part that fits very nicely in the hole...if the distributor does not sit all the way down the distributor can move...even when it is tightly bolted using the U shaped bracket...

I'd pull it out all the way and try to reseat it...I seem to recall having a similar issue where the distributor would not drop the last 1/4" or so and it was a matter of repositioning it...

I could be wrong but that's going from memory of removing it about 6 or 7 years ago...
 
Well like I said I could wiggle it a little. But I am worried that if I do not shim it I am going to be stranded on the interstate again. Sorry about the double message I did not know the first went through yesterday.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
And the distributor is seated all the way down to the block and is tight.
 
If its seated all the way down, and you can wiggle it slightly, i wouldn't lose sleep...
 
Where can I buy just the gear for the distributor? The auto parts stores can not get them
 
Rockauto.com


They'll run around $30 for steel ones.

Brass ones are $70+.
 
My distributor is only $41 that is high
 
Did not find them on there
 
Did you destroy another one??? I thought you just replaced the distributor...
 
Well I asked if I should shim it anyways even though the rotor moves and I was told I should be fine but I wasn't I didn't even get out of the driveway and it shut off pulled it back up to the house and pulled the distributor out and sure enough the teeth were almost gone. I saw on the block where the gear is rubbing though so I will shim it tomorrow.
 
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By the way I am not knocking the info y'all gave me. Just wishes I would have shimmed it.
 
Here's what you need to search for when at Rockauto.

1987 FORD RANGER 2.0L 122cid L4 SOHC : Ignition : Distributor Drive Gear


I was surprised to see that they don't have distributor drive gears listed under the '88 Ranger. Very odd...



Another thing that you could do is to take the next gear you get and carefully grind down the bottom of it. Not all gears are made to exacting lengths when it comes to the roll pin.

So, shim the distributor and grind/file the bottom of the gear. Oh, and make sure the rotor wiggles freely once you get the next distributor tightened down.
 
^^ Good idea...

My rotor will move about a 1/16" when seated properly...if it doesn't move then it is jammed...and cranking the engine by hand with the distributor cap off will tell you if it is moving freely and normally...if it binds...there's a problem.

And I said I never had to shim one...but obviously there is a problem on some and I have no idea why that would happen...this all happened since you installed the new short block so I'm thinking maybe there was a problem with the auxiliary shaft to begin with...

Did you try pulling the dizzy and cranking it over while looking at the gear inside the hole? That would tell you if the gear is moving freely, but almost sounds like the distributor shaft is binding somehow causing the gear to stick...that would result in the teeth being sheered off...or maybe it is too close to something else inside and when it spins it is hitting something...
 
The oil pump drive gear has part of a tooth missing!!!!!!!!!! Does any one know where I can get one?
 
I'd suggest whoever rebuilt it...did you find any metal in the oil when you changed it or have you got to that yet? If not...run the oil through a strainer and see if it is in there...if there is metal in the oil I'd seriously consider making an issue with the rebuild people because it sounds like it was defective...but that's just the way I think...:)
 

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