Distributor option

[franklin2]

Ill just block it for now and pray the 12v will work. Either way im in arizona so never gets too cold but i still plan on taking this truck on roadtrips where it does get cold. Do you know where i can find those parts if needed? Or should i just find a fully electric choke?

I ran a china carb and just used the S terminal on the back of the alternator. It worked fine that way with a little adjustment. The S terminal only has about 7v, but you can turn the black choke housing to suit your needs and make it run the way you like.

The great thing about the alternator connection, the choke only heats up when the engine is running. If you hook the choke to key on 12v, then it is pulling off as soon as you turn the key. If you happen to have a little problem with it starting, and the key is on but it is not running, the choke is pulling off the whole time. If it happens to be cold outside, and the choke pulls off too much, it may never start unless you pump the gas pedal several times before cranking.

You should always push the pedal to the floor at least once on a cold morning start by the way, even with a auto choke.

 

[ISX_15]

I ran a china carb and just used the S terminal on the back of the alternator. It worked fine that way with a little adjustment. The S terminal only has about 7v, but you can turn the black choke housing to suit your needs and make it run the way you like.

The great thing about the alternator connection, the choke only heats up when the engine is running. If you hook the choke to key on 12v, then it is pulling off as soon as you turn the key. If you happen to have a little problem with it starting, and the key is on but it is not running, the choke is pulling off the whole time. If it happens to be cold outside, and the choke pulls off too much, it may never start unless you pump the gas pedal several times before cranking.

You should always push the pedal to the floor at least once on a cold morning start by the way, even with a auto choke.

yeah thats what i had to do when this truck was running, couple taps of the gas before cranking. im kinda hoping everything will be dialed it to where i wont have to do that, unless its cold outside obviously. when i run a aftermarket alternator, it wont be any close to factory, just a GM style internally regulated alternator with 2 pin harness. If i really need to give the choke 7v, i can just wire a diode in that circuit to drop it down from ~12v to ~7v (this wont be long until the engine is all tidy up)
ill just be doing some experimenting, i have ALOT of plans for this truck as far as electrical goes. relays to turn on external amps, bla bla bla, irrelevant to this thread.
Im not really a big fan of the factory alternator, sounds overcomplicated and considering it has a external regulated i wanna get rid of all that crap and just do a internally regulated alt, should clean up some more wiring too in the engine bay. I plan on using tess tape for my wiring harness, and maybe cover in conduit or techflex to really seal the deal.
without a doubt the engine bay is SO MUCH CLEANER

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Pushing the pedal to the floor once gets the choke and idle on the correct step to operate correctly when cold. Cold meaning hasn't been run for half a day or more.

 

[ISX_15]

Pushing the pedal to the floor once gets the choke and idle on the correct step to operate correctly when cold. Cold meaning hasn't been run for half a day or more.

OH , yeah you right didn't think of that. this stuff is way out of my time , i was raised around OBD II on a real note i prefer working on this oldschool a lot more, non of that CANBUS crap to deal with.

 

[franklin2]

With these older vehicles (I have a 84 BII), it's not so simple sometimes. On these models, I guess they put so much computer/emissions crap over on the pass side inner fender, they had no room for the old style regulator. So they put it on the driver's side. So good, that eliminates some of the wiring going across the top of the engine when you get rid of the regulator. But what you need to be aware of, they had a 10 gauge wire going from the battery, all the way across the radiator and to the driver's side to feed this system. There is a junction over on the driver's side where the alternator fed the battery AND the rest of the truck. So this needs to stay intact.

I am running the GM alternator also. I ran a wire from the output directly to the battery +, but I also doubled up and ran another 10 gauge wire across the radiator to the original regulator location. So the battery and the alternator would "see" the electrical loads of the system better like it did originally. That single original 10 gauge was also melted in places, like it had been overloaded.

I also had to run a small wire from the red/green going to the original alternator, across to the GM alternator to trigger the alternator to come online (terminal #1 on the GM alt). I also rigged a ungrounded 12v bulb in this line, and just layed it under the hood on the driver's side in series with the red/green. I need to mount this light in the dash and run wires out under the hood but haven't done it yet.

 

[franklin2]

And on the choke thing, another way to run 12v without having a problem with the key on, is to put a oil pressure switch in series with the choke wiring. This is the way GM did it. That way the choke does not start pulling off until the engine develops oil pressure. Of course you can try it the simple way, it may work fine. But these are some options if you have problems.

 

[bobbywalter]

AYE