Dave's '93 Ranger Build

[93bushtruck]

EDIT: Change of plans, and picture location.

Figured Id start one of these, just things I plan on doing over the next few weekends, as cash allows. My plans for the truck are:

Exterior:
Clear corner lights
Polishing headlights
Fitting whatever grille I can find
Fixing dents
Removing Lower front valence
2-3 inch lift
new tires
Window tint
Stickers
Fog lights
And Im Debating wether or not to paint the rockers black, Im unsure how that would look with the chrome bumper

Interior:
Shampoo the hell out of the carpet and seat
Fix drivers door latch
Re fit drivers door panel
Cut hole+make bezel for the manual t-case shifter

Stereo:
-Not sure what head unit, something cheap so if some asshole decides to break in he gets a cheap deck
-Already has decent sounding speakers so leaving those
-Putting an 8 inch bazooka bass tube under the seat
Gonna find a cheap amp

Driveline:
Going to add a manual t-case
Run the hell out of it untill something blows up, then its 5.0 and SAS

Thats all I can think of. Starting work this weekend, and maybe a junk yard run.

Suggestions are welcome, but be nice please!

 

[prerunnerwannabe]

I couldn't quite tell if you have them already, but you should add 'manual hub swap' to your list.
It's going to be a nice truck once you're done! Check out the tech library for some useful tips and info!

 

[93bushtruck]

I do not have manual hubs already. Will the auto hubs not work with the manual t case?

 

[06RangerXLT]

they will, auto hubs are junk though and break at the worst times.

 

[dangerranger83]

They will but the front wheels have to be moving for them to kick the hubs in and out. So if you get stuck and want to use 4wd to get out, you may be screwed. Plus manual hubs are more reliable too.

 

[93bushtruck]

Ok, thanks! Those are on the list

 

[93bushtruck]

Well, I got a few hours in today. I threw the bedliner back in. I also painted the rockers with some rubberized textured undercoating. Then moving it into the shop, the passenger rear wheel decides to lock up. Lovely. As far as I can tell, the wheel cylinder i seized. In a desperate attempt to move it, I dropped it into Low gear and mashed the pedal. Just did a big burnout Its fine in reverse. I did get it in the shop and tried to pull the drum off. its locked on. I can feel where the brake shoe is keeping the drum on. I gave up and moved onto the transfer case. The replacement is a Borg Warner 1350 (?). I got as far as realizing I have to lower the tranny to unbolt it and I didnt have enough time left.

Can anyone give me a picture/diagram of the shift linkage for this t-case?

 

[crawlin91]

I gave up and moved onto the transfer case. The replacement is a Borg Warner 1350 (?). I got as far as realizing I have to lower the tranny to unbolt it and I didnt have enough time left.

Can anyone give me a picture/diagram of the shift linkage for this t-case?

You dont need to drop the tranny to remove the tcase, pull the skidplate off and remove the bolts, and disconnect the driveshafts, if you cant reach the bolts on top, pull the carpet back and remove the aluminum trans cover from the floor of the cab.

 

[getrdone52]

Be sure to take plenty of pics of your manual t-case swap, so you can help me All I need is the manual t-case. Also if you didn't know, you are going to need a front driveshaft from a 95-96? Explorer. Looking forward to this build

 

[93bushtruck]

Wow, didnt know about the trans cover under the floor. Do you have to pull the seat out?

Why the need for the driveshaft? A quick comparasin looks like it will be fine?
But, I will take plenty of pics for ya! Im still workin on some sort of linkage design

 

[getrdone52]

The early T-casehasa yoketheattaches to a ujoint. The lateroneuses a CVjoint. The only RBV that come stock with IFS and the 13-54 with the u-joint driveshaft is the 95-early97 Explorer. With that you need a driveshaft that is 1" shorter.

 

[crawlin91]

Wow, didnt know about the trans cover under the floor. Do you have to pull the seat out?

removing the seat makes it easier to keep the carpet and padding pulled back while you work, but it is not necessary, just start under the dash and pull it back towards the rear of the cab, probably have to remove some of the trim/kickplates around the floor of the doorjam as well to get the carpet loose

 

[93bushtruck]

OK
EDIT: The E brake cable was seized on that side

Well, I spent more time on the brake issue. What was keeping the drum on was a huge ridge worn in it, so I had to back the adjustment way off. But sucess soon came

Then I could see the problem. This one shoe wasnt fully setting back into place. It could have been a problem with the wheel cylinder, or all the crap built up on the moving parts.

But the wheel cylinder was weeping anyway, so $15 later came a new one ready to install

Which led to the next problem. When I was undoing the brake line on the old cylinder, I was real careful to soak it in WD40 and rock it back and forth to make sure the line didnt snap. It was rocking it back and forth that killed it. To add insult to injury when it broke it slapped me in the face and sprayed brake fluid all over me -.-

Went down to Lordco, looking for a universal brake line. Of course, stupid Ford made one end of that line a 3/16ths fitting and the other a 1/4 fitting, and they dont sell them with 2 different ends. And I didnt have a brake line flarer on hand, it was at home for some reason. So all I could do was crimp the line off, throw the wheel on with no brakes and I have to wait untill next weekend. But progress is progress I guess

 

[4.0B2]

sounds like you need to take a junkyard trip...

 

[93bushtruck]

I can do the line with a universal kit and my line flarer, but yes I do need to go to the junkyard. The P/O Welded the drivers dooe around the latch, and it melted the plastic internals and the door doesnt latch. And I need a grille and indicator. But I might go with clear corners.

Needs a fuel level sender too, but might go with a new/universal one for that.

@getrdone52:
Its not a 13-54 case, its a 13-50 mechanical. Looks like the same setup as the 13-50 electric, but minus the shift motor