Aces Killshot Fusion EFI Swap


So is that saying it added fuel at low throttle and subtracted at higher throttle positions?
 
So is that saying it added fuel at low throttle and subtracted at higher throttle positions?

Yeah, positive numbers are it adding, negative is it taking away.

Ideally you want it +/- 5% so the adding isn't too bad.
 
Well I have had enough confidence in it to fill the tank twice.

Averaged 12.4mpg on the first tank... but if had the little eco thing that grew leaves the nicer you drove like a newer car or ev... that branch would have been on fire.

That is a little bit of tuning, a fair bit of test revving, some towing a camper, a lot of mixed highway/city driving and a lot of letting it sing. :3gears:
 
I imagine it's hard to stay off the skinny pedal right now.
 
Still running great but I do have a few notes for anyone else if they go down this road.

It was hot starting hard. By hard I don't mean cranks forever and doesn't want to start, I mean like fighting with the starter. Then it was almost like slam to running like an electric motor just flipped on to operating speed.

I played with crank timing and it only got worse.

Thinking it was getting too much fuel prime I dialed that back... and again it got worse.

Bumping up the fuel prime up made it better, not great but better.

Then it got warmer outside (ambient was half of operating temp lol) it started doing it cold as well.

Then a thing came across FB about a guy having a similar issue, a responder said he had a similar issue and dialed back the "Park Air vs ECT" at the coolant temps it was having issues. So I bumped them all down a hair above 80*... and shucky darn it starts pretty good now.

I need to try to dial back my fuel prime and readjust but for now it starts really well.

I am guessing it was trying to give it too much air so me throwing more fuel at it was halfway making it better.

I snagged a windshield phone mount to watch things on my phone as I drive, kinda cool the IAT is only 10* above ambient per my JY Tahoe mirror. That was about a 80* running 65mph with a slide in camper in the back, wasn't taxing the engine but I am sure were making more heat than normal. Kinda neat for my DIY cold air intake. 😎
 
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And they just dropped Gen2 tuning software...


It is supposed to be easier to figure out... so now I can start all over again lol.
 
I downloaded and glanced at it earlier. Everything looks to be in the same place but it felt a little more cluttered. Especially when you go look for a table.

When I was using the previous version, I had the settings and tables I used the most "bookmarked" under the Custom tab.
 
After my last tweak I did with my phone I need to save my tune before I get brave enough to change software lol.

Right now the Skamper in it isn't really the time to be playing with the tune so it is going to be waiting for a bit.
 
I did get the return fuel line built from between the TB and FPR tonight. I don't have enough fuel line to get from between the TB and fuel filter. It was a short night Really muggy, june bugs were THICK and then a thunderstorm chased me inside.

I submitted a thing for Aces "Tech Tuesday" thing on their youtube and they actually replied!

I didn't get the answer I wanted but I did get a clear answer about what it does/doesn't do. @4:36


So basically nothing changes for the Efans aside from the ECM doing the grounding rather than the temp switch.

To circle back to this...

I charged the air up friday night to see how this new fangled contraption will work.

Engine catches itself when the compressor locks up and fans come on and snaps the idle back to where it should be cleanly. Perfect, I can't ask for better.

Both fans kick on as the compressor runs and kick off when the compressor kicks off as long as the engine isn't asking for fan (and already running) so my relay block is working how it should.

Really made a huge difference. With the Edelbrock 4bbl it would pull the idle down. I think it would have been ok with a slushbox but it goofed up my shifting, it would pull the idle down lower than I was expecting when I would go to shift... sometimes. If the compressor was cycled off it would be normal. So I never really knew what I was going to get when I pushed the clutch in. I usually just ended up turning the A/C on once I got up to speed and set the cruise. The other day I was running it around town and all was right with the world, it was awesome.

Much better than this BS would have been with the carb.


Neither here nor there for the EFI converter but the A/C is cooling awesome as well. :icon_thumby:
 
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this and the 5.o swap thread eric has...is a thing....that consumes my lunch to keep up....have to find page i left off at.
 
Sounds like you are still liking the Killshot. I've been getting the Facebook ads for their sales. I've got the Holley Sniper on the FE in the F-100, but I'm tempted to grab one of the Killshot Lites or Duces units for the 2.8L on the wrecked truck.

