distributor install help

[1BadRS]

I'm in the process of converting to the duraspark and I'm getting hung up on getting this distributor in.

My issue is with the new o ring not letting the distributor fully seat on the block. It gets hung up right as it gets to the o ring and even with some pressure it won't slide fully in. When I remove the o ring I can get the distributor to fully seat no problem.

Can I slide the o ring up on the shaft past the groove so it would basically sandwich between the block and distributor to prevent oil leaks? If not what do you suggest?

Thanks

 

[kimcrwbr1]

They are a little tite for a reason it is usually first the place they leak. If you know the oil pump shaft is lining up alright it takes a firm tap sometimes or give it a twist as your pushing down and put some engine oil on it to help it slide in. Yea they can be a bitch especially getting it lined up right so it sits at 11 oclock on TDC of the compression stroke of #1 cylinder. Once you get it to go in once it gets easier.

 

[1BadRS]

Thanks for the tips, I just got it to seat. Everything is lining up, the rotor pointing at #1 on the cap which is at the 11 o clock position and the timing pointer is lining up with the balancer mark. Should be close enough to get it running and set the timing.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Sounds good did you make sure you were on the compression stroke for #1 cyl. If it dont fire right off just rotate your plug wires 180 degrees or turn the crank one full turn then line it at 11 oclock with the rotor turn the dizzy 180 degrees it should slide right in.

 

[Hotrodlincoln]

Engine oil or silicone lube on the O-ring will let it slide right in with little effort.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

What carb are you using

 

[1BadRS]

The carb is the only thing I don't have in hand right now. I would like to put on a non feedback 2150 1.08 venturi with 48-50 jets. I could do a 2100 as well but I thought the later 70's were the most updated versions. If I'm running a C5 auto do I need to have one with a dashpot installed? I see some with and some without.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Are you talking for the engine idle or the choke pulloff. It is not necessary for engine idle unless you want to add one for the A/C to kick the idle up. For choke pulloff basically the only difference between the 2100 and the 2150 is the 2150 has the pulloff on the back of the carb and the 2100s pulloff is internal. You will need to plug the choke preheater fitting on the choke thermostat housing for a vacuum leak. I bought two on ebay that were unusable so be careful what you bid on. The first one the venturi cluster was corroded so bad it would not come apart without breaking it maybe if I would have soaked in carb cleaner for a few days first but when I disected it the ports were allplugged also. The second one someone messed with the throttle butterflys and the shaft was sloppy creating a vacuum leak and it wouldn`t close all the way for a good idle. I finally found one on a shelf at a auto repair shop a friend of mine owns for free all total I paid about $200. If you get a 2150 and rebuild it surface the base of it with a piece of sandpaper glued to a flat piece of plywood and get a spacer felpro # 60529 for $18 to plug the vacuum leak between the stock spacer and the carb where the TPS used to be on the feedback carb. GL

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Oh yea some of those carbs dont have the PCV nipple on the base of them if your good you can add one or just use the nipple on the back of the egr spacer where the EVP vacuum line goes to the carbon cannister.