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dhkonrad's 93 ford ranger


You got quite a few places to go wheeling around there. Idk how familiar you are with the area. I seem to make it down to Boise once a year for a trip. Ussualley rigging is far as I go, as there are several miles of wheeling to be done from here to there.

I always wanted to catch a white knight show down there

I have heard about some rock crawling out owyhee way, about an hour away. I am slightly hesitant to do anything remotely hardcore though, because I am really worried about doing something to my truck that I couldn't repair because I don't really have somewhere to work on my truck...
I am super unfamiliar with the area though, because I have only been up here for a couple months. Loving the area though.
If you do happen to come down you should hit me up!

best way to test to see how far before rolling over is a fork lift. that way you can go slow up with the fork lift and not actually roll your truck. i bet you could get the rear tire off the ground a foot or so and still be safe

I could do that, just use two forklifts, one for each tire. I could even chain the axles to the forks, so if I do lift too high, it wont go all the way over. I would just have to make sure to lift each set of forks pretty consistently. hmm. Now to just find two forklifts I can "borrow" for a time :D
 
o u want to see from side to side i was thinking u wanted to see how far just by one tire
 
o u want to see from side to side i was thinking u wanted to see how far just by one tire

Ooh I see what you were saying now. Makes more sense.
yeah, I was thinking for like the side of a hill and whatnot
 
i think your more likely to roll it by flexing rather than on a side hill. you would have to be on a pretty steep hill im thinking you could get around 3-4 feet off the ground with a fork lift picking up a while side before it would roll. but yea pick up one tire.
see how high you can go before the back tire comes off then pick up about 3 inches off and you will see how unsteady it is.
 
i think your more likely to roll it by flexing rather than on a side hill. you would have to be on a pretty steep hill im thinking you could get around 3-4 feet off the ground with a fork lift picking up a while side before it would roll. but yea pick up one tire.
see how high you can go before the back tire comes off then pick up about 3 inches off and you will see how unsteady it is.

You may be right. It still makes me wonder though...
so you think like a 30-40 degree angle? Now I am really curious. I would expect a little better stability due to FW axles, but just how much...? :icon_confused:
 
Ill be sure to get Ahold of you if I go down that way. You should buy one of those things with 3 gauges. Pitch, roll, and a compass. Can't remember the name. But mark it once you find out how far it'll go before it rolls.

I bought mine at oreillys auto for 20$.

What are you going to Boise state for?
 
Ill be sure to get Ahold of you if I go down that way. You should buy one of those things with 3 gauges. Pitch, roll, and a compass. Can't remember the name. But mark it once you find out how far it'll go before it rolls.

I bought mine at oreillys auto for 20$.

What are you going to Boise state for?

I was actually thinking about that. I had a friend that had a 4-runner with one stock, but it didn't work so well. How does the Oreillys one work?
Im studying Mechanical Engineering.

Not sure if you'll ever venture this far but if you do consider contacting the timber tramps 4x4 group. Great bunch of guys young and old. Some pretty built rigs of all sorts.

https://m.facebook.com/pages/Timber-Tramps/146747982088683?id=146747982088683&_rdr

If I do Ill check them out :icon_thumby: thanks
 
I haven't gotten to use it as its been on jack stands. It doesn't stick or anything. Bobs around alot while driving. Its pretty small. Only goes to like 40* roll.
 
I got a little bored on halloween, so I finally went through the rest of the stack of receipts from my SAS:



and finished tabulating all the costs


so assuming I didn't forget anything on my list (I probably did), and not including scrap metal I used from home, welding wire, tools I bought specifically for setting up gears, etc etc, it came out to $2414. Doesn't seem too bad to me. Obviously there are still some loose ends to tie up, but all in all I should be well under 3k I think. Still way less than I have in books for school...

Also just for kicks I ran some quick numbers on max force my radius arms would take before bending, assuming they landed on a rock dead in the middle of them, and it came out to about 2800 lbs per side, assuming infinitely thin rock, static load, blah blah blah. Plenty to set my truck on them. Obviously landing my truck on them wouldn't be a static load, but I wasn't THAT board...

I also assumed the DOM to have a yield strength of 70ksi. That is what most companies quote for their DOM, but in my material science class, I took a piece of .5" 1020 DOM, threaded it, and turned it down in the center so I could do a tensile test with it. Yield came out to be about 100ksi, and UTS came out to be about 110ksi. I wouldn't trust those values for all DOM, but I thought that was kind of interesting. (in reference, 1020 HREW should have a tensile strength of about 30-40ksi iirc)
 
Last edited:
I got a little bored on halloween, so I finally went through the rest of the stack of receipts from my SAS:



and finished tabulating all the costs


so assuming I didn't forget anything on my list (I probably did), and not including scrap metal I used from home, welding wire, tools I bought specifically for setting up gears, etc etc, it came out to $2414. Doesn't seem too bad to me. Obviously there are still some loose ends to tie up, but all in all I should be well under 3k I think. Still way less than I have in books for school...

Also just for kicks I ran some quick numbers on max force my radius arms would take before bending, assuming they landed on a rock dead in the middle of them, and it came out to about 2800 lbs per side, assuming infinitely thin rock, static load, blah blah blah. Plenty to set my truck on them. Obviously landing my truck on them wouldn't be a static load, but I wasn't THAT board...

I also assumed the DOM to have a yield strength of 70ksi. That is what most companies quote for their DOM, but in my material science class, I took a piece of .5" 1020 DOM, threaded it, and turned it down in the center so I could do a tensile test with it. Yield came out to be about 100ksi, and UTS came out to be about 110ksi. I wouldn't trust those values for all DOM, but I thought that was kind of interesting. (in reference, 1020 HREW should have a tensile strength of about 30-40ksi iirc)

How far along are you in your mechanical engineering courses?

I can almost guarantee you the discrepancy you see between the absolute yield strength advertised and what you observed in lab is nice little safety factor to cover someone's ass
 
How far along are you in your mechanical engineering courses?

I can almost guarantee you the discrepancy you see between the absolute yield strength advertised and what you observed in lab is nice little safety factor to cover someone's ass

Im a junior.
You're at sac state right?

That's the same conclusion that I came to, but I still thought it was worth noting.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
Im a junior.
You're at sac state right?

That's the same conclusion that I came to, but I still thought it was worth noting.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Senior. Graduating in the spring hopefully lol

What ENGR classes do you have this semester?
 
Senior. Graduating in the spring hopefully lol

What ENGR classes do you have this semester?

At the moment, I am taking Dynamics, Thermodynamics, ENGR stats (calc based), and computations (c++, excel, and some matlab). A couple of those are Sophmore classes, but with the transfer and everything I am a bit out of order. I am done with all my calc and stuff like that.
 

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