Want to put it back into something, need to get it out of the r ck and dispose of the rest. Might find a home in the drift truck project temporarily, and I rather not mess with rebuilding the carb. The Duces would probably be perfect for a little V6, but that 2.8L has the Offy 4bbl and Holley 390 CFM. The Killshot Lite says good for up to 400 NA horsepower, which should work for the little V6 or if I throw together a 5.0L for that truck.

Only a maybe at this stage. Biggest issues is I'm not a tuner and that truck won't be street driven enough to do much self learning. Also figuring out how to make the system play nice with a duraspark distributor.
 
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If you get to reading I think the 4bbl kits recommend at least 200hp, I was kind of nervous with mine because that is about where mine is at but so far it is working good.

Its like $400+/- but there are guys that can tune it for you remotely also. It will need tuned, it isn't a plug and play thing at all. Tuning at least with the old software wasn't super intuitive either. I have had fun researching various issues and figuring things out but it isn't for everybody.
 
If you get to reading I think the 4bbl kits recommend at least 200hp, I was kind of nervous with mine because that is about where mine is at but so far it is working good.

Its like $400+/- but there are guys that can tune it for you remotely also. It will need tuned, it isn't a plug and play thing at all. Tuning at least with the old software wasn't super intuitive either. I have had fun researching various issues and figuring things out but it isn't for everybody.
The normal 4bbl kit says 200-650 HP in the manual IIRC and comes with the 100 lb/hr injectors. The Lite version is listed as up to 400 HP and has smaller 65 lb/hr injectors. From the manuals:

Killshot Fusion:
Killshot Fusion engine requirements.jpg


Killshot Lite:
Killshot Lite engine requirements.jpg


Editing my previous post to clarify that I was talking about the Lite version.


The Sniper isn't really a self learn system either. With the condition of the FE in the F-100 it hasn;t been worth paying to have to tuned yet. Depending on what I end up with for the rebuild in it, the Sniper might not stock around anyway. Might need more than it can handle, or it might get a newer engine swap.
 
Sounds like you are still liking the Killshot. I've been getting the Facebook ads for their sales. I've got the Holley Sniper on the FE in the F-100, but I'm tempted to grab one of the Killshot Lites or Duces units for the 2.8L on the wrecked truck.

Want to put it back into something, need to get it out of the r ck and dispose of the rest. Might find a home in the drift truck project temporarily, and I rather not mess with rebuilding the carb. The Duces would probably be perfect for a little V6, but that 2.8L has the Offy 4bbl and Holley 390 CFM. The Killshot Lite says good for up to 400 NA horsepower, which should work for the little V6 or if I throw together a 5.0L for that truck.

Only a maybe at this stage. Biggest issues is I'm not a tuner and that truck won't be street driven enough to do much self learning. Also figuring out how to make the system play nice with a duraspark distributor.


i would likely keep the offy and 390. unless boost was on the menu.
 
Definitely keeping the Offy, that's why the Killshot Lite is interesting.

The 390 vacuum secondary has been sitting on top of the engine untouched for most a decade. The 390 CFM mechanical secondary unit (an actual 390 "NASCAR" double pumper, that dad modified with a mechanical choke) has been in a box on the shelf for close to 25 years. Either will have to be rebuilt at a minimum, and I don't trust my skills to get them cleaned properly. Even then he was the carburetor tuner and he passed last summer.

Even if I give a go at cleaning myself, or had them sent off for it (I think there is a place close, Carb Junkies?), I'm not sure how well a carb would work with planned usage. If I put it in the drift truck temporarily, it probably won't have enough power to slide good, but still be trying to get sideways. I can't say that boost is off the menu, even though I have no idea what I'm doing with it.

Forced induction and drifting aren't the long term plans for that engine. It's the engine from my first vehiclem and 84 Ranger dad had when I was a kid. Dad originally modded it back in the '80s, and it was my first engine rebuild in the early '00s not too long before I totaled it. I was going to build a fun little hotrod or something like a homebuilt Lotus Seven around it, but that is a long ways off. In the mean time I need to get it out of the totaled truck and get that truck out of the yard. Temporary home in the "drift truck" seems logical. I will have to open it back up, clean and lube everything before trying to fire it off. If I find that it is already hurt beyond a simple fix, I think that I'd rather force air into with some cheap turbos and send it off in glorious fashion than try to rebuild it again.

Sorry @85_Ranger4x4 not meaning to hijack your thread here.
 
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