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Disc brake conversion questions


I worked at the most reputable brake shop in town, there were standards our boss wanted to keep. Cracking the bleeders was one of them, but every now and then, we skirted a few of his rules.

I know I would personally be suspicious of a brake shop if I got my car back and I noticed the never even touched to bleeders.

Out in the yard/garage is a totally different story.
 
You could make some argument about pushing dirty fluid into the ABS controller or the master cylinder, but the idea of having debris in the lines that somehow gets caught in either of those seems like more of an urban legend. The only thing I can think of is concern about overflowing the reservoir and making a mess. Outside of that, the only reason to open the system is if you're planning to flush the brake system afterwards. Not always a bad idea, but if you're doing that every single time you do a brake job, that's a shop policy designed to drain customers pockets. Not about being 'the most reputable brake shop in town'.
 
that's a shop policy designed to drain customers pockets. Not about being 'the most reputable brake shop in town'.
I was NOT the shop owner and they were NOT my policies. Way to slander a small business owner without even knowing him.
 
We've taken this one from disc brake conversion to full on slandering the most reputable brake shop in the country. Partially my fault with the residual pressure valve question.
 
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:LOL:
 
In the brake shop I worked at, this^^ process is frowned upon. We were told to crack the bleeder to push pistons back, to keep from pushing the seals out. Dot 3 isn't that expensive and every job has to get bled anyways.
That's ridiculous. That doesn't even seem logical. The amount of pressure caused by pushing the piston back in without opening the bleeder is only a fraction of the pressure being applied when you push the pedal down to brake. Think about that for a moment and realize how the theory of pushing seals out is laughable.
 
That's ridiculous. That doesn't even seem logical. The amount of pressure caused by pushing the piston back in without opening the bleeder is only a fraction of the pressure being applied when you push the pedal down to brake. Think about that for a moment and realize how the theory of pushing seals out is laughable.
So your saying in all of time, seals have NEVER been pushed out using this process?
How long has your brake shop been in business? I'll wait . . .

As I understood it, pressure from booster to calipers was OK, Pressure from Caliper to Booster was not OK. Seems pretty logical to me. That's why your pedal comes back up slowly.
But you do it your way, and I'll crack the bleeders. You probably just slap pads in without having rotors resurfaced too, LMFAO.

Remind me to never ride in your truck.
 
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So your saying in all of time, seals have NEVER been pushed out using this process?
How long has your brake shop been in business? I'll wait . . .

As I understood it, pressure from booster to calipers was OK, Pressure from Caliper to Booster was not OK. Seems pretty logical to me. That's why your pedal comes back up slowly.
But you do it your way, and I'll crack the bleeders. You probably just slap pads in without having rotors resurfaced too, LMFAO.

Remind me to never ride in your truck.
23 years. Rated highly in the area. And service contactor to several city owned fleets. Also bosch factory trained(specializee in fuel injection and engine electronic control systems). Honda performance factory trained. Cummins factory trained. All in brakes and suspension. You were saying??
 
23 years. Rated highly in the area. And service contactor to several city owned fleets. Also bosch factory trained(specializee in fuel injection and engine electronic control systems). Honda performance factory trained. Cummins factory trained. All in brakes and suspension. You were saying??
I was saying that, the guy who taught me to do brakes, the owner of the shop that's been in business for over 30 years and is the MOST reputable brake shop in the area, said that was not the correct way to do it.
 
I love your constant claim to be 'the most reputable brake shop in the area', as if that should negate our concern about a business practice that is clearly oriented towards charging extra fees rather than a justifiable focus on doing the job properly.
 
I love your constant claim to be 'the most reputable brake shop in the area', as if that should negate our concern about a business practice that is clearly oriented towards charging extra fees rather than a justifiable focus on doing the job properly.
Do you also love how Big Bang aslo claimed to be "Rated highly in the area", because it's the same thing I did.

We're talking about DOT3 brake fluid here. It's not like we were overcharging for the stuff. It's in the price of the brake job. To think that Brake Fluid is where the shop makes it's money is laughable. You think cracking the bleeders, and then topping off the fluid is " a business practice that is clearly oriented towards charging extra fees rather than a justifiable focus on doing the job properly."
give me a break, bro. :icon_rofl: stop being silly. You're the only person that mentioned cracking the bleeders was a money scheme. Nobody else. Just you. It was presented to me as a "fast hack for shade tree mechanics" so I don't do it. What you do to your vehicles is your business.

I love your constant nagging at any little comment I make. I'm NOT wrong here, but you seem to want to be MORE right than I am on any given occasion.
 
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I worked at the most reputable brake shop in town, there were standards our boss wanted to keep. Cracking the bleeders was one of them, but every now and then, we skirted a few of his rules.

I know I would personally be suspicious of a brake shop if I got my car back and I noticed the never even touched to bleeders.

Out in the yard/garage is a totally different story.

I've never heard of such a thing.

Been working on my stuff for 20+ years, parts manager of a CDJR dealer that has been open for 47 years for 2.5 years.

If that muniscule amount of pressure pops the seals they desperately need popped anyway.

:icon_rofl:
 
I've never heard of such a thing.

Been working on my stuff for 20+ years, parts manager of a CDJR dealer that has been open for 47 years for 2.5 years.

If that muniscule amount of pressure pops the seals they desperately need popped anyway.

:icon_rofl:
That's cool. There's a lot of things that people have never heard of. That doesn't mean those things doesn't exist.

I'm not trying to convince anyone to change the way they do brakes. I was just simply trying to pass on the information that was passed to me. I thought that was the point in this forum but apparently it's sole purpose is to make Ranger850 look foolish. At times I play the fool, probably to my detriment, but that doesn't make me ignorant or dumb. I can easily go on about my life and not give a care to how your brakes were done. I only care how MY brakes are done.
 
That's cool. There's a lot of things that people have never heard of. That doesn't mean those things doesn't exist.

I'm not trying to convince anyone to change the way they do brakes. I was just simply trying to pass on the information that was passed to me. I thought that was the point in this forum but apparently it's sole purpose is to make Ranger850 look foolish. At times I play the fool, probably to my detriment, but that doesn't make me ignorant or dumb. I can easily go on about my life and not give a care to how your brakes were done. I only care how MY brakes are done.

I googled it to humor you.

Bleed brakes when changing brake pads — Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice | Automotive Repair Tips and How-To

It is kind of a thing but not for the reason you say.

To be honest if calipers have age on them we just quote new/reman ones, due to corrosion in the bores when you expand them beyond their normal travel (which changes as the pads wear) the pistons can get weird and not release. Then it melts the new pads and new rotor and customer comes back angry. So we avoid breaking off/rounding of crappy bleeders on old calipers that may or may not come back around by just replacing the whole thing outright if they have age to them. And of course replacing the caliper would do the same thing as pushing old fluid out of the bores. Crappy old fluid is gone, new or cleaner fluid is in.
 
The recommended procedure since I started working on cars in the early 90’s has been to open the bleeders before pushing the pistons back…. Common practice is to just shove the fluid back into the master. I know which way I’ve always done it, that doesn’t make it the right way.
 

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