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dangerranger1983 build


First drive since hooking up the over flow. It works but have a small leak around the top hose, nothing tightening the hose clamp can't fix and it puked a little out the weep hole on the water pump. Still holding pressure though so that's a good thing. Going to check for more air in the system as soon as she cools down. Also fits in the garage on the place I just got with head room to spare.

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Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
Headers wrapped and new wires are on. Smoked for a few minutes first start up but that be expected. Number 6 wire in the old set was basically burnt in two.

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Last edited:
How does it drive now????




Robert





posted with a cup of sugar and arrow
 
No clue. Was getting dark and cold out and wanted to enjoy the rest of the day with my family before returning to work today. I did however drive the truck an hour before, which had back fire at idle, hesitation in 4th at 55mph when trying to accelerate. Still have to bypass the fuel regulator but I will see what putting new wires does...As soon as all of this snow we just got melts away.

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Remember, this is a budget build. The HEI dizzy costed much less then the duraspark setup and had much few parts to go out too. The air filter housing was also free since I had it laying around and not going to get rid of it right now since it has a new filter. Right now I'm tight on money because of moving into a new place and having to pay the last months rent on my apartment and first months rent on my house plus having a week and a half off work for the holidays too (go back today).

But if any money is going to be spent on the truck, it is to get it back to 4wd. And now that I have a place with a garage, I can hopefully get that done at tax time.

And also get my driverside windshield wiper fixed, the ball socket joint in the cowel has worn out and keeps.popping apart. either going to replace the piece or going to drill through it all and put a bolt with bushings in.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
Remember, this is a budget build. The HEI dizzy costed much less then the duraspark setup and had much few parts to go out too. The air filter housing was also free since I had it laying around and not going to get rid of it right now since it has a new filter. Right now I'm tight on money because of moving into a new place and having to pay the last months rent on my apartment and first months rent on my house plus having a week and a half off work for the holidays too (go back today).

But if any money is going to be spent on the truck, it is to get it back to 4wd. And now that I have a place with a garage, I can hopefully get that done at tax time.

And also get my driverside windshield wiper fixed, the ball socket joint in the cowel has worn out and keeps.popping apart. either going to replace the piece or going to drill through it all and put a bolt with bushings in.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Do"t get me wrong, I like the disy and air cleaner and the price, but I like a little more space between 50-60k volts and a metal surface hooked to common - .
 
3 of the old plug wires were already arching to surfaces they shouldn't, such as plug.

The air cleaner doesn't show any signs of being arched to. I don't want to run an open filter housing, easier for mud, water, crap,etc... to get in the engine. Now if I was building a lowered truck, show you could say, then it would be almost no expense spared.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 
3 of the old plug wires were already arching to surfaces they shouldn't, such as plug.

The air cleaner doesn't show any signs of being arched to. I don't want to run an open filter housing, easier for mud, water, crap,etc... to get in the engine. Now if I was building a lowered truck, show you could say, then it would be almost no expense spared.

Sent from my rooted SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

Knot what I was suggesting I would never tell anyone Knot to use a filter that would be dume, the idea was to use a spacer to raise the filter, That is how I got a 14" filter on my girls dd.
 
I have a spacer but the opening on my air cleaner is to big for it, or really the top of the carb. But have gaskets that keep it from leaking around the two.

Instead my plan is to help things out in the future by getting a carb spacer.

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Good news is, the truck starts in -13 degree weather, only takes about 5 minutes. Bad news it was just producing heat in the cab, about 2 minutes when I went outside the truck to take a video and saw this.

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It wasn't warm and only leaks when running around the plastic/metal where the two join together. It's straight concentrate too. So now I have to get it to my new place across town some how then get $180 fir a new rad and have the time to do the custom work to it so that it will fit. Don't know if hooking up the over flow that allowed the system to work under pressure like it should caused this or not. Really didn't need this to happen side I'm in the middle of moving.

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The system, being barley warmed up, is under as much pressure as if it was so I took the rad cap and it puked out hotdog warm antifreeze on the ground, enough to depressurize things. So what I'm going to do somebody has worked for me before I hooked up the pressurized over flow is to make it so I can't go under pressure but won't puke fluid all over the ground either and see if that works or not. Also going to tighten the clamps that hold the plastic sides on too along with some good 2 part epoxy

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pure antifreeze will freeze, ask me how I know this, you must mix it 50/50 for it to work properly.






Robert




posted with a warm blanket and hot cocoa.
 

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